Lastovo

Infobox Islands
name = Lastovo

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image caption = Lastovo
image size =
locator

native name =
native name link = Croatian
nickname =
location = Adriatic sea
coordinates = coord|42|45|N|16|52|E|display=inline,title
archipelago = Central Dalmatian
total islands =
major islands =
area = 46 km²
length =
width =
coastline =
highest mount = Hum
elevation = 417 m
country = Croatia
country admin divisions title = County
country admin divisions = Dubrovnik-Neretva
country capital city =
country largest city = Lastovo
country largest city population = 835
country leader title =
country leader name =
population = 835
population as of = 2001
density = 18.15
ethnic groups = 93% Croats
additional info =

Lastovo (Italian: "Lagosta", German: "Augusta", Latin: "Augusta Insula", Greek: "Ladestanos", Illyrian: "Ladest") is an island, town municipality in the Dubrovnik-Neretva county in Croatia. The municipality consists of 46 islands with a total population of 835 people, of which 93% are ethnic Croats, and a land area of approximately 56 km² (22 mi²).cite web
url = http://www.dzs.hr/default_e.htm
title = Official Croatian Census (2001)
accessdate = 2006-07-02] The biggest island in the municipality is also named Lastovo, as is the largest town. The majority of the population lives on the 46 km² island of Lastovo.

Lastovo, like the rest of Roman Dalmatia province, was settled by Illyrians. The Romans conquered and settled the entire area, retaining control until the Avar invasions and Slavic migrations in the 7th century. The Croat tribes secured most of the Dalmatian seaboard. Sometime around the year 1000 the Venetians attacked and destroyed the settlement, due to the island's participation in piracy along the Adriatic coast. In the 13th century, Lastovo joined the Dubrovnik Republic where for several centuries it enjoyed a certain level of autonomy until the republic's conquest by the French, under Napoleon. Austria then ruled the island for the next century, then Italy, until it finally became a part of Croatia.

The island is noted for its 15th- and 16th-century architecture. There is a large number of churches of relatively small size, a testament to the island's long-standing Roman Catholic tradition. The major cultural event is the Poklade, or carnival. The island largely relies on its natural beauty and preservation to attract tourists each season. Currently, the Croatian Government is preparing a bill to make the island and its archipelago a nature park.

Geography

The island of Lastovo belongs to the central Dalmatian archipelago. Thirteen kilometers south of Korčula, the island is one of the most remotely inhabited in the Adriatic. Other islands in this group include Vis, Brač, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. The dimensions of the island are approximately 9.8 km (6 mi) long by up to 5.8 km (3.6 mi) wide. cite book
last = Belamarić
first = Jurica
year = 1985
title = Vodič Lastova
publisher = Logos
location = Split
id = OCLC 16890326]

The Lastovo archipelago contains a total of 46 islands, including the larger islands Sušac, Prežba, Mrčara and an island group called Lastovnjaci on the eastern side. Prežba is connected to the main island by a bridge at the village of Pasadur ("passage" in the local dialect). The island has a daily hydrofoil service and ferry ("trajekt") service linking it to the mainland at Split and stopping along the way at Korčula and Hvar.

The town of Lastovo is spread over the steep banks of a natural amphitheatre overlooking a fertile field, facing away from the sea. This is unusual compared to other Adriatic islands, which are normally harbour side. Other settlements on the island include the villages of Ubli (also known as Sveti Petar), Lučica, Zaklopatica, Skrivena Luka, and Pasadur.

Despite major fires in 1971 and 1998, about 70% of Lastovo is covered with forest, mostly Holm Oaks and Aleppo Pines and Mediterranean underbrush. [Ozimec , Roman. [http://www.vlada.hr/Bulletin/2003/january/life-culture3.htm Lastovo - Islands of tranquility] Croatian Government Bulletin. Retrieved on 5 August 2006.] There are rich communities of falcon and hawk nests. These used to be exploited by the Dubrovnik Republic for falconry and traded to other kingdoms, especially to Naples in the Middle Ages. The underwater life is the richest in the entire Adriatic, featuring lobsters, crayfish, octopus and many high prized fish such as John Dory and Groupers. There are no poisonous snakes on the island.

