Amarkantak

Infobox Indian Jurisdiction
native_name = Amarkantak | type = city | latd = 22.67 | longd = 81.75
locator_position = right | state_name = Madhya Pradesh
district = Anuppur
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altitude = 1048
population_as_of = 2001
population_total = 7074| population_density =
area_magnitude= sq. km
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area_telephone =
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Amarkantak (Devanagari: अमरकंटक) is a pilgrim town and a nagar panchayat in Anuppur District in the state of Madhya Pradesh, India. Also called "Teerthraj" (the king of pilgrimages), Amarkantak region is a unique natural heritage area and is the meeting point of the Vindhyas and the Satpuras, with the Maikal Hills being the fulcrum. This is the place from where the Narmada River, the Sone River and Johila River emerge.

Location

Amarkantak is situated in Anuppur District of Madhya Pradesh in India. Amarkantak is located at coord|22.67|N|81.75|E|. It has an average elevation of 1048 metres (3438 ft). Roads running through Rewa, Shahdol, Bilaspur, Jabalpur, Katni and Pendra connect it. The nearest railway station is Pendra Road (43 km)via keonchi and only 28 k.m. via Jwaleshwar. in Chhatisgarh. The nearest Airport is Dumna Jabalpur (240 km), Raipur C.G. (240 km).

Demographics

As of 2001 India census, [GR|India] Amarkantak had a population of 7074. Males constitute 54% of the population and females 46%. Amarkantak has an average literacy rate of 68%, higher than the national average of 59.5%; with 62% of the males and 38% of females literate. 13% of the population is under 6 years of age.

Geography

It is not only the Narmada which arises from Amarkantak, because the Son River, initially referred to as Jwalawanti of Johila, the Mahanadi and the Amadoh, which is a major early tributary of the Godavari, all rise from within the Amarkantak plateau. The beauty of the plateau can well be gauged from the fact that it lies 1000 metres a.m.s.l. in the midst of a moist sal and mixed forest. A little distance from Gaumukh, the source of the Narmada, is Kapildhara, where the Narmada leaves Anuppur District and enters Dindori District by cascading more than 20 metres down a sheer basalt rock. Four kilometers from Amarkantak is Kabir Chabutara, the exact junction point of Dindori, Bilaspur and Anuppur districts. As the source of the Narmada, which is more than 150 million years older than the Ganga and is considered by many Hindus to be the most sacred for all the rivers of India, Amarkantak itself is sacred to the Hindus and is deemed to be a door-way to ‘nirwana’. In these hills dwell some of the most primitive of the Madhya Pradesh tribals, the Hill Korwas and Pandavas. Even today the Pandavas run away if they see any strangers approaching their village.

Geologically the Amarkantak Hills have underlying basalt (Deccan Traps). The overburden consists of bauxite and laterite, making the soil ferruginous and clayey, with an acidic or neutral reaction. There is schist and gneiss, which is why sal is to be found here despite underlying trap. Climatically Amarkantak is temperate.

July, August and September are the real monsoon months, but there is also some winter rain. February is about the only month which is dry.

The flora and fauna

The temperate climate and the equitable distribution of rain make Amarkantak an ideal plateau for dense vegetation cover. From 1970 to 1976 H.O. Saxena, the Forest Botanist, State Forest Research Institute conducted intensive studies on the flora of Amarkantak, which is classified by Champion as Central Indian sub-tropical hill forests. He identified 635 species, including 612 angiosperms, 2 gymnosperms and 21 pteridophytes. 7 of these species were new for Central India and 14 for Madhya Pradesh. Whilst the forest is sal dominated, there are associate species such as "Mallotus Philipensis", "Buchanania lanzan", "Ougeinia oojeinesis", "Terminalia chebula", "Bauhinia spp", "Grewia spp", "Gardenia latifolia", "Anogeissus latifolia", together with climbers and shrubs such as "Bauhinia vahilii", Dioscorea, Smilax, "Celastrus painiculata" and such ground flora as Desmodium, Moghania, Sida, Crotalaria, Leucas, "Pogostemon benglaensis", Strobilantihes, Setaria, Oplismenus etc. As one moves down into the valleys sal gradually is replaced by mixed forests, which include "Bauhinia retusa", "Grewia spp". "Bursera serrata" (which is normally to be found in the north-east and whose presence in Amarkantak shows the catholicity of vegetation here), "Rhamnus wightii", "Schleichera oleosa", "Schefflera venulosa", "Butea monosperma", "Lagerstoemia parviflora", "Boswellia serrata", "Garuga pinnata", "Ficus spp", "Lannea coromandelica", etc, with a wide variety of grasses and other ground flora. Interestingly enough there are plants of the north-west and central Himalayas to be found in Amarkantak, including "Thalictrum foliolosum", "Ceranium Ocellatum", "Androsace umbellata", "Mazur delavavi", "Lindernia Hookeri" var. Kumannensis, etc. Because of the high percentage of grasses in Amarkantak the ratio of Dicotyledons to monocotyledons here is 68.3 to 26.5 whereas the world average is 81.3 to 18.7.

