- Peter Harding (climber)
Peter Reginald James Harding (
30 December 1924 –24 October 2007 ) was a British rock climber who was prominent in the sport during the period followingWorld War II .Climbing career
Harding was born in
Blackpool but raised in theEast Midlands and took his first job as anapprentice as the Rolls Royce factory inDerby . He was inspired to climb during acycling holiday inSnowdonia in late 1943, and the following January he bought acotton rope and began to visit the crags of the nearbyPeak District with his girlfriend and climbing partner Veronica Lee.cite news |first= |last= |authorlink= |coauthors= |title=Peter Harding |url=http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/1569265/Peter-Harding.html |work= |publisher=The Daily Telegraph |date=14 November 2007 |accessdate=2008-05-25] By the following summer, Harding was one of the leading climbers in the Peak District, and was beginning to makefirst ascent s of his own, including many routes now regarded as mid-grade classics. The first of these was "Promontory Traverse" at Black Rocks (modern grade E1 5b) [cite web
url=http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=10816
title=Promontory Traverse
publisher=Rockfax
accessdate=2008-05-25
last=
first=] which crosses a large overhanging prow. This was followed by routes such as "Goliath's Groove" atStanage Edge , the first route to be graded "Exceptionally Severe",cite news |first=Colin |last=Wells |authorlink= |coauthors= |title=Peter Harding |url=http://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/peter-harding-395541.html |work= |publisher=The Independent |date=30 October 2007 |accessdate=2008-05-25] and "Suicide Wall" atCratcliffe Tor in 1946, to which he gave the same grade. While modern protection has made Suicide Wall safer than it was for Harding, it is still regarded as one of Britain's most exciting rock climbs.cite news |first=Jim |last=Perrin |authorlink=Jim Perrin |coauthors= |title=Peter Harding |url=http://www.guardian.co.uk/obituaries/story/0,,2229461,00.html |work= |publisher=The Guardian |date=19 December 2007 |accessdate=2008-05-25] [cite web
url=http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1889
title=Suicide Wall
publisher=Rockfax
accessdate=2008-05-25
last=
first=]In 1947, Peter Harding moved to
Shrewsbury where he became a lecturer in engineering at the technical college, and began to climb inNorth Wales .cite web |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=596 |title=Peter Reginald James Harding: 1924 - 2007 |accessdate=2008-05-30 |last=Allen |first=Kim |coauthors= |date=October 2007 |work=ukclimbing.com |publisher=] He made numerous first ascents there, the most important of which were "Spectre" and "Ivy Sepulchre" in theLlanberis Pass , which would remain among the hardest routes in the area for the next decade.Innovations and contributions to climbing
Harding's most important contribution to climbing technique was to perfect and popularise the hand jam; a method of climbing cracks using the fleshy part of the
thumb in conjunction with the back of the hand to grip the inner part of the crack. He is sometimes credited with inventing the technique, though it is more likely that he rediscovered a method which had been used occasionally since the late 19th century. However, he did much to promote the use of hand jams at a time when most climbers preferred to climb fist-width cracks by tiring laybacking, or by forcing their hands against opposite sides of the crack, as if opening sliding doors. Using the hand jam, Harding claimed, it was possible to hang comfortably from one hand, while smoking acigarette with the other – and he would regularly demonstrate this.cite news |first= |last= |authorlink= |coauthors= |title=Peter Harding |url=http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/comment/obituaries/article2858922.ece |work= |publisher=The Times |date=13 November 2007 |accessdate=2008-05-30]Another of Harding's innovations was the introduction of
aid climbing tactics from Europe, which had previously been regarded as unsporting by British climbers. His most important route in this respect was "Kaisergebirge Wall" in the Llanberis Pass which he climbed in 1948 and which presaged the increased acceptance of the use ofpiton s in the 1950s.In his professional life, Harding took an interest in climbing equipment, and a large amount of data was generated from his experiments on
karabiner s, ropes and pitons in his workshop.Later life
Harding's time at the peak of British climbing was relatively short. He climbed his last major new route in 1949 with "Demon Rib" at Black Rocks; possibly his most difficult route of all, which is now graded E3. [cite web
url=http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=10791
title=Demon Rib
publisher=Rockfax
accessdate=2008-05-31
last=
first=] However, by 1950 his family and career had begun to take priority over climbing and a new generation of climbers, led by Joe Brown andDon Whillans , took his place at the fore of the sport.Harding left teaching in 1951 to work on
brake linings at Small & Parkes, and laterMintex , where he eventually became Research and Development Manager, and produced many technical papers on the braking of road vehicles. This job allowed him to indulge his interest inmotor racing , and he became a regular rally driver. He continued to climb into his seventies, and in 1994 surprised many younger climbers by making a solo ascent of the difficult Younggrat route on theBreithorn .References
Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.