- Capillary wave
A capillary wave is a
wave travelling along the interface between two fluids, whose dynamics are dominated by the effects ofsurface tension .Capillary waves are common innature and home, and are often referred to as ripple. Thewavelength of capillary waves is typically less than a few centimeters.A gravity–capillary wave on a fluid interface is influenced by both the effects of surface tension and gravity, as well as by the fluid
inertia .Capillary waves, proper
The
dispersion relation for capillary waves is:where "ω" is the
angular frequency , "σ" thesurface tension , "ρ" thedensity of the heavier fluid, "ρ"' the density of the lighter fluid and "k" thewavenumber . Thewavelength isGravity–capillary waves
In general, waves are also affected by gravity and are then called gravity–capillary waves. Their dispersion relation reads, for waves on the interface between two fluids of infinite depthcite book | first=H. | last=Lamb | authorlink=Horace Lamb | year=1994 | title=Hydrodynamics | publisher=Cambridge University Press | edition=6th edition| isbn=9780521458689 §267, page 458–460.] [cite book | title=Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms | first=M. W. |last=Dingemans | year=1997 | series=Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering | volume=13 | publisher=World Scientific, Singapore | pages=2 Parts, 967 pages | isbn=981-02-0427-2 Section 2.1.1, p. 45.cite book| first=O.M. | last=Phillips | title=The dynamics of the upper ocean |publisher=Cambridge University Press | year=1977 | edition=2nd edition | isbn=0-521-29801-6 Section 3.2, p. 37.] :
:
where "g" is the acceleration due to gravity, "ρ" and "ρ‘" are the
mass density of the two fluids ("ρ > ρ‘").Gravity wave regime
For large wavelengths (small "k = 2π/λ"), only the first term is relevant and one has
gravity waves .In this limit, the waves have agroup velocity half thephase velocity : following a single wave's crest in a group one can see the wave appearing at the back of the group, growing and finally disappearing at the front of the group.Capillary wave regime
Shorter (large "k") waves (e.g. 2 mm), which are proper capillary waves, do the opposite: an individual wave appears at the front of the group, grows when moving towards the group center and finally disappears at the back of the group. Phase velocity is two thirds of group velocity in this limit.
Phase velocity minimum
Between these two limits, an interesting and common situation occurs when the dispersion caused by gravity cancels out the dispersion due to the capillary effect. At a certain wavelength, the group velocity equals the phase velocity, and there is no dispersion. At precisely this same wavelength, the phase velocity of gravity-capillary waves as a function of wavelength (or wave number) has a minimum. Waves with wavelengths much smaller than this critical wavelength "λc" are dominated by surface tension, and much above by gravity. The value of this wavelength is:
::
For the
air –water interface, "λc" is found to be 1.7 cm.Derivation
As
Richard Feynman put it, "... [water waves] , which are easily seen by everyone and which are used as an example of waves in elementary courses... are the worst possible example... they have all the complications that waves can have". [ R.P. Feynman, R.B. Leighton, and M. Sands "The Feynman lectures on physics" Addison-Wesley 1963. Section 51-4.] The derivation of the general dispersion relation is therefore quite involved (see e.g. Ref. [ Samuel Safran "Statistical thermodynamics of surfaces, interfaces, and membranes" Addison-Wesley 1994.] for a more detailed description.)Therefore, first the assumptions involved are pointed out. There are three contributions to the energy, due to gravity, to
surface tension , and tohydrodynamics . The first two are potential energies, and responsible for the two terms inside the parenthesis, as is clear from the appearance of "g" and "σ". For gravity, an assumption is made of the density of the fluids being constant (i.e., incompressibility), and likewise "g" (waves are not high for gravitation to change appreciably). For surface tension, the deviations from planarity (as measured by derivatives of the surface) are supposed to be small. Both approximations are excellent for common waves.The last contribution involves the kinetic energies of the fluids, and is the most involved. One must use a hydrodynamic framework to tackle this problem. Incompressibility is again involved (which is satisfied if the speed of the waves is much less than the speed of sound in the media), together with the flow being
irrotational — the flow is then
potential; again, these are typically good approximations for common situations. The resulting equation for the potential (which isLaplace equation ) can be solved with the proper boundary conditions. On one hand, the velocity must vanish well below the surface (in the "deep water" case, which is the one we consider, otherwise a more involved result is obtained, see Ocean surface waves.) On the other, its vertical component must match the motion of the surface. This contribution ends up being responsible for the extra "k" outside the parenthesis, which causes all regimes to be dispersive, both at low values of "k", and high ones (except around the one value at which the two dispersions cancel out.)ext{e}^{-|k|z}, omega a, sin, heta.end{align}
Then the contributions to the wave energy, horizontally integrated over one wavelength "λ = 2π/k" in the "x"–direction, and over a unit width in the "y"–direction, become [Lamb (1994), §230.] :
:
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