Candy cap

Candy caps
Lactarius camphoratus
Scientific classification
Kingdom:	Fungi
Subkingdom:	Dikarya
Phylum:	Basidiomycota
Subdivision:	Agaricomycotina
Class:	Agaricomycetes
Order:	Russulales
Family:	Russulaceae
Genus:	Lactarius
Species
L. camphoratus L. fragilis L. rubidus

Candy cap or curry milkcap is the English-language common name for several closely related edible species of Lactarius; L. camphoratus, L. fragilis, and L. rubidus. These mushrooms are valued for their highly aromatic qualities and are used culinarily as a flavoring rather than as a vegetable.

Description and classification

Candy caps are small to medium-size mushrooms, with a pileus that is typically under 5 cm in diameter (though L. rubidus and L. rufulus can be slightly larger), and with coloration ranging through various burnt orange to burnt orange-red to orange-brown shades. The pileus shape ranges from broadly convex in young specimens to plane to slightly depressed in older ones; lamellae are attached to subdecurrent. The entire fruiting body is quite fragile and brittle. Like all members of Lactarius, the fruiting body exudes a latex when broken, which in these species is whitish and watery in appearance, and is often compared to whey or nonfat milk. The latex may have little flavor or may be slightly sweet, but should never taste bitter or acrid. These species are particularly distinguishable by their scent, which has been variously compared to maple syrup, camphor, curry, fenugreek, burnt sugar, Malt-O-Meal, or Maggi-Würze. This scent may be quite faint in fresh specimens, but typically becomes quite strong when the fruiting body is dried.

Microscopically, they share features typical of Lactarius, including round to slightly ovular spores with distinct amyloid ornamentation and sphaerocysts that are abundant in the pileus and stipe trama, but infrequent in the lamellar trama.^[1]

Lactarius rubidus

The candy caps have been placed in various infrageneric groups of Lactarius depending on the author. Bon^[2] defined the candy caps and allies as making up the subsection Camphoratini of the section Olentes. Subsection Camphoratini is defined by their similarity in color, odor (with the exception of L. rostratus – see below), and by the presence of macrocystidia on their hymenium. (The other subsection of Olentes, Serifluini, is also aromatic, but have very different aromas from the Camphoratini and are entirely lacking in cystidia.)^[3]

Bon^[2] and later European authors treated all species that were aromatic and had at least a partially epithelial pileipellis as section Olentes, whereas Hesler and Smith^[4] and later North American authors^[5] treat all species with such a pileipellis (both aromatic and non-aromatic) as the section Thojogali. However, a thorough molecular phylogenetic investigation of Lactarius has yet to be published, and older classification systems of Lactarius are generally not regarded as natural.^[3]

Like other species of Lactarius, candy caps are generally thought to be ectotrophic, with L. camphoratus having been identified in ectomycorrhizal root tips. However, unusually for a mycorrhizal species, L. rubidus is also commonly observed growing directly on decaying conifer wood.^[5] All candy cap species seem to be associated with a range of tree species.

The most notable differences between L. camphoratus, L. fragilis, and L. rubidus are as follows:^[4]

	L. camphoratus	L. rubidus	L. fragilis
Pileus shape	papilla sometimes present at disc	papilla or umbo typically not present	umbo sometimes present at disc
Color	darker reddish-brown	more deep reddish-brown ("ferruginous")	lighter reddish-brown to light brown
Lamellae	more light yellowish to light orange	more light reddish	more light reddish
Spores	ellipsoid to subglobose; 7.0–8.5 x 6.0–7.5 µm; ornamentation not connected (spines to short ridges)	subglobose to globose; 6.0–8.5 x 6.0–8.0 µm; ornamentation semi-connected (broken to partial reticulum)	subglobose to globose; 6.0–7.5 x 6.0–7.5 µm; ornamentation connected (partial to complete reticulum)
Odor	more curry-like	more maple-like; strong only upon drying	more maple-like; strong, even when fresh
Distribution	Europe, Asia, eastern North America	western North America; also reported from Costa Rica[6]	eastern North America

Identification

'Candy cap'
Mycological characteristics
	gills on hymenium
	cap is convex or flat
	hymenium is decurrent
	stipe is bare
	spore print is white to yellow
	ecology is mycorrhizal
	edibility: choice

It is possible to mistake other distasteful or toxic species of mushrooms for candy caps or mistakenly include in such species in a larger collection of candy caps. Those inexperienced with mushroom identification may mistake any number of little brown mushrooms ("LBMs") for candy caps, including the deadly galerina (Galerina marginata and allies), which can occur in the same habitat. Candy caps can be distinguished from non-Lactarius species by their brittle stipe, while most other "LBMs" have a more flexible stipe. It is therefore recommended that candy caps be gathered by hand, breaking the fragile stipe in ones fingers. By this method, LBM's with a cartilaginous stipe will easily be distinguished.^[7]

Candy caps may also be confused with any of a large number of small, similarly colored species of Lactarius that may be distasteful to downright toxic depending on the species and the number consumed.