Landscape and coastline

Lastovo has a dynamic landscape consisting of 46 hills and 46 karstic fields that often contain layers of red soil and quartz sand. The highest point is Hum at 417 m (1368 ft) and there are another three hills higher than 400 m (1300 ft), Pleševo Brdo, Gumanca and Mali Hum and another thirteen other hills higher than 200 m (650 ft). Its dolomitic valleys are located between limy hills and mild calcareous slopes rich in caves. There are five caves on the island — Rača (the largest), Puzavica, Pozalica, Grapčeva and Medvidina.cite book
last = Jurica
first = Antun
year = 2001
title = Lastovo kroz stoljeća
publisher = Matica hrvatska Ogranak Lastovo
location = Lastovo
id = ISBN 953-97232-3-X ]

The coastline is mainly steep and the surrounding sea is deep. On the southern coast is a large, deep bay at Skrivena Luka which offers protection from the bura and westerly winds. The other main deep port is located on the western side at Ubli which is where the main ferry port for the island is located.

Climate

Lastovo possesses all the basic characteristics of the Mediterranean climate, dominated by mild, moist winters and warm, long, and dry summers. The island receives around 2,700 sun hours per year, ranking it among one of the sunniest in the Adriatic and pleasant for tourists. This produces a water temperature around 27°C (80°F) in summer. Annual rainfall is approximately 650 mm (25.6 in). Since there are no permanent surface water streams, residents rely on bores or dams and a fixed water connection to the mainland.

History

Prehistory and antiquity

The island was first mentioned by 6th century lexicographer Stephen from Byzantium who called it "Ladesta" and "Ladeston". His source was Theopompus, a 4th century BC Greek historian. The names of numerous other Illyric settlements along the coast had the same suffix "-est" which indicates its Illyric origins. When the Romans conquered Dalmatia they gave the island the Latin name "Augusta Insula" meaning "emperors island". During the Middle Ages the name would be transcribed as "Augusta", "Lagusta" or "Lagosta". The Slavic suffix "-ovo" combined with the Roman form of "Lasta" gives the islands present name of "Lastovo".

The first traces of human presence on the island were found in the Rača cave where continuous evidence of habitation reaches as far as the late Neolithic Age. In prehistoric times the island was inhabited by the Illyrians. However finds of Greek ceramics show that the island was on one of the Greek trade routes on the Adriatic and probably a part of the state of Issa.

When the Romans conquered the province of Dalmatia they too settled Lastovo. The Romans named the island "Augusta Insula". The Romans left very clear traces of their long rule on the island, the so called "villae rusticae" (residential farming units) or the water catchment areas known as the "lokve" are amongst other monuments that remain. The Romans established a settlement on location of today's village Ubli that flourished during first centuries AD, only to become completely desolate in later centuries.

Middle Ages

With the arrival of the Slavs to Adriatic in the 7th century, Croats eventually settled most of Dalmatia which included Lastovo. Around 950, the Byzantine emperor Constantine VII Porphyrogenitos mentions Lastovo in his "De Administrando Imperio" by its Slavic name "Lastobon".cite book
last = Constantine VII
year = ca. 950
title = De Administrando Imperio] In the year 998 the Venetian Doge Pietro Orseolo II took massive operations against Croatian and Neretvian pirates along the Adriatic and its islands, which culminated with the destruction of the town of Lastovo. After this "Lastovci" decided to build a city on the internal hill away from the coast which made the city more defendable. During the next two centuries inhabitants dedicated themselves more to agriculture and neglected their earlier naval tradition. Scarcity of accurate historical documents and an almost complete silence covering the events on the island in the early Middle Ages are trustworthy signs of a great autonomy of Lastovo in that period. Lastovo may have at times come briefly under various rulers from the 7th–13th centuries, whether Byzantine, Dukljan or Neretvian, however, it is accepted that Lastovo generally recognised the Croatian kings as its nominal and natural rulers. In 1185 the Hvar diocese is formed of which Lastovo is mentioned as having been part. A church synod held in Split that same year decreed that the diocese of Hvar should fall under the authority of the Archbishop of Split.

