Kilmaurs Place

Kilmaurs Place or The Place, is an old mansion house at gbmapping|NS41234112 in Kilmaurs, East Ayrshire, Scotland. The house stands on a prominence above the Carmel Water and has a commanding view of the surrounding area. Location map
Scotland
label = Kilmaurs Place
position = right
lat = 55.637694
long = -4.523611
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caption = The location of Kilmaurs Place, East Ayrshire
width = 150

The History of Kilmaurs Place.

Introduction

The building seen today (2008) replaced "the ane ancient, strong building, belonging to the Earl of Glencairne, environed with a fair parke, called Carmell wod, from the watter of Carmell that runs by it." The Place was begun by the 9th Earl of Glencairn, William Cunninghame (1610 - 1664), Lord Chancellor of Scotland. A most extensive and imposing building was intended, however financial problems and his unexpected death resulted the abandonment of the original design; today's structure represents the remnants of the unfinished mansion.Harvey, William (1910), "Picturesque Ayrshire." Pub. Valentine & Sons, Dundee, etc. P. 80.] The edifice is said by the Royal Commission, following McNaught,McNaught, Duncan (1912). Kilmaurs Parish and Burgh. Pub. A. Gardner, Paisley. P. 103.] to be a 17th-century mansion abutting the East wall of its predecessor (NS44SW 16), contradicting the view that it is an incomplete structure, the building work having ceased upon the death of the 9th Earl of Glencairn.McNaught, Duncan (1912). "Kilmaurs Parish and Burgh". Pub. A. Gardner, Paisley. P. 93] Tranter regards it as having been erected against the east wall of its predecessor, Kilmaurs Tower.Tranter, Nigel (1965), "The Fortified House in Scotland. V. 3. South-West Scotland." Pub. Oliver & Boyd. P. 40.] Adamson in 1875 calls the building 'My Lord's Place' and goes on to say that "With the exception of the mansion-house which is in an excellent state of preservation, blocks of masonry adjacent to it are much decayed, and at first sight seem the remains of a large building that Time has shattered and almost leveled to the ground. But this is not the case. The seeming ruins are nothing more than the remnant of the walls of an elegant structure which was in the course of erection during the lifetime of the Lord Chancellor of Scotland, William, ninth" Earl of Glencairn.Adamson, Archibald R. (1875), "Rambles Round Kilmarnock." Pub. T. Stevenson, Kilmarnock. P. 167 - 168.] Hume.Hume, John R. (2004) "Vernacular Building in Ayrshire." Pub. Ayrshire Arch. & Nat. Hist. Soc. Ayrshire Monograohs 29. ISBN 0-9542253-2-5. P. 21. ] describes The Place as being built in around 1620, with a T-plan and a turnpike stair leading to the upper levels in the projecting jamb. He sees the ruins as being part of the tower that preceded the existing house.

The remainder of the Barony of Kilmaurs, together with 'The Place' was purchased by Alexander, 9th Earl of Eglinton circa 1720.Dunlop, A. I. et al. Edit. (1959) "Ayrshire at the time of Burns." Ayr Arch & Nat Hist Soc. P. 301.] The term Kilmaurs House was also used for it at this time. It was occupied at one time by a dowager Countess of Eglinton and in 1793 Captain Ralston, of Warwickhill resided in The Place.Dobie, James (1876), "Cuninghame Topographized by Timothy Pont." Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. P. 289.] McNaught, Duncan (1912). "Kilmaurs Parish and Burgh". Pub. A. Gardner, Paisley. P. 105]

The Monk's or Mack's Well water runs into the Carmel beneath Kilmaurs Place. It is said that many years ago the laird tried to prevent the local people from using the well. It dried up until the lord changed his mind, but has run continuously ever since.McNaught, Duncan (1912). "Kilmaurs Parish and Burgh". Pub. A. Gardner, Paisley.]

Morton Park, part of the old estate, was gifted to the people of Kilmaurs by Lady Sophia Montgomerie, Dowager Countess of Eglinton. It is was named however after the Morton family of Lochgreen in 1921, the official opening being on 9 September 1922Horner, Mary (2008). Oral communication to Griffith, Roger S.Ll.] .