"Pinus caribaea", known as Tropical pine, was planted in Amarkntak in 1968 on advice of Forest Research Institute, Dehradun on the recommendations of National Agricultural Commission of India looking to the future demand of quality pulp wood. This work was undertaken under the World Bank Technical Assistance Project by clearing natural Sal forests. The naturalists and environmentalists in India raised a controversy over it and ultimately the project of Tropical pine Plantation was abolished. [Yugdharm, Raipur, Forest Wealth Special Issue, 1979]

In isolated eco-system, such as remote valleys and islands, there is an extremely wide variety of floristic genera, but with the proportion of species to genera being very small. This is because each genus is unique to itself and does not proliferate and subdivide into many species. The general rule of the botanical world, however, is that there is a very high proportion of species to genera. The eco-system of Amarkantak is truly unique, closely resembling that of isolated valleys or islands, because whereas the proportion of species genera is 13:1 in the world, in India it is 7:1 and in Amarkantak it is 15:1. This makes every genus in Amarkantak of great botanical importance because if a particular plant becomes extinct the genus itself will die because it does not live through any of its variant species. There are very few such spots in India and this makes Amarkantak a natural heritage area of national and even international importance.

Amarkantak has some extremely valuable medicinal plants, which are now gravely endangered. Two of these call for special mention, "Hedychium coronarium", or Gulbakavali and "Curcuma caesiaRoxburghii", or Kali Haldi. Gulbakavali belong to the family zinziberaceae. Gulbakavali grows on marshy land, with pure water and under dense shade on deep soil. Its natural habitat is Mai-ki-bagia, Sonmuda, Kabir Chabutara, Dudhdhara and some private gardens in Amarkantak. Kali haldi belong to the same family as ginger, turmeric and amba haldi. It tastes very much like ginger and is used extensively as an anti-inflammatory drug for dealing with sprains and bruised. The rhizome gives off new shoots in the rains, with the leaves being about 30cms. long and 15to 16cms. broad. The leaves are a deep, dark green in colour. Kali haldi prefers marshy land and is to be found in Kabir Chabutara, Chadha and the foot hills of Amarkantak. The rhizome contains essential oils and resins, sugar, starch, albuminoids, gums and organic acids and substantial coarse figure. With the other Curcuma Varieties including "C. aromatica" and "C. augustifolia", kali haldi is an endangered species, especially because it is highly localised around Amarkantak, and it requires total protection.

Religious importance of Amarkantak

Amarkantak situated on the western edge of ancient Kingdom of Kalinga is a place of worship for all the three worlds. Gods and Gandharvas (Celestial beings), Asuras (demons), Saints and Sages have all achieved great spiritual powers here. It is believed that who ever dies at Amarkantak is assured of a place in heaven. Also if a lady makes offerings of fruits and flowers will gain the respect of her husband, and no doubt she will also achieve a place in heaven.

When Lord Shiva destroyed Tripura (The three cities) by fire, the ashes of one fell upon mount Kailash, the ashes of another fell upon Amarkantak, and the ashes of the third were saved by Lord Shiva and kept in heaven. The ashes that fell upon Amarkantak turned into crores of Shivalingas. Only one is visible at Jwaleshwar in Amarkantak.

Amarkantak is a Sanskrit word the literal meaning of which is immortal (amar) obstruction (kantak). The place was abode of Gods but was disturbed by the hindrances of Rudraganas and hence called Amarkantak. The poet Kalidas has mentioned it as Amrakoot. Myth is that the dense forests of this region were full of mango (amra) trees. So Kalidas named it as Amrakoot, which later became Amarkantak.

History of Amarkantak

Amarkantak and rivers originating from it do not find mention in Vedic literature, but these have been mentioned in Puranas, Ramayana, Mahabharata, Vashishtha samhita and “Shatapatha Brahmana”. After Mahabharata the history of a period of about 3000 years is in dark. Professor Arjun Chaube Kashyap concludes that the Puranic name of Amarkantak was Riksh parvat. About 6000 years back the Suryavanshi samrat Mandhata founded a town in the valley Riksh parvat and named it Mandhata. The queen of samrat Purukutsa, who was son of Mandhata, gave the title of Narmada to the river. Due to occupation of this area by Mandhata the descendents of Yayati moved from this area to west of Madhya Pradesh and settled on the banks of Narmada River.

According to tradition, this Vindhyachal area was included in the Kingdom of Ayodhya, Kapila Muni, Bhrigu Rishi and Markandeya Rishi had ashrams here. It is also said that Pandavas stayed here and gained spiritual benefits during their exile.

