- History of rock climbing
Although the "practice" of
rock climbing was an important component of Victorianmountaineering in theAlps , it is generally thought that the "sport" of rock climbing began in the last quarter of thenineteenth century in at least three areas:Elbsandsteingebirge , inSaxony nearDresden Goldammer, Albert & Wächtler, Martin (1936). "Bergsteigen in Sachsen", Dresden] , theLake District ofEngland Jones, Owen Glynne (1900). "Rock Climbing in the English Lake District", G. P. Abraham & Sons, Keswick] , and theDolomites in Italy "Bergakrobaten: Die Dolomiten und die Erfindung des Kletterns", Città di Bolzano, Bolzano 2006] . Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to an athletic sport in its own right, making it imprudent to cite a primogenitor of the latter in each of these three locales. Nevertheless, there is some general agreement on the following:*Heralded as a sport in
England in the late1880s after the (well publicised) solo first ascent of the "Napes Needle" byWalter Parry Haskett Smith , rock climbing attracted increasing numbers of participants. An early benchmark approaching modern levels of difficulty was the ascent, byO. G. Jones , of "Kern Knotts Crack" (VS) in1897 . Jones was attracted to the new sport by a photo of the Needle in a shop window in the early1890s . By the end of the Victorian era as many as 60 enthusiasts at a time would gather at theWastwater Hotel in the Lake District during vacation periods Hankinson, Alan (1972). "The First Tigers", J. M. Dent & Sons, London] .*Inspired by the efforts of late
19th century pioneers such asOskar Schuster ("Falkenstein", Schusterweg1892 ), by1903 there were approximately 500 climbers active in the Elbsandstein region, including the well-known team ofRudolf Fehrmann and the American,Oliver Perry-Smith ; their1906 ascent of "Teufelsturm" (at VIIb) set new standards of difficulty. By the1930 s there were over 200 small climbing clubs represented in the area Goldammer, Albert & Wächtler, Martin (1936). "Bergsteigen in Sachsen", Dresden] .*The solo first ascent of "Die Vajolettürme" in
1887 by the 17 year-oldMunich high school student,Georg Winkler , encouraged the acceptance and development of the sport in theDolomites "Bergakrobaten: Die Dolomiten und die Erfindung des Kletterns", Città di Bolzano, Bolzano 2006] .As rock climbing matured, a variety of grading systems were created in order to more accurately compare relative difficulties of climbs. Over the years both climbing techniques and the equipment climbers use to advance the sport have evolved in a steady fashion.
Some historical benchmarks
*
400 BC : Chinese watercolors that depict men climbing rocks.*
1300 's : TheAnasazi s in the southwest United States drilled holes for posts and carved steps up the steep rock cliffs in Chaco Canyon. There arecliff dwellings scattered throughout the southwest. Given the difficult approaches to some of these cliff dwellings it seems reasonable to assume that the natives had the skills necessary to ascend what would now be considered technical climbing terrain.*
1492 :Antoine de Ville ascends Mont Inaccessible,Mont Aiguille , a 300 meter rock tower south of Grenoble, France. Under orders from his king, he used the techniques developed for sieging castles to attain an otherwise unreachable summit. The ascent is described byFrançois Rabelais in his Quart Livre. Middendorf, John. " [http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/mechadv/index.html The Mechanical Advantage] ". Ascent 1999.]*
1695 :Martin Martin describes the traditional practice of fowling by climbing with the use of ropes in theHebrides ofScotland , especially on St Kilda. [Martin, Martin (1703) [http://www.appins.org/martin.htm "A Voyage to St. Kilda" in "A Description of The Western Islands of Scotland"] . Retrieved3 March 2007 .]*
1786 : The first ascent ofMont Blanc is often referred to as the start of mountaineering’s “modern era”. It took another century before history documents the use of devices similar to today’s fixed anchors: pitons, bolts and rappel slings.*By the
