The Undercliff

The Undercliff is the name of several areas of landslip on the south coast of England. They include ones on the Isle of Wight; on the Dorset-Devon border near Lyme Regis; and on cliffs near Branscombe in East Devon. All arose from slump of harder strata over softer clay, giving rise to irregular landscapes of peaks, gullies and slipped blocks, that have become densely vegetated due to their isolation and change of land use. The Kent coast at Folkestone and Sandgate also has similar undercliff areas.

Isle of Wight

The Undercliff on the Isle of Wight skirts the southern edge of the island from St Lawrence, near Ventnor in the east, to St. Catherine's Point, the southernmost point on the island. A favourable climate here has resulted in a semi-tropical environment like no other on the Island. This unique, attractive, tumbling landscape is mainly covered by lush vegetation.

The microclimate of warm sunshine, moist air and few winter chills was recognised by leading physicians in Victorian times as a beneficial environment for sufferers of respiratory diseases. This led to the establishment by Arthur Hill Hassall of a chest hospital at Ventnor. While the hospital was closed in 1964 and demolished in 1969, its grounds were redeveloped as the twenty-two acre Ventnor Botanic Garden, which takes advantage of the same mild conditions.

The development of Ventnor and St Lawrence during the mid-19th century saw the construction of many fine houses and villas and the creation of some beautiful gardens. The Undercliff is mostly accessible by a road running through it, Undercliff Drive, from Niton to Ventnor. The low-level road between Niton and Blackgang was broken by landslips in the 20th century.

The Undercliff can been visited on foot by the Ventnor-Blackgang section of Isle of Wight Coastal Path.

There are some coastal erosion and landslip concerns associated with the Isle of Wight Undercliff region. [ [http://www.coastalwight.gov.uk/coastalcentre.htm Isle of Wight Coastal Visitors Centre] ] [ [http://www.isleofwightattractions.co.uk/Landslip.htm Landslips on The Isle of Wight] ] [ [http://stream.port.ac.uk/environment/scopac5/sow1/sow1.htm West & South Isle of Wight] , Standing Conference on Problems Associated with the Coastline.] [ [http://copranet.projects.eucc-d.de/files/000166_EUROSION_IsleofWight.pdf LUCCOMBE - BLACKGANG ISLE OF WIGHT (UNITED KINGDOM)] , Robin G. McGiness, [http://www.coastalwight.gov.uk/ Isle of Wight Centre for Coastal Environment] ] [ [http://www.english-nature.org.uk/About/teams/team_photo/Undercliff%20Matters%20Issue%202.pdf Life on the Edge] , Undercliff Matters, English Nature, Issue 2, September 2003.]

Dorset

runs through it. The footpath stretches for 7 - convert|8|mi|km and is not accessible except at each end. It is not permitted to leave the path due to the nature reserve status and the dangerous terrain. [ [http://www.swgfl.org.uk/jurassic/conservation%20web%20site/monitoring%20pages/MonitorGCR800%20Axmouth%20to%20Lyme%20Regis.htm GCR Site: 800 Axmouth to Lyme Regis] , South West Grid for Learning Trust]

Some of the landslips that created the Undercliff took place within historical record. Recorded slips took place in 1775, 1828, 1839 (the Great Slip) and 1840. The 1839 slip was especially well-documented since the geologists Buckland and Conybeare were in the area to survey it. A large tract of land below Bindon Manor and Dowlands Farm slipped, creating the features now called Goat Island and the Chasm. It took with it an area of sown wheatfield which remained sufficiently undamaged for the wheat to be harvested in 1840, when the slip was a popular visitor attraction. [http://www.devon.gov.uk/geo-ALU.pdf Geological Site - Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliffs National Nature Reserve] (PDF) Educational Register of Geological Sites, Devon County Council] "The Undercliff: a sketchbook of the Axmouth - Lyme Regis Nature Reserve" (foreword by John Fowles), Elaine Franks, Dent & Sons, 1989]

The Undercliff was formerly open rough pasture, grazed by sheep and rabbits, including features such as Donkey Green (an area of turf used for picnics and sports), Landslip Cottage (which used to sell teas to visitors), [ [http://www.english-nature.gov.uk/undercliffs/Rousdon1.pdf Rousdon Cliffs: turning back time] (PDF) Natural England leaflet] and Chapel Rock (where, according to tradition, Tudor religious dissenters met).blank] However, it become heavily overgrown in the 20th century following the cessation of sheep farming and the decline in rabbits due to myxomatosis, and access is now difficult, the terrain being treacherous due to its unstable cliffs, deep gullies and dense undergrowth.blank]

It was one of the locations for the film The French Lieutenant's Woman.

East Devon

The Hooken Undercliff is on the cliff route between Beer, Devon and Branscombe. A slump in the Chalk cliffs in 1790 separated a 10 acre tract of land, now a wooded and sheltered habitat with chalk pinnacles on the seaward side. It is reached via a steep footpath leading from the clifftop to Branscombe Beach.

Kent

The towns of Folkestone and Sandgate have undercliff areas formed by landslips. [The Sandgate Landslip, W Topley, "The Geographical Journal", Vol. 1, No. 4, Apr 1893, pp. 339-341] Folkestone Warren, since stabilised by sea defences to protect the Dover-Folkestone railway that runs at its foot, is designated a SSSI and a nature reserve. [ [http://www.whitecliffscountryside.org.uk/index.php?id_sec=107&id_sub=100 East Cliff & Warren Country Park] , The White Cliffs Countryside Project]

Undercliff Wildlife

These sections of undercliff represent some of the most important sites in the UK for the conservation of rare beetles, bees and other invertebrates. Coastal soft cliffs and slopes support a specialised assemblage of species relient on a historical continuity of bare ground, pioneer vegetation habitats, and freshwater seepages. Rare species entirely restricted to soft cliffs in the UK include the Cliff tiger beetle "Cylindera germanica", the Chine beetle "Drypta dentata", the Large mining bee "Osmia xanthomelana", and Morris's Wainscot moth "Chortodes morrisii morrisii".

References

External links

* [http://wightundercliff.mine.nu Website with old pictures of the Undercliff of the Isle of Wight]
* [http://www.shalfleet.net/back%20of%20the%20wight/blackgang%20to%20niton.htm Old views of the Undercliff]
* [http://www.swgfl.org.uk/jurassic/conservation%20web%20site/monitoring%20pages/MonitorGCR800%20Axmouth%20to%20Lyme%20Regis.htm Jurassic Coast information on the Dorset Undercliff]
* [http://www.seatonbay.com/walks/hookenundercliff.htm Hooken Undercliff]
* [http://www.english-nature.org.uk/special/nnr/nnr_details.asp?nnr_name=&C=0&Habitat=0&natural_area=&local_team=0&spotlight_reserve=0&X=&NNR_ID=10 Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliffs NNR]
* [http://www.buglife.org.uk/conservation/currentprojects/Softrockcliffs/ Buglife website] (more information about soft cliff invertebrates)