Portobello, Dublin

In Dublin, Portobello ( _ga. Cuan Aoibhinn) is an area stretching westwards from South Richmond Street as far as Upper Clanbrassil Street, bordered on the north by the South Circular Road and on the south by the Grand Canal.

History

The name Portobello describes the stretch of the Grand Canal leading to the bridge from South Richmond Street to Rathmines. Although referred to locally as Portobello Bridge, the correct name is La Touche Bridge (named after William Digges La Touche, scion of a prominent Dublin business family and a director of the Grand Canal Company).cite web|url=http://www.chaptersofdublin.com/books/DublinSt/dubstreetp.htm|author= Rev. C. T. M'Cready|title=Dublin Street Names Dated and Explained|date=last modified 1998|publisher=1892|accessdate=2008-10-06] Like the Portobello area of London, Dublin's Portobello was ultimately named for the capture by Admiral Vernon in 1739 of Portobelo on Panama's Caribbean Coast, during the conflict between the United Kingdom and Spain known as the War of Jenkins' Ear.

The Dublin section of the Grand Canal was opened on 23 April 1796, while Portobello Harbour (or Basin) came into use in 1801. The basin also functioned as a water reservoir for the surrounding suburbs. From 1860 investigations of the water quality coming from the canal showed that it was not up to standard, in particular, levels of sulphuric acid were relatively high. Public representatives from Rathmines were unwilling to cough up the necessary money for a new water-works, but the will of the majority prevailed, and the Vartry water-works were completed in 1863.cite web|url=http://www.chaptersofdublin.com/books/ossory/ossory9.htm|author= Samuel A. Ossory Fitzpatrick|title=Dublin: A Historical and Topographical Account of the City|date=last modified 1998|publisher=1907|accessdate=2008-10-06]

The hotel at the harbour (now Portobello College) was opened in 1807.cite book|last= McNeil|first= Ian |year= 1990|title= An Encyclopaedia of the History of Technology|pages= p. 481|publisher= Taylor and Francis|id= ISBN 0415013062] In 1858 it was taken over by a Catholic order of nuns, who used it as an asylum (St. Mary's) for blind girls. They successfully appealed to the Guardians of the South Dublin Union for some finance (it cost £10 to keep a girl for a year), though the Irish Times in an editorial looked askance at this proselytising by "Romanists", while they lauded the efforts of the "Home for Orphans" at 7 Richmond Street (which advertised frequently for "fresh souls to save" in this very paper). In the 20th century the building became a nursing home.

Most of the area was developed in the 19th century, the houses along the South Circular Road being built between 1850 and 1870, although the smaller houses off Lennox Street were built by the Dublin Artisans' Dwellings Company some time later, from 1885 (just in time, in fact, for the increasing number of Jews looking for houses in the area). This company also built houses on that part of Portobello Basin that was filled in in 1883.cite book|last= Casey|first= Christine |year= 2005|title= Dublin: The City Within the Grand and Royal Canals and the Circular Road with the Phoenix Park |pages= p. 667|publisher= Yale University Press|location= Yale|id= ISBN 0300109237]

Part of Lennox Street and Florence Street stretching down to the South Circular Road were part of the Kingsland estate, which contained a park with a large pond and fountains (opened as the Royal Portobello Gardens in 1839). The name survives in Kingsland Park Avenue. From 1858 the Portobello Gardens were leased by Mssrs. Kirby and Webb. Kirby was a pyrotechnician who lived in Sackville Street. During the Summer months the gardens were lit by gas and Chinese lamps, a band played outdoors, and the public were entertained by acrobats, dancers and "a highly trained troupe of performing dogs". And of course, fireworks.cite book|last= Irish Times|first= |year= 9 July 1859|title= The Royal Portobello Gardens|publisher= The Irish Times] In 1861 during a performance by the famous tight-rope walker Charles Blondin, the rope broke, which led to the supporting scaffolding collapsing. Blondin was not injured, but two workers who were on the scaffolding fell to their deaths. The following year Kirby was the victim of arson, both the music-hall in the gardens and his house in Sackville Street were burned down, resulting in high claims for compensation. Plans for developing the gardens for housing started around this time.

