Gweedore

Gaoth Dobhair Gweedore
—  Parish  —
An aerial view of Gweedore, with Mount Errigal and Magheraclogher beach to be seen.
Gaoth Dobhair Location in Ireland
Coordinates: 55°05′27″N 8°14′08″W / 55.090900°N 8.235626°W / 55.090900; -8.235626Coordinates: 55°05′27″N 8°14′08″W / 55.090900°N 8.235626°W / 55.090900; -8.235626
Country	Ireland
Province	Ulster
County	County Donegal
Government
– Dáil Éireann	Donegal South West
– EU Parliament	North–West
Population (2002)
– Total	4,065
Time zone	WET (UTC+0)
– Summer (DST)	IST (WEST) (UTC-1)
Area code(s)	074 95, +000 353 74 95
Irish Grid Reference	B847228
Website	gweedore.net
Gaoth Dobhair is the only official name. The anglicized spelling Gweedore has no official status.

Gweedore (officially and in Irish: Gaoth Dobhair^[1]) is an Irish-speaking district located on the Atlantic coast of County Donegal, part of the Province of Ulster in Ireland. Gweedore stretches some 16 miles from Meenaclady in the north to Crolly in the south and around 9 miles from Dunlewey in the east to Magheraclogher in the west, and is Europe's most densely populated rural area.^[2][3] It's officially the largest Irish-speaking parish in Ireland with a population of around 4,065,^[4] and is also the home of the northwest regional studios of the Irish language radio service RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta,^[5] as well as an external campus of National University of Ireland, Galway.^[6] Gweedore consists of villages Bunbeg, Derrybeg, Dunlewey, Crolly and Brinalack,^[7] and it sits in the shade of Donegal's tallest peak Mount Errigal.^[8]

Gweedore is known for being a cradle of Irish culture,^[9] with old Irish customs, traditional music, theatre, Gaelic games and the Irish language playing a central and pivotal role in the lives of the local people. This, along with its scenery and many beaches, has made the area a popular tourist destination, especially with visitors from Northern Ireland.^[10] Gweedore lies between Cloughaneely and the Rosses, collectively known locally as the three parishes, together they form a social and cultural region distinct from the rest of the county, with Gweedore serving as the main centre for socialising and industry.^[11][12]

Name

A map of Gweedore, to the left of the red marking.

The name Gweedore or Gaoth Dobhair refers to the Catholic parish of the same name, not to any one village or town. The villages of Bunbeg, Derrybeg, Dunlewey and others are collectively known as Gweedore. Locals consider themselves to be from Gweedore, only citing Derrybeg, Bunbeg etc. as mere postal addresses.^[13]

Gaoth refers to an inlet of the sea at the mouth of the Crolly River, known as An Ghaoth. It is the boundary between Gweedore to the north and The Rosses to the south. Dobhar is an old Irish word for water. Gaoth Dobhair translates as the aqueous estuary.^[14]

Language

The predominantly spoken language of the district is Irish, but English can be heard and understood as well. All schools, religious services and advertisements are through Irish.^[15] Every summer hundreds of students from all over Ireland attend Coláiste Cholmcille (Columcille's College) in order to further their knowledge and understanding of the Irish language.^[16] This is a Gaeltacht area, where the Irish language is the first spoken, providing an unbroken link with millennia of Irish history and culture.

A view of Gweedore from Bloody Foreland.

Since most of the inhabitants of the village are naturally bilingual, it is common to hear English vocabulary used within an Irish sentence and vice versa. A rich subset of unique vocabulary and phrases has arisen from this bilingualism and owing to this, the village has attracted some curious interest from both lexicographers and etymologists in the past. Some examples of these phrases and words are given below, with their standard English definitions:

• Bammy - adj. 1. Eccentric; daft. 2. Of exhibiting anger. [Alteration of the Eng. Barmy.]
• Shy (ball) - n. Used in place of the term 'throw-in' in association football (soccer). [Origin 'shy' in this context is a colloquial English term, meaning 'to throw' or toss, as in funfair Coconut shy.]
• Big wow - adj. pejorative An expression of contempt for an unimpressive action or idea. [Elsewhere used as a positive remark for something fantastic, remarkable]

(All these terms are in common use in the Glasgow area. Many natives of this part of Donegal settled in the west of Scotland and there is still considerable interaction between the two places.)

