Mulligan stew (food)

Mulligan stew is an improvised dish said to have been prepared by American hobos in camps in the early 1900s.^[1]

A description of mulligan stew appeared in a 1900 newspaper:

Another traveler present described the operation of making a "mulligan." Five or six hobos join in this. One builds a fire and rustles a can. Another has to procure meat; another potatoes; one fellow pledges himself to obtain bread, and still another has to furnish onions, salt and pepper. If a chicken can be stolen, so much the better. The whole outfit is placed in the can and boiled until it is done. If one of the men is successful in procuring "Java," an oyster can is used for a coffee tank, and this is also put on the fire to boil. Incidentally, it may be mentioned that California hobos always put a "snipe" in their coffee, to give it that delicate amber color and to add to the aroma. "Snipe" is hobo for the butt end of a cigar that smokers throw down in the streets. All hobos have large quantities of snipes in their pockets, for both chewing and smoking purposes. A "beggar stew" is a "mulligan," without any meat. ^[2]

The earliest known attestation is in 1899.^[3]

"Mulligan" is a stand-in for any Irishman, and mulligan stew is simply an Irish stew that includes meat, potatoes, vegetables, and whatever else can be begged, scavenged, found or stolen.^[4] A local Appalachian variant is a burgoo, where the available ingredients might include squirrel or opossum. Only a pot and a fire are required. The hobo who put it together was known as the "mulligan mixer."

See also

Food portal

• Brunswick stew
• Burgoo
• Irish stew
• Stone soup
• Booyah, a social stew popular in parts of Minnesota and Wisconsin

References

1. ^ "said to have originated among tramps." A Dictionary of Americanisms, citing You Can't Win (1926): "He's crazy as a bed bug and the best 'mulligan' maker on the road."
2. ^ "Weary Willie on His Travels." The Sunday Oregonian, vol. 19 no. 3. Jan 21, 1900. Portland, Oregon.
3. ^ Oxford English Dictionary, Third edition, March 2003, s.v. 'mulligan', citation from the Atlantic Monthly of November 1899, p. 673
4. ^ "...made of meat and vegetables -- whatever is available or can be begged or stolen. It is an American term, honoring an Irishman whose first name has been lost but who may have made a tasty Irish stew." Robert Hendrickson, Encyclopedia of Word and Phrase Origins

• The New Food Lover's Companion, 2nd ed, (Barron's Educational Series) Sharon Tyler Herbst, ed., 1995.