The original name of Victoria Street was Kingsland Park, which was developed from 1865 by Frederick Stokes, the main developer of Rathmines and Portobello at the time. Some of the houses in this street remained empty for some time after they were built and were frequented by "ladies of the night", who catered to the nearby Portobello Barracks. As a result the street acquired a bad reputation and respectable families moved out. Even after the ladies moved on, the bad reputation of the street remained, and thus the name was changed to Victoria Street.cite book|last= Daly|first= Mary |year= 1998|title= Dublin's Victorian Houses|pages= p. 12|publisher= A and A Farmar|location= Dublin|id= ISBN 1899047425]

Across the road from Portobello Gardens was the Emorville Estate, which was sold and developed around the mid 1860s. Today Emorville Avenue marks the spot. Before it was broken up Leinster Cricket Club (founded 1852) used it as their grounds, until they moved to their present grounds in Observatory Lane in 1865.cite web|url=http://www.leinster.cc/history/theearlydaysofleinster.htm|author= LCC|title=The History of Leinster Cricket Club, 1852-2008 - The Early Days of Leinster|date=last modified 2000|accessdate=2008-10-06]

Several older streets in the neighbourhood (ie, Richmond, Harrington, Lennox, Heytesbury and Camden) were named after British Viceroys. Stamer Street, developed around 1880, was named after a former Lord Mayor.

The nearby Portobello Barracks (now Cathal Brugha Barracks) were constructed between 1810 and 1815. It was adopted as General Michael Collins' Military Headquarters after the Irish War of Independence.

Little Jerusalem

The area was also known as Little Jerusalem because in the first half of the Twentieth century it was at the heart of the Jewish community in Ireland. The first Jews arrived from Russia in the early 1870s and settled off Lower Clanbrassil Street. Over the next few decades as they became more prosperous many moved to the South Circular Road, Longwood Avenue, Bloomfield Avenue and other parts of Portobello. The shopping area of Little Jerusalem stretched along Lower Clanbrassil Street where there were many Jewish shops and businesses, mixed with local Irish, for example Eastman butchers, who carried out the ritual slaughtering until a Jewish slaughter-house was established in Vincent Street. For a long time local (non-Jewish) children earned their pocket-money by lighting fires and doing odd-jobs (the Shabbat goy) for the Jews on their Sabbath.

Myer Wigoder, who was born in Lithuania but had to flee after a pogrom there, started a Hebrew class near Kelly's Corner and a synagogue in Camden Street. His son Harry lived at 32 Charlemont Street and was a well-known soccer-player. Also from Lithuania, Ada Shillman came to Dublin in 1892 and became a midwife. She started a dispensary for Jewish women in Bloomfield Avenue and helped found St. Ultan's Infant Hospital in Charlemont Street. Her son Bernard became a distinguished Senior Counsel.cite book |last= Keogh|first= Dermot|year= 1998|title= Jews in Twentieth-century Ireland |pages= pp. 64-70 |publisher= Cork University Press|location=Cork|id= ISBN 9781859181508]

The International Tailors, Machinists and Pressers’ Trade Union was founded in November 1908 (and registered in April 1909) by Jewish clothing workers hailing from the South Circular Road area of Dublin. Its HQ was in Camden Street. Aaron Klein of 14 Warren Street was its first treasurer. A later Secretary was Isaac Baker from Emorville Avenue.cite web|url=http://www.geocities.com/IrelandSCW/ibvol-MoR1.htm|author= Manus O'Riordan|title=Ireland and the Spanish Civil War|date=last modified 1987|accessdate=2008-10-08]

The Jewish presence in the area declined following the end of World War II, with a number of Jews emigrating to Israel, and the majority leaving for New York. Though the main Jewish population that remained in Dublin have moved out to Terenure, just three miles away, a small number still live in the area, but their own shops, schools, and small businesses no longer exist.

The Irish Jewish Museum is located on Walworth Road. The long-standing Kosher bakery, the Bretzel, is still in Lennox Street, under new management.

Present-day

The remainder of the large harbour (Portobello Harbour or Basin), which doubled as a water-reservoir until it lost its reservoir function with the completion of the Vartry Water-works, was drained in 1948 and largely filled in. The reclaimed land is now a leisure area and often used for skateboarding. Next to it is the private Portobello College, and just around the corner are various shops, pubs and restaurants, giving the locality a lively and vibrant air. The Grand Canal itself is still thriving in a leisurely way and now serves as a picturesque amenity much frequented by the local population.

The main employer locally in the inter-war period and afterwards was Ever-Ready Batteries at Portobello Harbour. The factory is now closed and small businesses and attractive apartments occupy the space.

The main school in the area is Synge Street CBS. The Catholic Church is Harrington Street (St. Kevin's), built next to the Christian Brothers Monastery in 1871. Across the road is St. Kevin's Hall, which used to be the meeting place for the Catholic Boy Scouts and Girl Guides. There used to be a Jewish school in Bloomfield Avenue (now Bloomfield House) and synagogues in Walworth Road (established 1917, now the Jewish Museum) and in Adelaide Road but these are all closed now (new facilities have been set up elsewhere). The many Muslims now living in the area attend the Dublin Mosque further along the South Circular Road, and there is also a centre in Harrington Street. The local Church of Ireland church, St. Kevin's, was closed in the 1970's and tastefully converted to apartments, while the adjacent church buildings became a community centre. The little church at the top of Victoria Street formerly belonged to the Moravian Church, and was for a while used as a women's Social Welfare office.