• ailte or eáilte - Irish suff. Used to form a Gaelicised version of English verbs: wreckailte - tired. [Generally used in the context of an equivalent Irish word either not existing or rendering the sentence form incorrect.]^[17]

History

The Ulster Plantation in 1609 added a twist to the fate of the parish. Irish-speaking families who were driven from their fertile lands in the Lagan and the surrounding areas made their way to the poor boglands of west Donegal. Some of them made it as far as Gweedore and could go no further west. Around the same time, English and Scottish settlers began to arrive, when this uncharted territory was converted to baronies. It appears the parish was very sparsely populated up until the 17th century. The first people to arrive lived on the islands or by the shore in clusters, pockets of houses built close together and in each other's shade. Up until the early 19th century the parish was only lightly populated and it seems the people had an amicable relationship with the landowners.^[18]

Magheragallon Cemetery, Derrybeg.

The standard of life was to deteriorate with the arrival of new landlords in the 19th century, in particular George Hill (1801–1879) and his son Arthur. The people of the parish led by Fr. James McFadden (Irish: Séamus Mac Pháidín), the parish priest in 1875-1901, challenged the landlords with the founding of the Land League and the Plan Of Campaign. The killing by parishioners of District Inspector William Martin (or locally known as An Mháirtínigh) outside the local church, Teach Phobail Mhuire, in Derrybeg on Sunday, the 3 February 1889, while trying to arrest Fr. McFadden with a drawn sword, was the climax of the Land War in Gweedore.^[19] The case was recalled in the 1928 memoirs of Tim Healy, who defended some of the parishioners.^[20]

An Irish-American journalist WH Hurlbert also investigated the landlord-and-tenant dispute in Gweedore in minute detail in his book "Ireland under Coercion", published in 1888.^[21]

Many books have been published in English, but mostly in Irish detailing Gweedore's rich history. One of the most prolific of local historians would be the late Cáit Nic Giolla Bhríde.^[22]

Freak storm

On the afternoon of Tuesday, 23 June 2009, a severe thunderstorm struck Gweedore. It was centered on the adjoining villages of Bunbeg and Derrybeg, and lasted for several hours causing two rivers to burst their banks, flooding houses, shops and factories, ripping up roads and destroying bridges. Lightning which lasted for two hours damaged power lines and caused a major breakdown of mobile phone signals, causing people trapped by the floods to be unable to communicate. Up to 20 houses were cut off from the outside world after three access bridges were carried away by the swollen rivers. ^[23][24]

An aerial view of Gweedore.

Described as the worst storm 'in living memory', it was also the most severe since 1880 when 5 people drowned in Derrybeg. Owing to the highly localised nature of the storm the areas of maximum rainfall missed the network of rain gauges but the Irish Meteorological Service estimate that between 2pm and 6pm up to 60mm of rain fell at the core.^[24][25]

Economy

The main R257 road which runs right through Gweedore, seen here in Derrybeg.

In the 1980s and 1990s, Gweedore had a thriving factory industry, where up to 20 large companies were established producing rubber, carpets, slendertones, and cleaning agents. But in 2001 the companies were dealt a serious blow when most of these companies were destroyed by cheaper Eastern European products. Up to 4,000 dealers were lost, and this affected Gweedore and surrounding areas very badly.^[26] The factory in the townland of Crolly have been manufacturing porcelain dolls since 1939 under the name Crolly Dolls.^[27]

In 2003, the estate was renamed as Páirc Ghnó Ghaoth Dobhair (Gweedore Business Park), and the Gaeltacht body, Údarás na Gaeltachta, started a campaign to try to entice businesses to Gweedore in hope of reviving their lost economic stability. This worked to a certain extent, when Scottish company Contact 4 opened a call centre on the estate, which provided more jobs in the community but subsequently closed. Other businesses include a few supermarkets, convenience stores, beauticians, hairdressers, contractors, garages, Pharmacists, pubs, cafes, and six well-established hotels, Ostan Gweedore, Seaview Hotel, Derrybeg Hotel, Teaċ Jack, An Chúirt Hotel and Foreland Heights.

