Corsetmaker

Corsetiers cutting out and fitting in the 18th century

A corsetmaker is a specialist tailor who makes corsets. Corsetmakers are frequently known by the French equivalent terms corsetier (male) and corsetière (female). Stay-maker is an obsolete name for a corsetmaker. The word corset replaced the word stays after the Great Exhibition in 1851, because a prizewinning type of French stay was called the Hygienic Corset.^[1]

The best corsetmakers are highly skilled tailors with a knowledge of anatomy that enables them to make well-fitting, long-lasting corsets. Corsetmakers who reproduce historical styles must be familiar with historical fashions and costumes that span centuries of history.

Individual corsetmakers often favour a certain style, and frequently have differing theories and opinions about the physical impact and benefits of various corsets, thereby influencing their corset design and creation.

Famous corsetmakers

• Thomas Paine, one of the Founding Fathers of the United States.
• Roxey Ann Caplin.^[2]
• Cathrine Allsop Griswold^[3]
• Daniel Kops^[4]
• Fakir Musafar

Travelling corsetiers

Some companies had travelling saleswomen, corsetiers who order the tailored corsets from the company. Well-known is Spirella (1904–1989), Barcley , Spenser .

Considerations

Corsetiers cutting out in 1928.

The main consideration of corset design is duration of use. For short-term use, e.g. used for a special event such as a wedding, a corset will be worn briefly and so is not subject to wear, therefore need not be of the highest quality of construction. For long-term use, e.g., by tightlacing or waist training, corsets must be made to exact standards and are best custom-fitted and designed for the individual wearer. Single weakness or flaws tend to be visible. Some custom-made gowns have corsets built into the design; a talented dressmaker may also be a skilled corset-maker.

Example of a Corsetmakers work

The first step in a corset make is identify the customers type of body shape. The more fat, the fewer alternative corsets.^[5]

Slender Figures

Medium Figure

Stout Figure

See also

• Corset
• History of corsets
• Hourglass corset
• Tightlacing

References

1. ^ our Hygienic Corset, it is either pirated or attempted by almost every staymaker in London and Paris
2. ^ MADAME CAPLIN'S INVENTIONS FOR THE ADAPTATION OF THE DRESS TO THE BODY; THE PRESERVATION OF HEALTH; The Cure of Deformity, and the Display of Beauty.
3. ^ U. S. patent of corsets, no.: 56210; 61825; 116585; 157445; 171012; 181330; 201177; 291335; 291336; 291337; 291338; 358348; 358349; 392195; 392196; 392197; 392198; 392199; 392200; 392201; D18919; D18920; D18921; D18922; D18923; D19234; D19235; D19236; D19237; D19238; D19239; D19240; R4427; R7895; R10935; R10939.
   • Catherine Griswold, a Connecticut corsetmaker who held thirty patents, the most of any woman in America at the time.
   • Most prolific women inventors - 1790-1895
4. ^ U. S. Patents only about corsets no.: 496124; 582748; 587553; 593397; 610063; 611068; 631079; 654403; 683297; 694160; 694161; 712312; 727385; 766630; 766704; 766705; 766706; 777423; 785502; 788915; 790061; 794029; 796845; 798967; 813805; 824489; 824490; 832390; 851525; 892742; 898749; 898750; 913404; 914732; 919028; 919890; 928669; 946231; 961501; 967645; 968365; 975771; 975772; 1019487; 1020764; 1030190; 1032146; 1042125; 1042126; 1044191; 1047083; 1058183; 1062977; 1072128; 1072862; 1082273; 1099056; 1127023; 1127024; 1135698; 1152109; 1152954; 1170282; 1170283; 1202010; 1212963; 1213658; 1214180; 1215287; 1215550; 1233251; 1234549; 1241400; 1253053; 1254512; 1256576; 1260211; 1307132; 1317508; 1318156; 1318884; 1321059; 1328086; 1328675; 1365504; 1366811; 1399486; 1399487; 1400294; 1432470; 1458767; 1478232; 1479076; 1494920; 1495750; 1496578; 1499109; RE12120; RE15134.
5. ^ Spirella Catalogue

Books

• Doyle R. (1997)Waisted Efforts, An Illustrated Guide To Corset Making. Nova Scotia, Sartorial Press Publications, ISBN 0-9683039-0-0
• Tight Linings and Boning Mary Brooks Picken, 1920
• The Practical Corsetiere Mme Ruth A. Rosenfeld 1933
• The Basics Of Corset Building, A Handbook For Beginners by Linda Sparks (Author) ISBN 0-9737358-0-5
• Caplin - Health and Beauty (1864)