Republic of Ragusa

Later in the 13th century the people of Lastovo voluntarily joined the Republic of Ragusa in 1252 after the republic promised that it would honour Lastovo's internal autonomy . This agreement was codified in the Ragusa Statute written in 1272.cite book
last = Lucijanović
first = Marin
year = 1954
title = Lastovo u sklopu Dubrovačke republike
publisher =
location = ] In 1310 Lastovo got its first written legislation, the "Statute of Lastovo", which had all the characteristics of law. The supreme authority on the island had a council consisting of 20 members who held office for life.cite book
last = Cvitanić
first = Antun
coauthors = Josip Lučić
year = 1994
title = Lastovski statut
publisher = Splitski književni krug
location = Split
id = ISBN 953-163-003-8] In 1486 authorities of the Council were passed in Parliament of the Republic and the island lost much of its autonomy. Continuous limitation of the island's autonomy and higher taxes led to a short lived rebellion in 1602. On the appeal of islanders, Venice occupied the island the following year and held it until 1606, when it was returned to Ragusa. The next attempt at rebellion was in 1652, which resulted in the loss of the island's autonomy.

During the Ottoman conquests, Lastovo was very often a target of pirates from Ulcinj, leading to the introduction of mandatory guard service. Guard service was abolished in the 18th century when pirates from Ulcinj became merchant sailors. The last reported outbreak of "vampirism" in Croatia was 'recorded' on Lastovo. The trial in Ragusa in 1737 took testimony from visitors to the island during an outbreak of "severe diarrhoea" which killed many locals. The islanders blamed this epidemic on vampires. This case included from Lastovo the defendants who formed a band or group of vigilante style vampire hunters. Such cases were reported throughout all of Croatia and indeed Europe in the Middle Ages.

19th century

In 1806 the French took control of Dubrovnik Republic, later abolishing it. Lastovo became part of the French Empire. The French built a fortification on Glavica hill and mobilised islanders against the British. The British took the island in 1813 and held the island until 1815 when in the Berlin congress the island became part of Habsburg Empire. During this period Lastovo was part of Dubrovnik county in Dalmatia province controlled by Austria. Until 1829 it had independent court legislation, but later the island fell under the jurisdiction of the court in Korčula. In the 1840s, the municipality fell in deep economic crisis and was pushed to sell most of its forests to foreigners.

20th century

During World War I the Austro-Hungarian army established a military garrison on Glavica. The fort consisted troops mostly of Hungarian ethnicity which were stationed on the island. Authorities ordered blackouts and forbid church bells to ring during the war. At the end of 1917 Lastovo was bombed by four French planes. Soon the French landed on the island for intelligence purposes. The Italians soon followed and clashed with guards. Some managed to escape, but those who were caught were taken to Italy as prisoners of war. News that the war was finally over was delivered by a French plane dropping leaflets on the island on 4 November. Italian troops on 11 November 1918 occupied the island based on the 1915 Secret Treaty of London which recognised much of Dalmatia to Italy upon Italy entering the war on the side of the triplice alliance. The Italians claims were based upon the presence of ethnic Italians in all the maritime Dalmatia. But the treaty was refused by the U.S. President Woodrow Wilson, who was a supporter of the nationality principle.

As a consequence only Zara (today Zadar), due to its Italian majority was incorporated to Italy, with the Rapallo agreement of 1920. 'Lagosta' was an exception and it seems that it was assigned to Italy just for strategic reasons: if on one side there was an Italian minority, on the other side it was smaller than in other Dalmatian places, like Vis (Lissa). After the advent of Fascism in Italy (1922), a politic of Italianization of all the "foreign" identities was started. As a consequence the Croatian schools and press were closed, and Italian became the only official language. On the other side there was a growth in the living standards. Many public works were started, and the island reached its peak population of approximately 2,000. This growth was also provoked by the immigration of ethnic Italians, from other Dalmatian towns, who wished to live under the Italian rule.

In 1941 the Axis Powers moved war to Yugoslavia, that collapsed in few days. Part of Dalmatia was annexed to Italy, and remaining part was incorporated in the new Independent State of Croatia. All the former Yugoslavia was devastated by a cruel (ethnic and politic ) civil war, and by another war of resistance against the Axis Powers. In September 8, 1943 after declaration of the Armistice with Italy, Italian Army collapsed and the partisans of Tito took over the island that was incorporated into Yugoslavia. The partisans executed Martin Tomasin who had been appointed governor by Italian Dictator Benito Mussolini who considered Tomasin a friend. The allegation of spying on the local partisans may have been a trumped up charge. His trial was reported in the local newspaper. Lastovo became a part of the People's Republic of Croatia in 1945—one of the six Republics of the Federal People's Republic of Yugoslavia and into the Socialist Republic of Croatia — one of the republics of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia in 1953.All the Italian residents left the Island, ending their secular presence.