Education

Áislann Ghaoth Dobhair.

There are five primary schools in Gweedore, in the townlands of Derrybeg, Bunbeg, Mín an Chladaigh, Dobhar, and Luinneach. The only community school (post primary) is Pobalscoil Ghaoth Dobhair, established in Luinneach in 1977, and is managed by headmaster Noel Ó Gallchóir.^[28] All these schools teach their students through the Irish language, and they sit their government exams in Irish. In 2004 National University of Ireland, Galway expanded to Gweedore when they opened Acadamh na hOllscolaíochta Gaeilge,^[29] providing third level education through the Irish language to over 80 students every year. The new state-of-the-art Áislann Ghaoth Dobhair houses the local playschool and library.

Physical features

Gweedore is renowned for its distinct physical features. Probably the most recognisable feature is Errigal, the tallest mountain in County Donegal,^[8] which overshadows the picturesque Dunlewey Lough. It is surrounded by the deep glens and lakes of the Poisoned Glen, and further on, Glenveagh national park and castle, the largest national park in Ireland.^[30] Another landmark is 'Bád Eddie' (Eddie's Boat), Cara Na Mara("Friend of the Sea"), a shipwreck which has been situated on Magherclogher beach since the early 70s where it had run ashore due to rough seas.^[31]

The rugged Gweedore coast, shown here in Bloody Foreland.

The Gweedore coastline consists of long sandy beaches and rugged cliffs. Also, off the Gweedore coastlines are many small islands, including Gola,^[32] and Tory.^[33] In the background a series of mountains, glens and bogs which have combined with the bracing weather to keep this part of the world relatively secluded.

Transport

Gweedore railway station opened on 9 March 1903, closed for passenger traffic on 3 June 1940 and finally closed altogether on 6 January 1947.^[34] Coaches that operate from Gweedore include Collins Coaches Donegal to Glasgow,Feda Ó Dónaill,^[35] Coyle's Coaches,^[36] John McGinley,^[37] Patrick Gallagher Coaches,^[38] and Crónán Mac is available for private hire in the locality.^[39] For many years the Lough Swilly Railway Company provided a bus service for the area, which transported people to places such as Letterkenny and other surrounding parishes.^[40]

• Gweedore Station on the Letterkenny & Burtonport Extension Railway (L&BER), a company jointly owned by the State and the Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway (L&LSR).

Sport

The local GAA clubhouse and grounds with Gweedore and Mount Errigal seen in the background.

Sport plays a very important role in the lives of the local people, sports such as Gaelic football, soccer, golf and various others are exercised religiously by locals both young and old. There is the local Gaelic Athletic Association club CLG Ghaoth Dobhair (Gweedore GAA),^[41] that provides facilities in Machaire Gathlán for young Gaelic football hopefuls, the local golf club and voluntary soccer clubs Gweedore Celtic,^[42] Gweedore United, Glenea United and Dunlewey Celtic that take part in both county and national competitions. The local golf club is at Machaire Gathlán, which is also the home of Cumann na gCurrach, which organises currach races.^[43]

Scottish soccer player Pat Crerand's mother hailed from Gweedore, as did Aiden McGeady's paternal grandparents. Both of them still spend a lot of time in the area.^[44]

Arts & culture

Panoramic view of Magheraclogher beach and Gweedore Bay, also the site of the famous shipwreck, the Cara Na Mara (Friend of the Sea) on the tidal sandbanks. The boat, best known as 'Bád Eddie' (Eddie's Boat), ran ashore due to rough seas in the early 1970s.

Music

Gweedore is famed for its traditional Irish music scene, which is prevalent in local taverns, especially at Hiúdaí Beag's Tavern in Bunbeg.^[45] Gweedore has produced a number of well-known musicians. Clannad were formed in 1972, and have since gone on to sell over 15 million records. Altan (initially Ceoltóirí Altan)^[46] are another band from Gweedore that have put the area on the global stage, they are led by Coshclady fiddler Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh. Gweedore's most successful musician is Enya, born as Eithne Ní Bhraonáin;^[47] she first appeared on stage in Amharclann Ghaoth Dobhair as a member of Clannad, before going on to become one of the world's biggest-selling artists, with sales exceeding 80 million.^[48] Other local singers include Aoife Ní Fhearraigh,^[49] Brídín Brennan,^[50] Na Casaidigh,^[51] Proinsias Ó Maonaigh,^[52] Gearóidín Breathnach, Seamus McGee^[53] and Maria McCool.^[54] The well-known 1970s group Skara Brae also had strong links with the district. There are two active choirs in the area. Cór Mhuire Doirí Beaga, led by Baba Brennan and Eileen Nic Suibhne^[55] and Cór Thaobh 'a Leithid, led by Doimnic Mac Giolla Bhríde.^[56] Both have recorded successful albums.

