Hallaca

In Venezuelan cuisine, an "hallaca" (alt. spelling, "hayaca") typically involves a mixture of beef, pork, chicken, capers, raisins, and olives wrapped in maize (cornmeal dough), bound with string within plantain leaves, and boiled or steamed afterwards. It is typically served during the Christmas holiday.

Origins

Popular myth has it that, in colonial times, it was common practice for plantation owners to donate leftover Christmas food scraps, such as bits of pork and beef, to their slaves, who would wrap them in cornmeal and plantain leaves for subsequent preparation and cooking, which could take anywhere from 2 to 3 hours.

An alternate theory notes the similarity between the "hallaca" (also known as "hayaca") and the Spanish "empanada gallega" (Galician pastry), emphasizing that the fillings are almost identical. "Hallaca"s would then be empanadas gallegas using corn flour rather than wheat flour, and plantain leaf rather than expensive iron casts not readily available in the new world in colonial times.

However, the most likely origin of the maize body and plantain envelope of the "hallaca" is the Mesoamerican tamale. This version appears likely because tamale-derived dishes, under various names, spread throughout Spain's American colonies, as far south as Argentina, in the decades following the conquest. To this day, some people in western Venezuela (primarily in Zulia, Falcón and Lara states) use the terms "tamar" and "tamare" to refer to what is basically a bollo — the closest version of the tamale in Venezuela — with a simple meat filling.ref|rosenblat_"hallaca"

Noted Venezuelan lexicographer Ángel Rosenblat finds the word "hayaca" in use in a Maracaibo document dated 1538, but argues it most likely referred, at that point, to a bundle of raw corn. According to Adolfo Ernst, the word "hallaca" evolved from the indigenous tonge 'Guarani' and derives from the verm "ayua" or "ayuar", which means to mix or to blend. It is presumed that the term “ayuaca” (mixed things), evolved into “ayaca”, and finally to “hayaca” or “hallaca”, both considered valid by Angel Rosenblat. In its contemporary sense, the earliest use of the word dates to a 1781 document by Italian missionary P. Gilii.

The "hallaca" is the staple Venezuelan Christmas dinner dish and its preparation is practically limited to that time of the year. It is still prepared in a similar fashion to colonial times with some modern refinements. The "hallaca" is also considered one of the most representative icons of Venezuelan multicultural heritage, as its preparation includes European ingredients (such as raisins, nuts and olives), indigenous ingredients (corn meal colored with annatto seeds and onions), and African ingredients (smoked plantain leaves used for wrapping).

Preparation

The traditional "hallaca" is made by extending a plantain leaf, greasing it with a spoonful of annatto-colored cooking oil and spreading on it a round portion of corn dough (roughly 30 cm), which is then sprinkled with various fillings. While no two families make "hallaca"s in quite the same way, the most common fillings include a mix of stewed (or rare) meats (pork, poultry, beef, lard, crisp or pork rind), raisins and pitted green olives. Pepper filled olives are becoming more popular nowadays. People in the Llanos (savannah) add boiled eggs and pieces of red pepper. Others might add nuts and almonds.

The filled dough is then skillfully wrapped in an oblong fashion and tied with string in a typical square mesh before its cooking in boiling water. Afterwards, it is picked from the pail with a fork, unwrapped and served on its own plantain leaves with chicken salad, "pan de jamón" (ham filled bread) or plain bread. In the Andean region, the filling is cooked with the rest of the "hallaca", while in the rest of the country it is usually cooked beforehand.

The ideal "hallaca" has a silky golden-reddish glow. In taste, it aims to balance the saltiness of the meats and olives with the sweetness of the raisins and of the dough itself.

After making a number of "hallaca"s, the remaining portion of ingredients is occasionally mixed together in order to obtain a uniform dough. The dough undergoes the same "hallaca" wrap and cooking preparation, although typically smaller in size and much fewer in number. The result is the bollo, which may be offered as a lighter option to the "hallaca" at breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

After cooking, "hallaca"s can be frozen for several weeks with no change in flavor. It is common for families to eat "hallaca"s as late as May or June of the next year.

Ingredients differ from region to region and from family to family. It is not uncommon to find "hallaca"s with chickpeas, tomato, bell pepper, pickled vegetables, and garlic. Potatoes are included in the Andean variation. Also, some of the traditional ingredients may be substituted by local variants such as fish and lobster (East Coast) and plantain dough (Maracaibo).

Culture

"Hallaca"-making requires many hours of intense work, so "hallaca"s are typically made all in one go, in large enough quantities to last the entire holiday season (from a few dozen to several hundred). "Hallaca" making is a logistical feat and an economic stretch for many. The most important Venezuelan newspapers usually carry stories in their Economics sections at the beginning of December noting the rise in the cost of making "hallaca"s.

"Hallaca"-making reunites family members at Christmas time. It is a job joyfully done by whole families together, marking the start of the Christmas festivities. However, the most important part of “hallaca-preparation” is that it represents one of the strongest Christmas family traditions in Venezuela, comparable perhaps to Thanksgiving in United States, as it is embraced by all cultures, religions, and social strata.

The "hallaca" making party is matriarchal, with grandmothers and/or mothers in the lead roles. Traditional music and drinks contribute to the festive atmosphere, and maternal power is unimpeded. Scenes of mothers scolding children for stealing bits of fillings from the table and men complaining of being left to clean leaves and to do last minute shoppings are integral parts of Venezuelan Christmas tradition.

It is customary between families, neighbors and friends to share several "hallaca"s as a way to evaluate the skills of the other party in their making. It is also customary to offer them to all visitors. Foreigners in Venezuela in December are often struck by how often they are offered "hallaca"s.

Friendly rivalry over whose "hallaca"s are the best is part of the Venezuelan Christmas culture, leading to the popular saying "la mejor "hallaca" es la que hace mi mamá" - the best "hallaca" is the one my mother makes - an expression of familism. This expression was immortalized in a Christmas song by Venezuelan pop singer Raquel Castaño.

External links

* [http://www.recipegoldmine.com/worldsoutham/hallacas.html Recipe Goldmine]
* [http://www.lapaella.co.uk/culture/hallaca.html Lapaella Recipe]
* http://www.analitica.com/bitblioteca/rosenblat/hallaca.asp

Notes

# Rosenblat, Ángel. (Venezuela Analysis, ???). [http://www.analitica.com/bitblioteca/rosenblat/"hallaca".asp "hallaca"] . Retrieved 09 Jan 2005.