1800s , climbing was developing as a recreational pastime. Equipment in the early 1800s began with an alpenstock (a large walking stick with a metal tip), a primitive form of three- point instep crampon, and a woodcutter's axe. These were the tools of the alpine shepherd, who was shortly to move from guiding sheep to guiding men, a much more lucrative enterprise. With time the alpenstock and the axe were combined into one tool: the ice-axe. Add a large, thick (and weak) rope, to help the client climb, and guide and novice were off to the mountains.*
1869 :John Muir , famed naturalist and climber, wearing hiking boots, makes the first ascent ofCathedral Peak inTuolumne Meadows as an on-sight, free solo. He is also known for spending a night at the top of a 100+ foot tall pine tree during a lightning storm, now known as theJohn Muir Tree . A History of Free Climbing in America, Wizards of Rock by Pat Ament]Climbing in North America by Chris Jones]*
1875 :Half Dome inYosemite National Park is first climbed by George Anderson. He uses eye bolts in drilled holes as hand and toe holds. He uses a fixed rope to return to his high point each day. [Muir, John (1912). " [http://www.sierraclub.org/john_muir_exhibit/frameindex.html?http://www.sierraclub.org/john_muir_exhibit/writings/the_yosemite/chapter_10.html The Yosemite] ".]*
1880 s : The Sport of Rock Climbing begins in theLake District andWales inGreat Britain ,Saxony nearDresden , and theDolomites . W. P. Haskett Smith is frequently called the "Father of Rock Climbing" in the British Isles, andOskar Schuster was an early climber atElbsandsteingebirge .*
1886 : W. P. Haskett Smith makes the first ascent (in free solo style) of the 70 footNapes Needle , in theLake District ofEngland . The resulting publicity introduces the general British public to the new sport of rock climbing.*
1887 :Georg Winkler , at the age of 17, makes the first ascent - solo - of "Die Vajolettürme" in the Dolomites, initiating the sport of rock climbing in that area.*
1892 :Oscar Eckenstein , a British climber, conducts abouldering competition, with cash prizes, among the natives while on an expedition to theKarakoram Mountains . ( [http://www.johngill.net] ).*
1893 :Devils Tower is first summited by ranchers William Rogers and Willard Ripley through the use of wooden spike pounded into a crack and then connected with a rope. After 6 weeks they summited on theFourth of July . [National Park Service. " [http://www.nps.gov/deto/upthere.htm Devils Tower Study] ".]*
1897 : O. G. Jones leadsKern Knotts Crack (ca 5.8) on theGreat Gable inEngland *
1900 (approximately) :Oscar Eckenstein demonstrates to British climbers the concept of modern balance climbing on his eponymous boulder in Wales. ( [http://www.johngill.net] )*
1906 :Oliver Perry-Smith ,W. Huenig ,Rudolf Fehrmann climb Teufelsturm in theElbsandsteingebirge , 5.10 (with original shoulder stand around 5.8+).*
1910 :Hans Fiechtl replaces the attached ring onpitons with an eye in the body of the piton which is a design used to this day.*
1910 :Otto Herzog designs the first steelcarabiner , specifically made for climbing.*
1910 :Willo Welzenbach creates the standard numerical rating system for the amount of time typically needed to complete a route (Grades I to VI)*
1910 :Austria n development ofrappelling .*
1910 :Oliver Perry-Smith ,M. Matthaeus ,H. Wagner ascend The Grosser Falknerturm, "W. Route" in the Elbsandstein, 5.9.*
1910 to1914 :Hans Dülfer suggests using equipment to ascend otherwise unclimbable rock, devises dulferitz rapelling technique.*
1914 : Paul Preuss, an advocate ofFree climbing , coins the term "artificial aid " to describe the use of mechanical aids to progress up a rock. His rule number four (of six) stated: "The piton is an emergency aid and not the basis of a system of mountaineering."*:Note: The two principal uses of