The popular Frankie Kennedy Winter Music School takes part in Gweedore every new year in memory of the famous Belfast musician who was married to Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh, until he died of cancer in 1994.^[57]

The song "Gleanntáin Ghlas' Ghaoth Dobhair" was written by local musician Francie Mooney, expressing an exile's final farewell to the green valleys of Gweedore. It has become a modern Irish classic and it has been covered by the likes of Clannad, Paul Brady, Dáithí Sproule, The Johnstons and most notably by Altan. Other well-known songs to have come from the area are "Trasna na dTonnta" and "Báidín Fheilimí".

Theatre

Gweedore has a rich history of theatre and drama productions. The local theatre Amharclann Ghaoth Dobhair was constructed in 1961, however, a local theatre group known as Aisteoirí Ghaoth Dobhair (meaning 'Gweedore's actors') had established themselves in 1932.^[58] Their first production was called In Aimsir an Mháirtínigh, an original play by Eoghan Mac Giolla Bhríde which was staged in the parish hall in Derrybeg.^[59] Their plays and pantomimes, which were all staged in Irish, became a staple of Gaeltacht social life, drawing audiences from as far as Belfast and they performed throughout Ireland and Scotland. Members of the theatre group have gone on to create TV shows including CU Burn, and have appeared on Ros na Rún.^[60] It was in these pantomimes that saw all of Gweedore's musical talent make their debuts.^[61] Today, Aisteoirí Ghaoth Dobhair are still active and they performed shows at An Grianán Theatre in Letterkenny as part of the Earagail Arts Festival in 2010 and 2011.^[62]

Religion

The Catholic parish of Gweedore has four churches: Teach Pobal Mhuire or St. Mary's in Derrybeg (built in 1972; after the previous 'old chapel' had flooded on many occasions),^[63] Teach Pobail an Chroí Naofa or Sacred Heart in Dunlewey (built in 1893), Teach Pobail Naomh Pádraig or St. Patrick's in Meenaweel (built in 1938) and finally, Séipéal Cholmcille or Columba's in Bloody Foreland (built in 1933). The only Protestant chapel in Gweedore is St. Patrick's Church of Ireland, situated in Bunbeg.

Place names in Gweedore

Because Gweedore is in the Gaeltacht and partly due to the provisions of the Official Languages Act 2003, while both English and Irish versions of placenames are used, most road signage uses the Irish version exclusively.

A view of Inishinny island.

Alphabetical listing

• Arduns (An tArd Donn)
• Ardnagappery (Ard na gCeapairí)
• Ballindrait (Baile an Droichid)
• Bloody Foreland (Cnoc Fola)
• Brinalack or Brinaleck (Bun an Leaca)

Mount Errigal is one of Gweedore's most significant physical features.

• Bunaninver (Bun an Inbhir)
• Bunbeg (An Bun Beag)
• Carrick (An Charraic)
• Carrickataskin (Carraig an tSeascain)
• Cotteen (Coitín or An Choiteann)
• Crolly (Croichshlí or Croithlí)
• Curransport (Port Uí Chuireáin)
• Derrybeg (Na Doirí Beaga or Doire Beag)

The Poison Glen, situated in the east of Gweedore, near the village of Dunlewey.

A view of Gweedore.