After World War II, Lastovo experienced the same fate as the neighbouring island Vis: being reserved for the army, foreign nationals were forbidden to visit the island, leading to economic stagnation and the depopulation of the island. In 1988 the ban was lifted and foreign tourists were again allowed to visit the island.Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, however the Yugoslav People's Army finally left their military bases on Lastovo in July 1992 as one of its last footholds in Croatia. The war in Croatia ended in 1995, and Lastovo escaped much of the devastation that swept across the rest of Croatia and Bosnia. Still due to war and economic crisis in the country, Lastovo experienced a further population decline from 1205 people in 1991 to 835 people in 2001.

Demographics

According to the 2001 census, the municipality of Lastovo has a population of 835 people with 451 people in the town of Lastovo. The 835 Lastovci formed in 291 private households with an average of 2.7 people per household, lower than the 3.0 person per household national average. The average age of the people of the Lastovo municipality was 40 years old, slightly older than the national average of 39 years old. About 91% of the people of the Lastovo municipality are Roman Catholics and 93% are Croats. The highest level of education for 44% of the municipality was secondary school, for 13% it was college or university.

Economy

Like many of the Mediterranean islands, the Lastovo economy is centred around agriculture and tourism. The 2003 Agricultural Census reported that the municipality had 57 ha (141 acres) of land used for agriculture. Of this 25 ha (61 acres) were vineyards and over 9000 olive trees grew in Lastovo. [Central Bureau of Statistics, Republic of Croatia. [http://www.dzs.hr/default_e.htm Croatian Agricultural Census (2003). Retrieved on 5 August 2006.] Following decades of isolation from foreigners, due to the Yugoslav National Army activities and the Croatian War of Independence (1991-1995), the island has become attractive to tourists partly because it has remained largely undeveloped; even supplying the island with fresh water has been difficult. [Glamuzina, Martin, et al. (2002). [http://www.io-warnemuende.de/homepages/schernewski/Littoral2000/docs/vol3/Littoral2002_28.pdf The Water Supply of the Middle Dalmatian Islands (Croatia) – Regional Water Supply-System Neretva-Pelješac-Korčula-Lastovo-Mljet] . Littoral 2002, The Changing Coast.] However, groups like Spasimo Lastovo are wary of mass tourism and are advocating Nature Park status for the island and its archipelago. [Duncan, Emma (August 2004). [http://www.peopleandplanet.net/doc.php?id=2301 The new Riviera? No, the old Mediterranean.] People and Eco-tourism. Retrieved on 5 August 2006. The island became a natural park in 2006.]

Culture

Poklad

The most important event on the island is an authentic carnival that the locals call the Poklad. All the island residents participate by wearing folk costumes. The origins of the Lastovo carnival go back to an historical event. Legend has it that Catalan pirates attacked neighbouring Korčula and sent a Turkish messenger to Lastovo to tell the islanders to surrender or they would be next. The inhabitants of Lastovo did not let themselves be intimidated — instead they armed themselves and went on the attack. The women and children prayed to Sv. Jure "(St. George)" for help and their prayers were answered: a storm destroyed the pirates' ships and the inhabitants of Lastovo caught the messenger. In order to mock him, he was taken through the village on the back of a donkey and was afterwards sentenced and burned to death. This event is celebrated through the Poklad every year over a period of three days. The event takes place in the middle of February and since the summer 2006 it has become main attraction for tourists. Locals enjoy this event very much and Lastovci from all around Croatia return to Lastovo to attend the carnival. [cite web
url = http://www.adriatica.net/croatia/feature/lastovo_en.htm
title = Lastovo - Carnival Island
accessdate = 2006-07-04
publisher = Adriatica.net Permission was granted by the website to publish the text under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License.]