After about 3000 years of Mahabharata the Adi Shankarachrya was born in 788 AD and consecrated on the banks of Narmada River. He founded Pataleshwar Mahadev in Amarkantak at the origin of Narmada from the bamboo clumps. This place is known as Surajkund today. There is no bamboo clumps here now.

In the more recent history, this area was given in dowry to the Kalachuri King by the Chedi King (10th to 11th century AD). The Kalchuri Maharaja Karnadeva (1042-1072 AD) had constructed temples at Surajkund. In 1808 Amarkantak was ruled by the King of Nagpur and later came under foreign rule. In the latestnews, amarkantak selected as the place for India's first tribal university. UPA government decided to form a tribal university.

Places of tourist importance

Amarkantak being a unique natural heritage is very rich in biodiversity. It has got a number of places of scenic beauty. Apart from this it is source of origin of three important rivers. It is a great pilgrim center for Hindus. It is thus a great-unexplored tourism destination.

Narmadakund and temples

At the place of origin of Narmada River there is an open pool known as Narmadakund. Around this kund there are number of temples such as Narmada and Shiva temple, Kartikey temple, Shri Ram Janki temple, Annapurna temple, Guru Gorakhnath temple, Sri Shuryanarayan temple, Vangeshwar Mahadev temple, Durga temple, Shiv Pariwar, Siddheswar Mahadev temple, Sri Radha Krishna temple, Eleven Rudra temple etc.

Ancient temples of Kalachuri period

The ancient temples of Kalachuri period are situated in the south of Narmadakund just behind it. These were built by Kalachuri Maharaja Karnadeva (1042-1072 AD). The Machhendranath and Pataleshwar temples are excellent examples of architecture. There is also Keshav Narayan temple built by the Bhonsle ruler of Nagpur in the 18th century.

onemuda

Sonemuda is the place of origin of Sone River. It is situated at a distance of 1.5 km from Narmadakund at the very edge of Maikal Mountain. The Sone River cascades from the mountain in a waterfall hundreds of feet long. As we stand on the viewing platform facing east, we see a panorama of forested hills and valleys. According to Megasthanes and other Aryan writers the river Sone gets its name from gold as the gold dust is found in the water of Sone.

Mai ki Bagiya (Goddess garden)

A grove of trees in dense forests situated at a distance of one km from Narmadakund is named “Mai ki Bagiya” in honour of the goddess Narmada. In this natural garden Mango, Banana and other fruit trees along with Gulbakavli, roses and other flower plants are there.

Kapildhara (Kapil waterfall)

Six km northwest of Narmadakund is situated the famous waterfall called Kapildhara with a fall of about hundred feet. According to scriptures, Kapil Muni lived here. There is a scene of natural beauty with mountains and dense forest down hills. According to ‘Vindhya Vaibhav’ Kapil Muni performed severe austerities here and received divine light. He also wrote ‘sankhya philosophy’ (an advanced treatise on mathematics) at this place. The Kapileshwar temple is also situated nearby. The surrounding mountains are full of caves where saints have been performing their spiritual practices.

Kabir chabutra (the platform of saint Kabir)

It is an old belief that the great saint Kabir performed austerities here and achieved spiritual powers. It is therefore a holy place for the Kabir panth sect. The local people, the Panikas, consider Kabir Chabutara as one of the holiest places of the Kabirpanthis because Sant Kabir spent many years here in meditation.At this very place Kabir and Nanak met and discussed spiritual matters and introduced the way of better living for human being. It is also the meeting point of three districts, Anuppur and Dindori districts of Madhya Pradesh and Bilaspur district of Chhatisgarh. There is also a Kabir waterfall here.

hri Jwaleshwar Mahadev (the temple of Shiva)

The Jwaleshwar temple and the source of origin of the third river Juhila River is situated at a distance of 8 km from Amarkantak on Shahdol road. According to ‘Vindhya Vaibhav’ Lord Shiva himself established a Shivling here and also scattered crores of other Shivlings over Maikal Mountain. According to puranic traditions a rectangular area containing crores of Shivlings is known as ‘Maha Rudra Meru’ and is the abode of lord Shiva himself. There are only two ‘Maha Rudra Meru’ places Varanasi and Amarkantak. Lord Shiva and Parvati live here because of this special spiritual quality.

References

* [http://www.fallingrain.com/world/IN/35/Amarkantak.html Falling Rain Genomics, Inc - Amarkantak]
*Kavita Dubey (2005): Amarkantak at a glance, Ma Narmada Sahitya Sadan, Amarkantak
*KN Dubey: Amarkantak Dham avam ma Narmada, Kalyanika Prakashan, Amarkantak
*MN Buch: The Forests of Madhya Pradesh, Bhopal

External links

* [http://tdil.mit.gov.in/CoilNet/IGNCA/kabir034.htm Photo gallery]
* [http://anuppur.nic.in/Tourist.htm Anuppur district info on nic]