Action Directe (climb)

Action Directe (climb)

"Action Directe" is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.

It has been climbed by ten people.

The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence. Simpson and Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.

The repeat ascents were by:
*Alexander Adler on 9 September 1995
*Iker Pou on 7 June 2000
*Dave Graham on 21 May 2001
*Christian Bindhammer on 14 May 2003
*Rich Simpson on 13 October 2005
*Dai Koyamada on 15 October 2005
*Markus Bock on 22 October 2005
*Kilian Fischhuber on 25 September 2006.
*Adam Ondra on 19 May 2008.

Despite being generally recognized as the world's first 9a, Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI, which corresponds to 8c+/5.14c.

It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific technique needed for this route.

External links

* [http://gomountain.procons.net/gomountain/gomountaindata.nsf/0/8d54e2390968d58e412569ed002e698e?OpenDocument 3rd ascent] and picture
* [http://www.camp4.com/news/index.php?newsid=101 4th ascent]
* [http://www.sportclimbing.de/news/news.php3?ID=2887&time=05&year=2003&show= 5th ascent]
* [http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=794 6th ascent by Rich Simpson]
* [http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=797 7th ascent by Dai Koyamada]
* [http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=813 8th ascent by Markus Bock]
* [http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=1367 9th ascent by Kilian Fischhuber]
* [http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=6953 10th ascent by Adam Ondra]

INTERVIEWS
* [http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=835 Rich Simpson interview on Action Directe]
* [http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=812 Dai Koyamada interview on Action Directe]
* [http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=822 Markus Bock interview on Action Directe]
* [http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=1377 Kilian Fischhuber interview on Action Directe]


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