Famous residents

*The famous playwright George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) was born on Synge Street.cite book |title= A Dictionary of Irish Biography |last= Boylan|first= Henry |year=1999 |publisher= Gill and Macmillan|location= Dublin|isbn= 0-7171-2945-4]

*Eamonn Andrews (1922–1987), well-known radio and then television presenter, was born on Synge Street and attended Synge Street CBS.

*Barry Fitzgerald (1888-1961), the Abbey actor who was awarded an Oscar, was born in Walworth Road.cite book |title= A Dictionary of Irish Biography |last= Boylan|first= Henry |year=1999 |publisher= Gill and Macmillan|location= Dublin|isbn= 0-7171-2945-4]

*Michael O'Riordan (1917-2006), who fought in the International Brigades during the Spanish Civil War and became head of the Communist Party of Ireland, lived for many years in Victoria Street.

*Chaim Herzog (1918-1997), sixth President of Israel, grew up in 33 Bloomfield Avenue. His father, Yitzhak HaLevi Herzog, was Chief Rabbi of Ireland (and later of Palestine and Israel).cite book |title= A Dictionary of Irish Biography |last= Boylan|first= Henry |year=1999 |publisher= Gill and Macmillan|location= Dublin|isbn= 0-7171-2945-4]

*Jack Yeats (1871-1957) the painter lived for several years before his death in the nursing home at Portobello Harbour.

*Cornelius Ryan (1920–1974), born on Heytesbury Street, was a journalist and author best known for his writings on popular military history, especially his World War II books: The Longest Day (1959), The Last Battle (1966), and A Bridge Too Far (1974).

*Cearbhall Ó Dálaigh (1911–1978), fifth President of Ireland, lived much of his life in No 15 Portobello Road.

*Maurice Levitas (1917-2001), born in Portobello, was an anti-fascist who took part in the Battle of Cable Street and fought in the International Brigades during the Spanish Civil War. He is the father of Ruth Levitas.cite web|url=http://www.geocities.com/IrelandSCW/obit-MLevitas.htm|author= Padraig Yeates|title=Obituary for Maurice Levitas|date=last modified 2001|publisher=Irish Times, Guardian|accessdate=2008-10-08]

*George William Russell (1867-1935), the writer and painter known as AE, lived at 33 Emorville Avenue after his family moved to Dublin.

*The Black family (Mary Black, Frances Black and their siblings) grew up near Kelly's Corner.

*Philip Brady (1893-1995) was owner of the well-known pharmacy at Kelly's Corner and the family house next door. He was a TD for 26 years up to 1977 and was also a former Lord Mayor of the city. His son Gerard was also a TD and a cabinet minister.

*The parents of James Joyce stayed at 30 Emorville Avenue in 1881, before moving to Rathgar where James was born the following year. Before their marriage they had both lived in different houses on Clanbrassil Street.

*Paul Smith (1920-1997), writer ("The Countrywoman", "Summer Sang in Me", etc.) was born close to Portobello Bridge.

*Lord Edward FitzGerald, of 1798 fame, had a hiding place close to Portobello Bridge, on Rathmines Road, until 13 May 1798, at a house belonging to a widow named Dillon.cite web|url=http://www.chaptersofdublin.com/books/PictDub/picturesque15.htm|author= Frances Gerard|title=Picturesque Dublin Old and New|date=last modified 1998|publisher=Hutchinson (1898)|accessdate=2008-10-08]

*Henry Grattan, the famous parliamentarian, had a house close to Portobello Bridge, which was presented to him by the citizens of Dublin. The widow of his second son resided there after his death.cite web|url=http://www.chaptersofdublin.com/books/PictDub/picturesque15.htm|author= Frances Gerard|title=Picturesque Dublin Old and New|date=last modified 1998|publisher=Hutchinson (1898)|accessdate=2008-10-08]

*Leopold Bloom, the fictional Jewish character at the heart of the James Joyce novel Ulysses, lived at "52 Clanbrassil Street"; a plaque commemorating this can be found on the wall of 52 Upper Clanbrassil Street.