Candy caps may be distinguished from other Lactarius by the following characteristics^{[citation needed]}:

• Odor: Candy caps have a distinctive odor (described above) that should not be present in other species of Lactarius. Note, however, that other species of Lactarius may have different, but also distinctive, odors. Also note that when fresh, candy caps (especially Lactarius rubidus) may not have a noticeable odor, limiting the utility of this characteristic.

• Taste: The flesh and latex of candy caps should always be mild-tasting to somewhat sweet, lacking any hint of bitterness or acridity. Note, however, that there are some species of Lactarius, such as L. luculentus, where the bitterness is subtle and also may not be noticeable for a minute or so after tasting.

• Latex: The latex of candy caps appears thin and whey-like, like milk that has been mixed with water. This latex does not change color nor does it discolor the flesh of the mushroom. Other species of Lactarius have a distinctly white or colored latex, which in some species discolors the flesh of the mushroom.

• Pileus: Candy caps never have a zonate pattern of coloration on the surface of the pileus, nor is the pileus ever even slightly viscid.

Chemistry

Analysis of Lactarius camphoratus showed that it contained 12-hydroxycaryophyllene-4,5-oxide, a caryophyllene compound. However, this was not identified as an aromatic component of this mushroom.^[8]

While none of the candy cap species has been analyzed to identify their aromatic compounds, analysis of L. helvus yielded a large number of aromatic compounds, notably sotolon, which was identified as giving this species its distinct fenugreek odor. Other important volatile compounds identified included decanoic acid and 2-methylbutyric acid.^[9]

Culinary use

Candy caps are not typically consumed as vegetable the way most other edible mushrooms are consumed. Because of the strongly aromatic quality of these mushrooms, they are instead used primarily as a flavoring, much the way vanilla, saffron, or truffles are used. They impart a flavor and aroma to foods that has been compared to maple syrup or curry, but with a much stronger aroma than either of these seasonings. Candy caps are unique among edible mushrooms in that they're often used in sweet and dessert foods, such as cookies and ice cream.^[10] They are also sometimes used to flavor savory dishes that are traditionally prepared with sweet accompaniments, such as pork, and are also sometimes used in place of curry seasoning.

They are usually used in dried form, as the characteristic aroma intensifies greatly upon drying. To use them as a flavoring, the dried mushrooms are either powdered or they are infused into one of liquid ingredients used in the dish, for example, being steeped in hot milk, much the same way whole vanilla beans are.

As a result of these culinary properties, candy caps are highly sought after by many chefs. Lactarius rubidus is commercially gathered and sold in California^[10][11] while L. camphoratus is gathered and sold in the United Kingdom ^[12] and Yunnan Province, China.^[13]

Marchand reports that some individuals use L. camphoratus as part of a pipe tobacco mix.^[14]

Similar species

A number of species of Lactarius are distinctly aromatic, though only some of these species are thought to be closely related to the candy cap group.

The subsection Camphoratini includes Lactarius rostratus, a species found in northern Europe, though quite rare.^[3] Unlike other members of subsection Camphoratini, L. rostratus has an unpleasant (even nauseating) smell, described as resembling ivy. Lactarius cremor is a name sometimes used for mushrooms in this group, however, Heilmann-Clausen, et al.^[3] consider this name to be nomen dubium, referring variously to Lacarius rostratus, L. serifluus, or L. fulvissimus depending on the author's concept of L. cremor. Lactarius mukteswaricus and L. verbekenae, two species described from the Kumaon area of the Indian Himalaya in 2004, are reported to be very closely related to L. camphoratus and L. fragilis, respectively, including in odor.^[15]

Lactarius rufulus is reported by one source as being a "candy cap" species and having a similar odor to the other candy caps,^[7] though earlier monographs do not report such an aroma and describe the flavor as subacrid.

