Beth Rodden

Beth Rodden

Beth Rodden (born May 5, 1980 in San Francisco, California) is an American rock climber. She was the youngest woman to send 5.14a, and is one of the few women in the world to have redpointed 5.14b (8c). She lives in Yosemite, California and Estes Park, Colorado, and is married to prominent American trad climber Tommy Caldwell.

Climbing history

Rodden started climbing at age 14 in 1995.

She won the Junior National JCCA Championships in 1996, 1997, and 1998; ranked first overall in the ASCF adult national series in 1997 and 1998; and placed third at the ASCF Fall Nationals in 1998.cite web
last = Heidi
first = Haas
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Beth Rodden
work = Women Climbing
publisher =
date =
url = http://www.womenclimbing.com/climb/biodetail.asp?id=29
format =
doi =
accessdate = 2007-05-13
]

After her trip to Madagascar in 1999, Rodden moved on to a less-mainstream, trad climbing career. Citation
last = Kate
first = Sibler
editor-last = Schaffer
editor-first = Grayson
title = Outside's Faces: The 25 Greatest Athletes Now
publisher = Outside's Bookazine Classics
date = 2005
location =
pages = 32-35
url =
doi =
id =
]

On a climbing trip in Kyrgyzstan in 2000, Rodden, then-boyfriend Tommy Caldwell, and fellow climbers Jason "Singer" Smith and photographer John Dickey were held hostage for six days by rebels from the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan. cite journal
last = Child
first = Greg
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Special Reports: Fear of Falling
journal = Outside Magazine
volume =
issue =
pages =
publisher =
date = November 2000
url = http://outside.away.com/magazine/200011/200011hostages1.html
doi =
id =
accessdate = 2007-05-13
] Citation
last = Child
first = Greg
title = Over the Edge: The True Story of Four American Climbers' Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia
publisher = Villard, Random House Publishing Group
date = April 2, 2002
location =
pages =
url =
doi =
id =
]

Rodden and Tommy Caldwell were married in 2003.

Climbing style

At 5'1", Rodden doesn't have the long reach of most professional male climbers, but makes up for it with her slight build and thin fingers that can fit into small cracks and crimps. Citation
last = Kate
first = Sibler
editor-last = Schaffer
editor-first = Grayson
title = Outside's Faces: The 25 Greatest Athletes Now
publisher = Outside's Bookazine Classics
date = 2005
location =
pages = 32-35
url =
doi =
id =
]

Notable ascents

* 1998: "To Bolt or Not to Be" (5.14a, 8b+) in Smith Rock State Park. Rodden repeated the first 5.14 established in America and became youngest woman to send 5.14a.
* ????: "Sarchasm" (5.14a, 8b+) in Rocky Mountain National Park
* 1999: "Bravo les Filles" (VI 5.13d A0, 13 pitches, FA with Lynn Hill, Nancy Feagin, and Kath Pyke) in Tsaranoro Massif, Madasgascar. cite journal
last =
first =
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Live It Up
journal = Outside Magazine
volume =
issue =
pages =
publisher = Mariah Media Inc.
date = January 2006
url = http://outside.away.com/outside/features/200601/beth-rodden-tommy-caldwell-life-list.html
doi =
id =
accessdate = 2007-05-13
]