Churches

The main church is the church of Sv Kuzma i Damjan "(Saint Cosmas and Damian)". It is situated in the oldest part of the square in the town of Lastovo and dates from the 14th century. On the main altar is the painting of Saint Cosmas and Damian. Out of the rest of the paintings "Pieta", the work of an anonymous Venetian painter from 1545, can be distinguished. On its place there was a smaller church that dates back from 5th or 6th century. The church of Saint Vlaho from the 12th century is on the entrance of the settlement. Beside it the chapel of Saint John was built in 1607, and around the church a defence wall and a tower.

On the graveyard on the southern edge is the little church of Saint Mary in the field from the 14th century and is considered as most attractive on the island. Near the ferry port in Ubli an archaeological find of the remains of a 6th century church dedicated to Sv Petar "(Saint Peter)" are situated. Other churches of interest are Sv Luka "(St Luke)" built in the typical Croatian 11th century sacral architecture, and Sv Jurje "(St George)" at Prežba also built in the 11th century, was demolished between the two World Wars. Another church called St Peter in Ubli built somewhere in the 11th–13th centuries was also unfortunately demolished by the Italians in 1933 to make way for extra fishing sheds. All together there are a total of 46 churches, making the number 46 omnipresent since the island also has 46 hills, covers 46 square kilometres, has 46 fields, and contains 46 islands in the archipelago.

Architecture

The town's buildings date mainly from the 15th and 16th centuries when the construction of about 20 Renaissance houses redefined the village's appearance. Most of them have high broad terraces which have become the "trade mark" look of Lastovo houses. Their unusual cylindrical chimneys that the locals call "fumari" are picturesque and unusual since they look like miniature minarets, although there is no record of Arab or Turkish influence ever directly reaching this area. The ornate chimney on the 16th century Biza Antica house is probably the oldest preserved chimney in Dalmatia. The lighthouse built on Lastovo's southern tip in 1839 predates all other lighthouses in Croatia.

Language

Inhabitants speak the Čakavian dialect of the Croatian language, maintaining a unique Jekavian variant possibly due to the influence from hundreds of years of association within the Dubrovnik Republic and also due to the island's remoteness. The first mentioned inhabitants of Lastovo were recorded in the 13th century Dubrovnik archives and the "Statute of Lastovo", written in Italian and Latin, which clearly indicates that most of the population had exclusively Croatian folk names. Since antiquity the only religion on the island has been that of Roman Catholicism, hence; The latin names of certain settlements still present.The Italian minority, present until 1945 spoke the Italian dialect of Dubrovnik (Raguseo).

Notable Lastovci

* Dobrić Dobričević "(Bonino de Bonini)", one of the pioneers of printing in Europe. Born in 1454 and printed in Venice, Verona, Brescia and Lyon. Printed works included works of the ancient classics Tibullis, Catullus, Propertius, Virgil, Plutarch and Aesop as well as Dante's "Divine Comedy". His works were considered among the best examples of printing of his time. Died in Treviso in 1528.cite book
last = Novak
first = Slobodan P.
year = 1987
location = Zagreb
title = Dubrovnik Revisited
id = ISBN 86-329-0017-X]
* Tony Šantić, owner of the record three-time Melbourne Cup winner racehorse Makybe Diva, Australia's most prestigious horse race. Tony Šantić is also a successful tuna fisherman with large operations in South Australia and Croatia.
* Anselmo Antica, a visionary Benedictine of the 18th century who counseled in vain for the Republic of Dubrovnik to establish official diplomatic relations with the United States. Later, the Dubrovnik Republic eventually became the first state to recognise the United States as a sovereign state.

References

External links

* [http://www.lastovo-tz.net Lastovo Tourist Office]
* [http://www.croatiatraveller.com/southern_dalmatia/Lastovo.htm Lastovo Island Travel Guide]
* [http://www.world66.com/europe/croatia/island_lastovo/history History of Lastovo]
* [http://www.lastovo.net/ Lastovo.net]
* [http://www.lastovo-augusta.net/ Lastovo-Augusta.net]
* [http://www.dalmatien-tourist.eu/ Lastovo Tourist]
* [http://www.podanje.com/ Lastovo - First farm household ]
* [http://www.kaleta.hr/izleti.html / Travel to Lastovo ]