Lactarius helvus and L. aquifluus, found in Europe and North America, respectively, are also strongly aromatic and similar to candy caps, the former having the odor of fenugreek. Lactarius helvus is known to be mildly toxic, causing gastrointestinal upset. The edibility of L. aquifluus is unknown, but as it is a close relative of L. helvus, it is suspected of being toxic.^[16]

Lactarius glyciosmus and L. cocosiolens both have a distinct coconut odor.^[5][17] L. glyciosmus, however, has a subacrid flavor, though it is reported as having been gathered commercially in Scotland.^[18]

See also

Fungi portal

• List of Lactarius species

References

1. ^ Largent DL, Baroni TJ. 1988. How to Identify Mushrooms to Genus VI: Modern Genera. Arcata, CA: Mad River Press. ISBN 0-916-422-76-3. p 73–74.
2. ^ ^{a b} Bon M. 1983. Notes sur la systématique du genre Lactarius. Documents Mycologiques 13(50): 15–26.
3. ^ ^{a b c d} Heilmann-Clausen J, Verbeken A, Vesterholt J. 1998. The Genus Lactarius. (Fungi of Northern Europe, Volume 2.) Mundelstrup, DK: Danish Mycological Society. ISBN 87-983581-4-6.
4. ^ ^{a b} Hesler LR, Smith AH. 1979. North American Species of Lactarius. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press. ISBN 0-472-08440-2.
5. ^ ^{a b c} Methven AS. 1997. The Agaricales of California 10. Russulales II: Lactarius. Eureka, CA: Mad River Press. ISBN 0-916422-85-2.
6. ^ Mueller GM, Halling RE, Carranza J, Mata M, Schmit JP. 2006. Saprotrophic and ectomycorrhizal macrofungi of Costa Rican oak forests. In: M. Kappelle (ed). Ecology and conservation of neotropical montane oak forests. (Ecological Studies Series, Vol. 185). Berlin: Springer Verlag. p 55–68 (p 62). doi:10.1007/3-540-28909-7_5 ISBN 978-3-540-28908-1.
7. ^ ^{a b} Campbell D. 2004. The candy cap complex. Mycena News 55(3):3–4. (scroll down)
8. ^ Daniewski WM, Grieco PA, Huffman JC, Rymkiewicz A, Wawrzun, A. 1981. Isolation of 12-hydroxycaryophyllene-4,5-oxide, a sesquiterpene from Lactarius camphoratus. Phytochemistry. 20(12):2733–4. doi:10.1016/0031-9422(81)85276-4.
9. ^ Rapior S, Fons F, Bessiere J-M. 2000. The fenugreek odor of Lactarius helvus. Mycologia 92(2): 305–308. doi:10.2307/3761565.
10. ^ ^{a b} Treviño L. 2004 Jan 9. "Candy Caps let people flavor foods — with fungus: Mushrooms are in cookies and ice cream". San Francisco Chronicle.
11. ^ Jung C. 2004 Jan 28. "The rare fungus that can satisfy your sweet tooth". San Jose Mercury. (Archived at Wayback Machine),
12. ^ Kirby T. 2006 Sep 27. "The British fascination with fungi: The magic of the curry mushroom". The Independent.
13. ^ Wang X-H. 2000. (A taxonomic study on some commercial species in the genus Lactarius (Agaricales) From Yunnan Province, China.) Acta Botanica Yunnanica 22(4):419–427. (Article in Chinese. English abstract.)
14. ^ Marchand A. 1980. Champignons du Nord et du Midi 6: Lactaires et Pholiotes. Perpignan, FR: Diffusion Hachette. ISBN 2903940037.
15. ^ Das K, Sharma, JR, Montoya L. 2004. Lactarius (Russulaceae) in Kumaon Himalaya 1: New species of subgenus Russularia. Fungal Diversity 16:23–33. (Abstract.)
16. ^ Phillips R. 2006. Lactarius aquifluus. Roger's Mushrooms (website). Accessed 2008 Feb 11.
17. ^ Russulales News Team. 2007. Lactarius glyciosmus. Russulales News (website). Accessed 2008 Feb 11.
18. ^ Milliken W, Bridgewater S. nd. Scottish plant uses: Lactarius glyciosmus. Flora Celtica online database, Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh. Accessed 2008 Feb 11.

• Arora D. (1986). Mushrooms Demystified (2nd ed). Berkeley, CA: Ten Speed Press. ISBN 0-89815-169-4

External links

• From North American species of Lactarius by L. R. Hesler and Alexander H. Smith, 1979:
  • Lactarius fragilis var. fragilis: page 503 page 504
  • Lactarius fragilis var. rubidus: page 505 page 506
  • Lactarius camphoratus: page 506 page 507 page 508
• From MushroomExpert.Com by Michael Kuo:
  • "Lactarius fragilis", February 2004.
  • "Lactarius rubidus", February 2004.
  • "Lactarius camphoratus", March 2005.
• "California Fungi: Lactarius rubidus" by Michael Wood & Fred Stevens, MykoWeb.com, 2001
• "Fungus of the Month for October 2005: Lactarius rubidus, candy caps" by Tom Volk.
• "Why we’re wild about the curry mushroom" by Martyn McLaughlin, The Herald, September 28, 2006.
• "Bay Area Mushrooms: Lactarius rubidus and Lactarius rufulus: The Candy Cap" by Debbie Viess, BayAreaMushrooms.org, 2007