Johnny Dawes

Johnny Dawes

Johnny Dawes (born 1964) is a British rock climber. He is famous for his dynamic style and often very bold ascents. His influence on British climbing was at its peak in the mid to late-1980s. Among his contributions is the introduction of two new grades to the British grading system for rock climbing (E8 and E9), and several new routes that are today still well respected.In 1986 he introduced the grade E9 to the British grading system with a first ascent of the route "Indian Face" on the Welsh crag Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, about which he wrote:

I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. Arthur Birtwhistle on Diagonal, I grasp in cuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward.

Other notable ascents include:
* 1986 "Gaia", Black Rocks E8 6c (first ascent)
* 1986 "End of the Affair", Curbar Edge E8 6c (first ascent)
* "Smoked Salmon", Bamford Edge E8 7b (first ascent)
* "Face Mecca", Clogwyn Du'r Arddu E9 6c (second ascent)
* "Angel's share", Black Rocks E8 7a (first ascent)
* 1990 "The Very Big & the Very Small" 8b+/8c slab (first ascent)

He is featured in the films "Stone Monkey" (1986), "Best Forgotten Art" (1994) and "Hard Grit" (1998).

External links

* http://www.cragx.com/articles/issue10/grit_extreme/peak.htm
* http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,200,0,1,climbers.html


Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.

Игры ⚽ Нужна курсовая?

Look at other dictionaries:

  • Dawes (disambiguation) — Dawes may refer to:People: *Beman Gates Dawes, politician and oil executive who served two terms as a Republican Congressman from Ohio *Bill Dawes, an Irish American comedian, actor, and writer *Charles G. Dawes, banker, politician and 30th Vice… …   Wikipedia

  • Dawes — Cette page d’homonymie répertorie les différents sujets et articles partageant un même nom. Dawes peut faire référence à : Sommaire 1 Patronyme 1.1 religieux …   Wikipédia en Français

  • Dawes (surname) — This list is incomplete; you can help by expanding it. Dawes is a surname. Those bearing it include: Beman Gates Dawes (1870–1953), politician and oil executive who served two terms as a Republican Congressman from Ohio Charles G. Dawes… …   Wikipedia

  • Johnny Ashcroft — (born 1 February 1927) is an Australian country music entertainer, songwriter, recording artist and musician. Early roots In 1788, Ashcroft’s maternal great great grandfather, Marine Corporal John Gowan, arrived in Australia aboard the First… …   Wikipedia

  • Johnny Vegas — For the character in Tim Dorsey s novels, see Johnny Vegas (character). For the golfer, see Jhonattan Vegas. For the footballer, see Johnny Vegas Fernández. Johnny Vegas Vegas in 2007 Birth name Michael Joseph Pennington …   Wikipedia

  • Clogwyn Du'r Arddu — Clogwyn Du r Arddu, on the north flank of Snowdon, is considered by many to be one of the best climbing cliffs in Britain. It is north facing and comparatively remote (700 m or 2,300 ft above sea level). The name is Welsh and probably… …   Wikipedia

  • Uppingham School — Coordinates: 52°35′16″N 0°43′30″W / 52.58778°N 0.725°W / 52.58778; 0.725 …   Wikipedia

  • Eric Ryan — was a male pornographic actor (porn star) of the 1970s and 1980s who appeared mostly in pornographic movies catering to gay male audiences, and at least one for heterosexual audiences. He was also a talented musician and composer, and spent many… …   Wikipedia

  • List of climbers — This list of climbers includes both mountaineers and rock climbers, since many (though not all) climbers engage in both types of activities. The list also includes boulderers and ice climbers.compactTOC NOTOC A * Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov… …   Wikipedia

  • Nelson's Column — For the BBC comedy, see Nelson s Column (TV series). For the Montreal neighbourhood, see Nelson s Column, Montreal. Nelson s column in Trafalgar square Nelson s Column is a monument in Trafalgar Square in central London built to commemorate… …   Wikipedia

Share the article and excerpts

Direct link
Do a right-click on the link above
and select “Copy Link”