Mount Vancouver

Mount Vancouver
Mount Vancouver
Mount Vancouver is located in Alaska
Mount Vancouver
Location in Alaska/Yukon
Elevation 4,812 m (15,787 ft) [1]
Prominence 2,712 m (8,898 ft) [2]
Listing List of Ultras in Canada List of Ultras in the United States
Location
Location Yukon, Canada / Yakutat City and Borough, Alaska, USA
Range Saint Elias Mountains
Coordinates 60°21′31.2″N 139°41′52.2″W / 60.358667°N 139.697833°W / 60.358667; -139.697833Coordinates: 60°21′31.2″N 139°41′52.2″W / 60.358667°N 139.697833°W / 60.358667; -139.697833[1]
Topo map NTS 115B/05
Climbing
First ascent July 5, 1949[3]
Easiest route Major Expedition

Mount Vancouver is the eighth highest mountain in Canada and is located in Kluane National Park and Reserve on the Canada-US border. Mt. Vancouver has three summits: north, middle and south with middle being the lowest. The south summit borders Canada and the United States and is known as Good Neighbor Peak. While conventional wisdom indicates that the north summit is the highest, discrepancies in topographic maps of the area muddle the question. Older Canadian maps indicate that north is the highest but newer US maps based on GPS, show the south summit higher. However, the US maps do not show the north summit.[1]

The mountain was named by W. H. Dall in 1874 after George Vancouver, who explored the southeast coast of Alaska from 1792 to 1794.[3]

Notable Ascents

  • 1949 North Buttress (northwest ridge): FA of mountain by William Hainsworth, Alan Bruce-Robertson, Bob McCarter, Noel Odell; with Walter Wood in support.[4]
  • 1975 Northeast Ridge (to north peak), FA by Cliff Cantor, Bab Dangel, Paul Ledoux, Rob Milne, Hal Murray, Bob Walker, John Yates and Barton DeWolf.[5]
  • 1977 West Face, FA by John Lauchlan, John Calvert, Trevor Jones and Mike Sawyer.[6]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c "Mount Vancouver". Bivouac.com. http://www.bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=237. Retrieved 2004-07-09. 
  2. ^ Ultra-Prominences in the Yukon
  3. ^ a b U.S. Geological Survey Geographic Names Information System: Mount Vancouver
  4. ^ Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the Limits, The Story of Canadian Mountaineering. Calgary, Alberta, Canada: Rocky Mountain Books. pp. 139. ISBN 0-921102-59-3. 
  5. ^ DeWolf, Barton (1976). "Mount Vancouver, Northeast Ridge". American Alpine Journal 1976 (New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club) 20 (50): 462–463. ISBN 978-0-930410-73-5. 
  6. ^ Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the Limits, The Story of Canadian Mountaineering. Calgary, Alberta, Canada: Rocky Mountain Books. pp. 318. ISBN 0-921102-59-3. 



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