piton s on an ascent were as "protective safeguards" (not used for actual hand or footholds - climbers refrained from putting weight on them except in the event of a fall) and as "direct aid" (used to physically assist in ascending a steep or overhanging slope rather than merely as protection). Climbers like Paul Preuss andGeoffrey Winthrop Young argued strongly against direct aid, but others of that era, includingHans Dülfer andTita Piaz , advocated using such devices as artificial aids in order to climb otherwise unscalable walls. AfterWorld War I most European climbers chose to employ artificial aid when necessary. However, from the beginning days of rock climbing as a sport, through the1940 s, another form of artificial assistance was at times employed by teams of two or more climbers: the "shoulder stand". From our current perspective it seems odd that many of those climbers who strenuously objected to hanging on a piton found the shoulder stand to be quite acceptable. Occasionally, historical climbing photos, (e.g., [http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/HistoricalClimbingImages1.html] ) illustrate this strategy, which arose from the perception that ascending a route was a team effort, with two climbers constituting one natural climbing unit. Something to keep in mind when reading of very early climbs in the 5.8 to 5.10 range.*
1914 :Siegfried Herford and companions climb the "Flake Pitch" on Central Buttress ofScafell (5.9), England's hardest climb at the time*
1919 : Sees the publication ofGuido Rey ’s book, "Alpinisme Acrobatique", on the "artificial" techniques utilizing the latest, easily available pitons and carabiners*
1920 s -1930 s :Robert Underhill andMiriam Underhill (Miriam E. O'Brien) - One of the early rock star climbing couples. Robert is remembered for introducing "European climbing techniques" to the west coast of the US through an article in the1931 Bulletin of the Sierra Club.*
1922 :Paul Illmer and party ascend the "Illmerweg" on Falkenstein (5.9/5.10), Elbsandstein*
1925 : Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer climb the "Northwest Face" of the Civetta in a day, a 3800 foot 5.9 route in the Dolomites, using only 15 pitons for protection and belays.*
1925 :Albert Ellingwood and a party of three climb the 2000 foot "Northeast Buttress" ofCrestone Needle (5.7, 14,197 feet).*
1927 :Laurent Grivel designs and sells the first rock drill and expansion bolt.*
1927 :Joe Stettner and brother, Paul, apply European techniques in the USA on their ascent of the "Stettner Ledges" on the East Face of Long's Peak.*
1927 :Fred Pigott's experiments with slinging naturalchockstones and later machine nuts, for protection atClogwyn Du'r Arddu onSnowdon , directly led to the development of the modernStopper .*
1930 :Jack Longland climbs "Javelin Blade" (5.10), Hollytree Wall, Idwal*
1931 :Emilio Comici and theDolomites . Comici is the inventor and proponent of using multi-step aid ladders, solid belays, the use of a trail/tag line, and hanging bivouacs. Pretty much the origin ofbig wall climbing and techniques. He uses them to good purpose with an ascent of the 26 pitch, 4000 foot "Northwest Face" of theCivetta .*
1934 :Pierre Allain championsbouldering atFontainebleau ; climbs "L'Angle Allain" (V2)*
1934 :Dick Leonard , teams up withJules Eichorn andBestor Robinson for the first ascent of the Eichorn Pinnacle of Cathedral Peak in the Sierra Nevada. He also creates the concept and practice of thedynamic belay at Indian Rock.*
1935 :Pierre Allain produces first soft-soled climbing shoe. Revised for extreme rock1948 *
1938 :Ricardo Cassin ascends the "Walker Spur " of theGrandes Jorasses "...perhaps the finest in existence" - Gaston Rebuffat from "The Mont Blanc Massif - The 100 Finest Routes".*
1938 : "North Face" of the Eiger ascended byHeinrich Harrer ,Fritz Kasparek ,Andreas Heckmair andWiggerl Vörg .*
1939 :David Brower and the rest of his Berkeley crew use fourbolts in the process of ascendingShip Rock in New Mexico.*
