Gaur, West Bengal

Infobox Indian Jurisdiction
native_name = Gour | type = city | latd = 24.869| longd = 88.133
locator_position = right
state_name = West Bengal
district = Malda
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altitude = 22
population_as_of =
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area_telephone = (91)-3512
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website =malda.nic.in/
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Gaur, or Gour, as it is spelt mostly in modern times, or Lakhnauti is a ruined city, in the Malda district of West Bengal, India, on the west bank of the Ganges river, 40 kilometers downstream from Rajmahal.

History

It is said to have been founded by the mythic figure Lakshmana, and its most ancient name was "Lakshmanavati", corrupted into "Lakhnauti". The area was known as Gauda under the rule of famous Bengali kings such as Sasanka, in the 7th century CE, and particularly the Pala dynasty, between the mid to late 8th century to 12th century CE, who were often described by opponents as the Lords of Gauda. It was also a prosperous city during the Sena dynasty's rule in Bengal. However, its most well documented history begins with its conquest in 1198 by the Muslims, who retained it as the chief seat of their power in Bengal for more than three centuries. Around the year 1350, the Afghan kings of Bengal established their independence, and transferred their seat of government to "Pandua" (qv.), also in Malda district. To build their new capital, they plundered Gaur of every monument that could be removed. When Pandua was in its turn deserted (1453), Gaur once more became the capital under the name of "Jannatabad"; it remained so as long as the Muslim kings retained their independence. In 1564 Sulaiman Kirani, a Pashtun adventurer, abandoned it for "Tanda", a place somewhat nearer the Ganges. Gaur was sacked by Sher Shah in 1539, and was occupied by Akbar's general in 1575, when Daud Shah, the last of the Afghan dynasty, refused to pay homage to the Mughal emperor. This occupation was followed by an outbreak of the plague, which completed the downfall of the city. Since then it has been little better than a heap of ruins, almost overgrown with jungle.

Geography

Gaur is located at coord|24|52|N|88|08|E| near the Indo-Bangladesh international border. It has an average elevation of 22 metres. Gaur lies in the Eastern bank of the rivers Bhagirathi and Pagla.

Historical Measurements and Statistics

The city in its prime measured 7 1/8 m. from north to south, with a breadth of 1 to 2 m. With suburbs it covered an area of 20 to 30 m²., and in the 16th century the Portuguese historian Faria y Sousa described it as containing 1,200,000 inhabitants. The ramparts of this walled city (which was surrounded by extensive suburbs) still exist; they were works of vast labor, and were on the average about convert|40|ft|m|abbr=on high, and 180 to convert|200|ft|m|abbr=on thick at the base. The facing of masonry and the buildings with which they were covered have now disappeared, and the embankments themselves are overgrown with dense jungle. The western side of the city was washed by the Ganges, and within the space enclosed by these embankments and the river stood the city of Gaur proper, with the fort containing the palace in its south-west corner. Radiating north, south and east from the city, other embankments are to be traced running through the suburbs and extending in certain directions for 30 or 40 m. Surrounding the palace is an inner embankment of similar construction to that which surrounds the city, and even more overgrown with jungle. A deep moat protects it on the outside. To the north of the outer embankment lies the Sagar Dighi, a great reservoir, 1600 yd. by 800 yd., dating from 1126.

Architecture

Fergusson in his "History of Eastern Architecture" thus describes the general architectural style of Gaur: "It is neither like that of Delhi nor Jaunpur, nor any other style, but one purely local and not without considerable merit in itself; its principal characteristic being heavy short pillars of stone supporting pointed arches and vaults in brick whereas at Jaunpore, for instance, light pillars carried horizontal architraves and flat ceilings. Owing to the lightness of the small, thin bricks, which were chiefly used in the making of Gaur, its buildings have not well withstood the ravages of time and the weather; while much of its enamelled work has been removed for the ornamentation of the surrounding cities of more modern origin. Moreover, the ruins long served as a quarry for the builders of neighboring towns and villages, till in 1900 steps were taken for their preservation by the government. The finest ruin in Gaur is that of the "Great Golden Mosque", also called "Bara Darwaza", or twelve doored (1526). An arched corridor running along the whole front of the original building is the principal portion now standing. There are eleven arches on either side of the corridor and one at each end of it, from which the mosque probably obtained its name. These arches are surmounted by eleven domes in fair preservation; the mosque had originally thirty-three."

Notable structures

The "Small Golden" or "Eunuchs' mosque", in the ancient suburb of "Firozpur", has fine carving, and is faced with stone fairly well preserved. The "Tantipar mosque" (1475 - 1480) has beautiful moulding in brick, and the "Lotan mosque" of the same period is unique in retaining its glazed tiles. The citadel, of the Muslim period, was strongly fortified with a rampart and entered through a magnificent gateway called the "Dakhil Darwaza" (1459-1474). At the south-east corner was a palace, surrounded by a wall of brick convert|66|ft|m|abbr=on high, of which a part is standing. Near by were the royal tombs. Within the citadel is the "Kadam Rasut mosque" (1530), which is still used, and close out side is a tall tower called the "Firoz Minar" (perhaps signifying tower of victory). There are a number of Muslim buildings on the banks of the Sagar Dighi, including, notably, the tomb of the saint Makhdum Shaikh Akhi Siraj (d. 1357), and in the neighborhood is a burning ghat, traditionally the only one allowed to the use of the Hindus by their Muslim conquerors, and still greatly venerated and frequented by them.

Many inscriptions of historical importance have been found in the ruins. -

See M. Martin (Buchanan Hamilton), "Eastern India", vol. iii. (1831); G. H. Ravenshaw, "Gaur" (1878); James Fergusson, "History of Indian and Eastern Architecture" (1876); "Reports of the Archaeological Surveyor", Bengal Circle (1900-1904).

Archaeological Preservation, Restoration and Excavation

The monuments of Gour are now looked after by the Archaeological Survey of India. The brick work of several monuments have been restored, though none to its early perfection or completeness. The ASI is also carrying out excavations of a mound about a kilometer from the "Chikha building" within the "Baisgaji wall" where remains of a palace are turning up.

Exhibitions on Gour

A permanent artefact and photographic exhibition highlighting the major monuments of Gour and the restoration work undertaken by the ASI is being held at the Metcalfe Hall, Kolkata. Among the exhibits are also some fine specimens of brick moulding and glazed tiles from Gour.

References

*1911

External links

* [http://banglapedia.search.com.bd/HT/L_0015.htm Gaur at Banglapedia]
* [http://www.rangan-datta.info/Gour.htm A travel article on Gour by Rangan Datta]

ee also