• Dore (Dobhar)
• Dunlewey (Dún Lúiche)
• Glassagh (Glaiseach or An Ghlaisigh)
• Glasserchoo (Glaise Chú)
• Glenhola (Gleann Ualach)
• Glentornan (Gleann Tornáin)
• Knockastolar (Cnoc an Stolaire)
• Lunniagh (Luinneach)
• Magheraclogher (Machaire Chlochair)
• Magheragallon or Magheragallen (Machaire Gathlán)
• Meenacladdy (Mín an Chladaigh)
• Meenacuing (Mín na Cuinge)
• Meenaleck (Mín Na Leice)
• Meenaniller (Mín an Iolair)
• Meenaweel (Mín Uí Bhaoill)
• Middletown (An Baile Láir)
• Sheskinbeg (Seascann Beag)
• Sleghan (An Sloitheán)
• Stranacorkra (Srath na Corcra)
• Torr (An Tor)

Sheep grazing along a road in Meenaclady, a regular sight in Gweedore.

Islands

• Gola (Gabhla)
• Inishmen (Inis Meáin)
• Inishirhir (Inis Oirthear)
• Inishinny (Inis Sionnaigh)
• Umpin (Umthoinn)

• Tory (Toraigh), although not directly situated off the coast of Gweedore, the main ferry crossings are from the area.^[64]

Notable people from Gweedore

• Aoife Ní Fhearraigh, singer
• Breandán de Gallaí, dancer
• Bríd Rodgers, SDLP politician
• Clannad, folk and New Age music group
• Cormac Breslin, former T.D and Ceann Comhairle
• Dinny McGinley, Fine Gael T.D and Minister of State
• Enya, musician and singer
• James Duffy, recipient of the Victoria Cross
• John McCole, soccer player
• Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh, musician and singer
• Moya Brennan, musician and singer
• Patrick O'Donnell, Irish Republican
• Pearse Doherty, Sinn Féin T.D
• Proinsias Ó Maonaigh, musician
• Seán Mac Fhionnghaile, actor
• Tarlach Mac Suibhne, musician
• Vincent Coll, prohibition gangster

See also

• Ulster Irish
• List of towns and villages in Ireland
• Gaeltacht
• Gaoth Dobhair GAA

