Ardnamurchan

Coordinates: 56°44′N 5°59′W / 56.733°N 5.983°W / 56.733; -5.983

Satellite photo of Ardnamurchan

Ardnamurchan (Scottish Gaelic: Àird nam Murchan: headland of the great seas) is a 50 square miles (130 km²) peninsula in Lochaber, Highland, Scotland, noted for being very unspoilt and undisturbed. Its remoteness is accentuated by the main access route being a single track road for much of its length.

Geography

Strictly speaking Ardnamurchan covers only the peninsula beyond the villages of Salen (in the south) and Acharacle (in the north), but nowadays the term is used much more generally to include the neighbouring districts of Sunart, Ardgour, Morvern, and even Moidart (which was part of the former county of Inverness-shire, not Argyll).

View across Eilean Chaluim Cille bay to Ardnamurchan Point and lighthouse.

Ardnamurchan Point, which has a 36 metres (118 ft) tall lighthouse built on it, is commonly described as the most westerly point of the British mainland although Corrachadh Mòr, a kilometre to the south, is a few metres further west.

Geology

The whole north western corner of Ardnamurchan contains a complex of volcanic structures, often described approximately as a "Caldera". Broadly, this area is the underground structures of a 55 million-year-old volcanic complex (relatively small areas of lavas that were erupted onto the surface are found in some parts of the peninsula). At least 7 other similar complexes of the same tectonic episode are dotted up the west coast of Britain, and so are popular stops in geological training courses from many universities. Geological research continues in the area to this day, as well as training. The sub-concentric rings of the volcanic complex can easily be seen in the satellite photograph, or topographic map, though they are less obvious on the ground.

History

Donaldson equates 'Buarblaig' (now Bourblaige about 5 miles east of Kilchoan on the other side of Ben Hiant, grid reference NM546623^[1]) with Muribulg, where the Annals of Tigernach record a battle between the Picts and Dalriads in 731.^[2] It may also be the 'Muirbole Paradisi' mentioned by Adomnán.^[1] Although its stone foundations still remain, the village of Bourblaige no longer exists, having been subject to destruction during the period of the Highland Clearances in the early nineteenth century.^[3]

Tradition has it that there have been at least two battles in the bays between Gortenfern and Sgeir a' Chaolais, in the northeast of the peninsula across Kentra Bay from Ardtoe. One involved the Vikings, the other may have been fought in 1297 in Cul na Croise between the forces of Edward I and islanders under Roderick of Bute and Lachlan MacRuari of Garmoran.^[4] Relics of a Viking ship burial in Cul na Croise have been given to the West Highland Museum at Fort William.^[4]

In 2011, a Viking ship burial, probably from the 10th century, was unearthed at Port an Eilean Mhòir on Ardnamurchan. Grave goods buried alongside a Viking warrior found in the boat suggest he was a high-ranking warrior. The Ardnamurchan Viking was found buried with an axe, a sword with a decorated hilt, a spear, a shield boss and a bronze ring pin. Other finds in the 5m-long (16ft) grave in Ardnamurchan included a knife, what could be the tip of a bronze drinking horn, a whetstone from Norway, a ring pin from Ireland and Viking Age pottery.^[5]

Administrative divisions

Welcome sign at Kilchoan ferry terminal

The population of the whole peninsula is around 2000. Historically part of the former county of Argyll, it is now part of the Lochaber ward management area of the Highland local authority.

Villages in Ardnamurchan:

• Acharacle (Àth Tharracail)
• Achnaha (Achadh na h-Àtha)
• Glenborrodale (Gleann Bhorghdail)
• Glenmore
• Kilchoan (Cille Chòmhghain)
• Kilmory (Cill Mhóire)
• Laga
• Ockle (Ocal)
• Portuairk (Port Uairce)
• Sanna (Sanna)

Culture

Place names in their original Gaelic are becoming increasingly common on road signs throughout the Scottish Highlands. This sign is located at the top of Salen Brae, in Ardnamurchan.

Ardnamurchan has one of the highest concentrations of Gaelic speakers on the mainland. The Peninsula also has its own shinty team, Ardnamurchan Camanachd.

A Viking Boat was found on this peninsula,and ongoing archaeology is currently being conducted. [1]

Flora and fauna

Rare species such as the wildcat, pine marten, golden eagle and white-tailed eagle can be seen in Ardnamurchan.

Ardnamurchan is widely considered by many who visit it to be one of the most stunning natural parts of the Scottish coast. It is beautiful, utterly wild and unspoilt. The most stunning of all perhaps, is Ardnamurchan Point, adjacent to the furthest westerly point on the British Mainland. Here there is a lighthouse, and in addition, a view from a sheer rock face of the open Atlantic Ocean.

Famous people

One of Ardnamurchan's most famous sons is the button box accordion player, Fergie MacDonald.

Notes and references

1. ^ ^{a b} Site Record for Ardnamurchan, Bourblaige, Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/ 
2. ^ Donaldson, M E M (1923), Wanderings in the Western Highlands and Islands 
3. ^ ScotlandsPlaces - Ardnamurchan, Bourblaige
4. ^ ^{a b} Site Record for Ardnamurchan, Gortenfern, Sgeir A' Chaolais; Gorten Bay, Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/22495/ . The bays of Cul na Croise and Camas an Lighe are in grid reference NM6269.
5. ^ />http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-15333852

External links

• Ardnamurchan Tourist Association
• More about Ardnamurchan