Of historical interest

;A terrible tragedy at Portobello BridgeAt 9 o’clock on the evening of Saturday, 6th April, 1861 near Portobello Bridge, a horse-drawn bus, driven by Patrick Hardy, had just dropped off a passenger and started up the steep incline of the bridge when one of the horses started to rear. The driver tried to turn the horses but both horses became uncontrollable with fear and backed the bus through the wooden rails of the bridge. The bus, horses and six passengers inside the bus, plunged into the dark cold waters of the canal lock, which which was about 20 feet deep, with 10 feet of water at the bottom. The conductor was able to jump clear and the driver was pulled from the water by a passing policeman. Despite the frantic efforts of passers-by, in particular a constable and a soldier from Portobello Barracks who broke their way into the submerged bus, all inside were drowned. One of those killed was the father of the Gunne brothers, who opened the Gaiety Theatre. Two were mothers with their little girls. The repercussions of this tragedy were felt for a long time in the area. Passengers on horse-drawn vehicles had to alight at Portobello Bridge and walk across the bridge before continuing their journey.cite book|last= Daly|first= Mary |year= 1998|title= Dublin's Victorian Houses|pages= p. 123-125|publisher= A and A Farmar|location= Dublin|id= ISBN 1899047425] According to some accounts, a brilliant light was seen to rise from the canal water and turn into a human shape. They say the ghost of a lock-keeper, who drowned himself after being sacked for drunkenness, was to blame for the tragedy. [ [http://www.paranormaldatabase.com/hotspots/dublin.php Dublin Paranormal] ] ;1916, A terse replyDuring the Easter Rising in 1916, the Irish Citizen Army sent a group of men to seize a delaying position at Portobello Bridge (La Touche Bridge), to allow fortifications to be constructed in the city centre. They were led by a James Joyce (not the author) who worked in Davy's bar near the bridge—the bar was to be used as the outpost. When his unit burst in, the bar owner gave Joyce one weeks notice, but Joyce then told Davy he had five minutes to get out. [ [http://www.indymedia.ie/article/74459 The 1916 insurrection in the Liberties] ] ;1916, Murder of Sheehy-SkeffingtonAlso during the Easter Rising, the pacifist Francis Sheehy-Skeffington was arrested on 25 April for no obvious reason, while returning to his home in Rathmines, by members of the British 11th East Surrey Regiment at Portobello Bridge. He was taken to Portobello Barracks, where he was held as an enemy sympathizer. Later that evening, he was taken out as a hostage with a raiding party led by Captain J.C. Bowen-Colthurst to the home and shop of Alderman James Kelly, at the corner of Camden Street and Harcourt Road (from which the name "Kelly's Corner" derives). Mistaking the Alderman (a conservative) for a rebel, the soldiers destroyed the shop with grenades. On the way back to Rathmines Skeffington was the witness to two murders committed by Bowen-Colthurst and his party on 2 unarmed civilians (one of them a 17-year-old boy from Mountpleasant Avenue returning from Rathmines church). The following morning Bowen-Colthurst ordered his sergeant to organise a firing party to shoot dead Sheehy-Skeffington and two pro-British journalists—Thomas Dixon (a disabled Scotsman) and Patrick McIntyre—who were unlucky enough to have been in Kelly's shop when it was raided. The three were shot in the back as they walked towards a wall in the barracks yard. The British authorities tried to hush up the killings, and in fact even offered Bowen-Colthurst command of a regiment in Newry. But as soon as he found out what had happened, Bowen-Colthurst's commanding officer, Sir Francis Fletcher Vane tried to have Bowen-Colthurst arrested for murder, and was sacked from the army for his pains (as the Public Records Office nicely put it: "this officer was relegated to unemployment owing to his action in the Skeffington murder case in the Sinn Féin rebellion"). Bowen-Colthurst pleaded insanity at a later investigation and was put away for 18 months. [cite news | url = http://www.ireland.com/newspaper/opinion/2006/0826/1156401041027.html | title = Officer who exposed pacifist's murder | publisher = The Irish Times | last = Redmond | first = Dara | date = 2006-08-26 ] [cite news | url = http://forum.irishmilitaryonline.com/showthread.php?t=2625 | title = An Irishman's Diary | publisher = Irish Military Online | last = Martin | first = Seamas | date = 2004-02-23 ] ;Dead and wounded after riot in Richmond StreetOn 22 March 1920 an incident, typical of the time, occurred in the area. A large group of British soldiers of the Royal Berkshire Regiment, returning, singing, to Portobello Barracks after a night out on the town, were attacked with stones by a crowd at Kelly's Corner. By the time they reached Lennox Street gunfire had broken out, one soldier being shot in the chest. A running fight along the street developed until armed reinforcements arrived from the Barracks. Gunfire broke out between the two sides, and the soldiers forced the crowd back towards Camden Street, firing at them when they did not obey the command to disperse. At least one man and a woman were killed, and many injured.cite web|url=http://hansard.millbanksystems.com/commons/1920/mar/23/riot-dublin|author= Hansard|title=Riot, Dublin|date=last modified 2000|publisher=Hansard|accessdate=2008-10-06]

Nearby suburbs

*Rathmines
*Harold's Cross

External links

* [http://p-www.iwate-pu.ac.jp/~acro-ito/Joyce_pics2003/Joyce2003oDUB2/images/dub2003-121.jpgImage of Plaque at 52 Upper Clanbrassil Street]

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