* ????: Ruby's Café (5.13a) in Indian Creek Canyon, Utah.
* ????: Disco Gun Machine (5.13, FFA) in Indian Creek Canyon, Utah.
* 2000: "Lurking Fear" (5.10 A3, FFA with Tommy Caldwell) on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley. Originally rated 5.10 A3, the first seven pitches free are 5.12c, 5.13c, 5.12d, 5.12d, 5.12a, 5.12c, and 5.13c.Citation
last = Stanley
first = Matt
editor-last =
editor-first =
title = High Points: Lurking Free
journal = MountainZone.com
publisher = MountainZone.com
date = 3 August 2000
location =
pages =
url = http://climb.mountainzone.com/2000/highpoints/html/080300.html
doi =
id =
accessdate = 2007-05-13
] Citation
last = Cummins
first = Clint
coauthors = Jim Herson, Jeff Schoen, Mark Hudon
editor-last = Cummins
editor-first = Clint
title = Yosemite - Long Hard Free Climbs
publisher = stanford.edu
date = March 2006
location =
pages =
url = http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm
doi =
id =
accessdate = 2007-05-13
] With this climb, Rodden made El Capitan's second female free ascent. Citation
last = Kate
first = Sibler
editor-last = Schaffer
editor-first = Grayson
title = Outside's Faces: The 25 Greatest Athletes Now
publisher = Outside's Bookazine Classics
date = 2005
location =
pages = 32-35
url =
doi =
id =
]
* 2001: "Sphinx Crack" (5.13c) in Colorado. Redpoint of "one of the US's hardest cracks."cite web
last = Horne
first = Jo
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = World news archive: Rodden Solves Sphinx Crack (5.13c)
work = UKClimbing.com
publisher =
date = 2001-12-07
url = http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2001
format =
doi =
accessdate = 2007-05-13
]
* 2002: "Phoenix" (5.13a, first female onsight) in Yosemite Valley.cite book
last = Sibler
first = Kate
editor-last = Schaffer
editor-first = Grayson
title = Outside's Faces: The 25 Greatest Athletes Now
publisher = Outside's Bookazine Classics
date = 2005
location =
pages = 32-35
url =
doi =
id =
]
* 2003: "West Buttress" (5.13c, FFA with Tommy Caldwell) on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley. All pitches were redpointed at different times; no continuous free ascent done yet.Citation
last = Cummins
first = Clint
coauthors = Jim Herson, Jeff Schoen, Mark Hudon
editor-last = Cummins
editor-first = Clint
title = Yosemite - Long Hard Free Climbs: West Buttress (El Cap)
publisher = stanford.edu
date = March 2006
location =
pages =
url = http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#westb
doi =
id =
accessdate = 2007-05-13
]
* 2005: "Anaconda" (5.13b/c, first female free ascent) Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. cite journal
last = Schmidt
first = David
title = Hot Flashes: Rodden Redpoints "Anaconda"
journal = Climbing
volume =
issue = 224
pages =
date = December 2005
publisher = Primedia
url = http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/roddenanaconda/
format =
id =
accessdate = 2007-05-13
]
* 2005: "Grand Wall" (5.13b, Free Ascent) multi-pitch at Squamish, B.C. Canada.
* 2005: "The Optimist" (5.14b, FA/FFA)in Smith Rock State Park. Tied for the hardest first ascent completed by a woman, made Rodden the first American woman to redpoint the grade. cite web
last = Joost
first =
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Emily Harrington climbs 5.14b (8c)
work =
publisher = climbing.nl
date = 2007-02-18
url = http://joost.climbing.nl/?p=285
format =
doi =
accessdate = 2007-05-13
]
* 2005: "The Nose" (VI 5.13, 3rd/4th Free Ascent with Tommy Caldwell) on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California. In October Caldwell and Rodden each led about half of the route’s 31 pitches and freed every one. cite journal
last = MacDonald
first = Dougald
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Caldwell-Rodden Free the Nose
journal = Climbing
volume =
issue =
pages =
publisher =
date =
url = http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/thenosefree/
doi =
id =
accessdate = 2007-05-06
] cite journal
last = Wright
first = Cedar
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Yosemite Valley: Various Activity
journal = Alpinist
volume =
issue =
pages =
publisher =
date =
url = http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP05/climbing-note-wright
doi =
id =
accessdate = 2007-05-06
]
* 2008: "Meltdown" (ungraded, thought 5.14c, First Ascent), Yosemite Valley, California. She worked the climb for most of the winter before redpointing in February, placing all protection on the redpoint ascent.

Filmography

* 2005: "Dosage Volume III" (bigUP productions) - Rodden on "The Optimist"
* 2005: "A Day In The Life: 5 Women Who Climb" (Vasentertainment)
* 2006: "Wall Rats" (Form Follows Function/Yegg Central Productions)
* 2006: "The First Couple of Rock" (Corey Rich and Jason Parr)
* 2008: "Dosage Volume V" (bigUP productions) - Rodden on several hard traditional routes like "Meltdown"
* 2008: "Grand Canyon Walls" (Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer) - Rodden and Tommy Caldwell raft down the Grand Canyon looking for first ascents.

ee also

* List of climbers
* List of female climbers

References

External links

* cite web
last =
first =
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Beth & Tommy
work =
publisher =
date =
url = http://www.bethandtommy.com/
format =
doi =
accessdate =

* cite web
last =
first =
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Beth Rodden
work = Marmot Athletes
publisher =
date = 2006
url = http://f06.marmot.com/athletes/individual.php?id=24
format =
doi =
accessdate = 2007-05-13

* cite web
last = Rodden
first = Beth
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Beth's La Sportiva Blog
work = La Sportiva Blogs
publisher =
date =
url = http://sportiva.typepad.com/beth/
format =
doi =
accessdate = 2007-04-19

* cite web
last = Ryan
first = Mick
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Climb Like a Girl - Part 1
work = UKClimbing.com
publisher =
date = April 2005
url = http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=107
format =
doi =
accessdate = 2007-05-13

* cite journal
last = Coppa
first = Matt
authorlink =
coauthors =
title = Queen of rock
journal = Men's Fitness
volume =
issue =
pages =
date = June-July 2004
publisher = Weider Publications
url = http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1608/is_6_20/ai_n6137238
format =
id =
accessdate = 2007-05-06


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