1940 s :World War II leads to the development of inexpensive army surplus pitons, carabiners and the newly-invented nylon rope.*
1946 :Rene Ferlet climbs "Marie-Rose" (V3) Fontainebleau*
1946 :John Salathe , at the age of 46, attempts to rope-solo aid the first ascent of theLost Arrow Spire , one of the most exposed features inYosemite Valley . (The protection bolt he places on that attempt was the first, or one of the first, in the valley.) He is also known for his forged pitons made from the axle of a Model A Ford.*
1952 :Lionel Terray ascends the Patagonian peak, Fitzroy, with his partnerGuido Magnone .*
1952 :Joe Brown makes the FA of "Cenotaph Corner" (5.10)Dinas Cromlech ,Wales *
1952 :John Streetly makes the FA of "Bloody Slab" (5.9)Llanberis Pass ,Wales *
1953 :Robert Paragot climbs "Le Joker" (V5) Fontainebleau*
1954 :Joe Brown andDon Whillans climb the West Face ofAiguille de Blaitiere , including the famous "Fissure Brown" (5.11), in theAlps .*
1955 :Walter Bonatti Considered one of the greatest climbs of all time, his solo first ascent of a new route on the "Southwest Pillar" of theDru takes six days.*
1955 : John Gill introduces chalk & modern dynamics; first V8 (1957 ), V9 (1959 ) ; freesolos FA "Thimble" overhang (5.12a) (1961 )Stone Crusade A Historical Guide to Bouldering In America by John Sherman]*
1958 : Warren Harding and team climb the 3,000 foot "Nose" ofEl Capitan using "siege" tactics, taking a total of 45 days over an extended period. Almost entirely aid climbing, with many bolts (125), the climb is given world-wide recognition.*
1961 :Royal Robbins ,Chuck Pratt , andTom Frost ascend the 3,000 foot "Salathe Wall" onEl Capitan . Continuous ascent by Robbins & Frost in1962 ,Spirit of the Age by Pat Ament] .*
1964 : Robbins, Pratt, Frost, andYvon Chouinard climb the "North American Wall" onEl Capitan ,*
1967 :Pete Cleveland climbs "Superpin" in theBlack Hills (5.11X)*
1968 :Royal Robbins solos the "Muir Wall" onEl Capitan ,*
1971 :Al Rouse climbs "Positron" (5.11) Gogarth, Anglesey*
1971 :Tom Frost andYvon Chouinard designHexcentric s.*
1974 -1977 :Jim Holloway establishes - inColorado - the hardestbouldering problems in the world, at the time. These include "Slapshot" (V13) and "Meathook" (V11),*
1976 :John Bachar initiates an era offree soloing with his ascent of "New Dimensions" 5.11a*
1977 :Pete Cleveland climbs "Phlogiston", atDevil's Lake , 5.13a/b or V9*
1978 :Ray Jardine invents the first modernspring loaded camming device (SLCD or cam)*
1979 :Tony Yaniro climbs "Grand Illusion", Sugarloaf (CA), 5.13b/c*
1970 s : "Sport Climbing" is developed, inFrance *
1980 :Boreal introduces the first "sticky rubber" shoe, the "Fire"*
1980 :Bill Price climbs "Cosmic Debris", Yosemite, 5.13b*
1983 : Alan Watts introduces "sport climbing" to the US, with "Tots", 5.12b atSmith Rock ,Oregon *
1985 :Wolfgang Gullich climbs "Punks in the Gym", Mt. Arapiles, (some say the first 5.14a/b some say 5.13d)*
1986 :Antoine Le Menestral climbs "La Rage de Vivre", Buoux, (many credit this as the first 5.14a) [http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.htm Hard rock climbs] ]*
1987 :Wolfgang Gullich climbs "Wallstreet", Frankenjura, 5.14b*
1990 :Ben Moon climbs "Hubble", Raven Tor, 5.14c*
1991 :Wolfgang Gullich climbs "Action Directe", Frankenjura, 5.14d*
1992 :John Middendorf and Xaver Bongard climb "The Grande Voyage", in 18 days on the world's tallest sheer rock face,Great Trango Tower , Karakoram, considered the hardest big wall climb in the world. 5.10+,A4+,WI4*
1994 :Lynn Hill makes the firstfree climbing ascent of the 3,000 foot "Nose Route" ofEl Capitan (~5.13). Although there had been many ascents of the "Nose", none had been done entirely without artificial aid. For years this had been the most coveted goal in the world of rock climbing.*
1995 :Fred Rouhling climbs "Akira", Charente, ~5.15*
1998 :Bernabe Fernandes climbs "Orujo", Malaga, ~5.15*
2001 :Chris Sharma climbs "Realization", Ceuse, ~5.15American Rock by Don Mellor]ources and notes
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