References

1. ^ Placenames (Ceantair Ghaeltachta) Order 2004 p. 154 (of 155)
2. ^ http://www.donegaldirect.ie/ws_town_details.aspx?Town=Gweedore+(Gaoth+Dobhair)
3. ^ http://www.goireland.com/donegal/gweedore.htm
4. ^ http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/travel/destinations/ireland/article2544786.ece A Lost Weekend in Donegal
5. ^ RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta
6. ^ http://www.donegalcottageholidays.com/towns/holiday-cottage-kincasslagh.php
7. ^ Logainmneacha Ghaoth Dobhair, Tír Chonaill, Éire
8. ^ ^{a b} Gweedore and Mount Errigal
9. ^ http://www.gweedore.net/?p=57
10. ^ http://www.irishabroad.com/Travel/Features/gweedore.asp
11. ^ http://www.donegaldemocrat.ie/news/cloughaneely_1_1986720
12. ^ http://www.letterkennypost.com/2007/05/page/2/
13. ^ http://www.real-ireland.com/page9-donegal
14. ^ Logainmneacha Ghaoth Dobhair, Tír Chonaill, Éire
15. ^ An Chrannóg - Lárionad Gaeilge
16. ^ Coláiste Cholmcille Gaoth Dobhair, Condae Dhún na nGall, Summer courses for irish students
17. ^ http://www.jstor.org/pss/2798880
18. ^ Gweedore Donegal
19. ^ History of Gweedore, Chapter One
20. ^ Healy memoirs online, chapter 22
21. ^ Hurlbert W vol.1, pp.66-122 online text
22. ^ Coiscéim 1996
23. ^ "Horror storms flood west Donegal"
24. ^ ^{a b} Donegal Democrat, Clean up underway after freak flash flood in Gweedore, 24 June 2009
25. ^ Met Service report on the flood
26. ^ RTÉ Business: Downturn forces Donegal factory cutbacks
27. ^ Crolly Dolls History
28. ^ WWW.GAOTHDOBHAIR.COM - Fáilte go Pobalscoil Ghaoth Dobhair
29. ^ http://www.acadamh.ie/ionaid/gaoth_dobhair.html Is ceantar fíor-Ghaeltachta é an ceantar seo agus tá dhá cheantar láidre Gaeltachta eile ar an dá thaobh de, is é sin le rá Gort a' Choirce agus Rann na Feirste
30. ^ Ireland : Active Pursuits : National Parks | Frommers.com
31. ^ rPhotosOnline.com :: Gweedore, Ireland, July 2005 :: Img_0201
32. ^ Gola Island
33. ^ Oileán Thoraí / Tory Island - nine miles off the Donegal coast, North-West Ireland
34. ^ "Gweedore station" (PDF). Railscot - Irish Railways. http://www.railscot.co.uk/Ireland/Irish_railways.pdf. Retrieved 2007-10-15. 
35. ^ Feda O'Donnell Coaches from Donegal to Galway and Donegal to Glasgow
36. ^ Coyles Coaches - Coaches for Hire in Co. Donegal, Ireland
37. ^ John McGinley Coaches
38. ^ Donegal Derry Belfast - Patrick Gallaghers Coaches, Gweedore, County Donegal
39. ^ Letterkenny to Donegal Airport, Donegal Airport Bus, Aerbhus Dhún na nGall
40. ^ Lough Swilly Page
41. ^ Gaoth Dobhair
42. ^ Gweedore Celtic Football Club | CEILTIGH GHAOTH DOBHAIR
43. ^ http://www.donegaldemocrat.ie/news/local/curragh_racing_in_gaoth_dobhair_1_2005186
44. ^ "The Big Interview Aiden McGeady". The Times (London). 1 May 2005. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/sport/football/article387301.ece. Retrieved 4 May 2010. 
45. ^ http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/magazine/2010/0313/1224265920130.html
46. ^ Altan lyrics, music, biography, records, band, album, videos, CD, and the discography including Altan famous works
47. ^ Enya Biography - Read music reviews and compare prices at Yahoo! Shopping
48. ^ http://wordpress.hotpress.com/themusicshow/2009/09/01/nicky-ryan/
49. ^ http://www.aoife.ie/ Gweedore, my home in North West Donegal is the traditional heartland of the county. This Irish speaking area has produced its share of singers and musicians
50. ^ http://www.bridinbrennan.com/about_bridin/index.html The Brennan family, consisting of four brothers and five sisters, grew up in the wild and remote North West town land of Dobhar in Donegal
51. ^ The Cassidys Traditional Irish Music
52. ^ http://beo.ie/index.php?page=archive_content&archive_id=1184 Fógraíodh ag deireadh na míosa seo caite go bhfuil Proinsias Ó Maonaigh as Gaoth Dobhair roghnaithe mar Uachtarán ar Oireachtas na Gaeilge 2004.
53. ^ http://www.seamusmcgee.com/home.htm Gweedore, County Donegal singer, Seamus McGee, has more than a home-place in common with members of the internationally renowned group, Clannad
54. ^ Donegal County.com & Dún na nGall.com - Gaoth Dobhair /Gweedore
55. ^ Moya Brennan : News Archive
56. ^ Donegal County.com ~ Dún-na-ngall.com - Nuacht /News, Vol.7 No.4 June/July, 2006
57. ^ Home - Frankie Kennedy Winter School
58. ^ http://www.donegaldemocrat.ie/news/local/aisteoir_237_ghaoth_dobhair_to_bring_aint_237_n_sh_233_arlais_to_an_grian_225_n_1_2005752
59. ^ http://www.irishplayography.com/search/company.aspx?la=en&companyID=406
60. ^ http://www.modelmayhem.com/2179751
61. ^ http://books.google.com/books/about/Irish_Folk_Harpists.html?id=eiYEcAAACAAJ
62. ^ http://www.culturefox.ie/event/aisteoiri-ghaoth-dobhair/1704.aspx
63. ^ http://www.donegaldemocrat.ie/donegalnews/Cleanup-gets-underway-in-Gweedore.5397213.jp
64. ^ Tory Island Ferry, County Donegal, from Magheroarty and Bunbeg to Oileán Thoráigh

External links

• - DiscoverGweedore.ie. Official website for Gweedore by the Gweedore Tourist & Traders Community group
• Gweedore.net - Your Guide to Gaoth Dobhair ... The Heart and Soul of Donegal
• County Donegal.net & Dún na nGall.com - Gaoth Dobhair/Gweedore