The modern view is that the name Kilmaurs itself is derived from the Gaelic "Cil Mor Ais", meaning Hill of the Great CairnYoung, Alex F.(2001). Old Kilmaurs and Fenwick. ISBN 1-84033-150-X.] .

Kilmaurs as the Clan Cunninghame seat

Sir William Cunningham of Kilmaurs, married Margaret Denniston of Glencairn & Finlaystone in the late 14th-century and from this time Kilmaurs became increasing less significant as a family seat, Finlaystone being the preferred home. Sir William's grandson, Alexander Cunningham, was created Ist Earl of Glencairn on 28th May 1488. The Cunninghame chiefs seem to have only a slight connection with the barony of Kilmaurs after 1484 when Finlaystone appears to have become the de facto family seat. In 1545 Kerelaw Castle was the summer dwelling of the Earl of Glencairn and Finlaystone was the winter abode.Paterson, J. (1863-6). "History of the counties of Ayr and Wigton," Vol. 5. Edinburgh: James Stillie. OCLC 4352073. P. 558]

William Cunninghame of Kilmaurs (1610 - 1664), 9th Earl of Glencairn

William Cunninghame was at first a loyal supporter of Charles I and for this reason he was forced to forfeit his title to the Scottish Parliament; but in time he realized the possibility of Scotland being drawn into the feud between Charles and his Parliament in London, upon which his support for this absolute monarch quickly diminished. William's title was restored and following the execution of Charles I, he fought with the Highland clans against General Monck when Oliver Cromwell invaded Scotland.

Following a personal duel and skirmishes in the ranks he withdrew his forces. He thereafter fought Monk's columns at Dumbarton where overwhelming odds forced him to surrender on honorable terms. He returned home but was thrown into prison on suspicion of plotting, being mistrusted by Archbishop Sharp. Following the Restoration, Charles II rewarded him with the appointment of Privy Councilor. A few years later he was elevated to Lord Chancellor, during which time he started to enlarge Kilmaurs Place. Further political intrigues reduced his power and standing greatly and he died a disillusioned man. [http://www.clancunninghamusa.org/history.htm The History of the Earls of Glencairn] ] The large vaulted room in Kilmaurs Place is till known as the 'Chancellor's Hall.'

Kilmaurs Place described

The word 'Place' in Scots refers to a landed proprietor's mansion house,Warrack, Alexander (1982). "Chambers" Scots Dictionary. Pub. W. & R. Chambers. Edinburgh.] however in academic and practical terms it is a larger building which surrounds a central courtyard. This suggests that Kilmaurs Place was to have been a larger structure with a central courtyard. The term 'Palace' only acquired its present connotations at a later date.McKean, Charles (2001). "The Scottish Chateau." Sutton Publishing. ISBN 0-7509-2323-7. P. 53.] The structure consists of a main block lying roughly East-West, with a stair-wing projecting in the centre of the West wall with crow step gabling. It has two stories and an attic, with 'modern buildings' forming the former farm outbuildings. In 1956 Kilmaurs Place is described as having been restored, and in use as a farmhouse. [cite web|url=http://www.rcahms.gov.uk/|title=The RCAHMS's Canmore Website|accessdate=2008-03-26] Kilmaurs Place was listed on 14/04/1971 as a Category B historic building. [cite web|url=http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/index/historicbuildings.htm|title=The Historic Scotland Website|accessdate=2008-03-26]

Davis records that the house has a 'T' plan and is dated circa 1620. The 'ruins' appear to be the uncompleted lower floor of a 16th-century range. The Place itself is not vaulted, although the 'ruins' have a slate roofed vaulted chamber still in use by the present occupants. A fine 16th-century fireplace and carved jambs are located in the The Place itself. The original entrance was at the staircase projection, the door still being visible in the fabric of the building and an armorial panel above is still visible. The windows have been much altered as have the floor levels within the building.Davis, Michael (1991) "The Castles and Mansions of Ayrshire". Pub. privately. P. 302.] Campbell comments on the possibility of Kilmaurs Place being built upon an older castle which is no longer evident.Campbell, ThorbjØrn (2003),"Ayrshire. A Historical Guide." Pub. Birlinn, Edinburgh. ISBN 1-84158-267-0. P. 203. OCLC: 52195530] Tranter comments on the garret in the steeply pitched roof and the chamfered surrounds on some of the windows. The house belongs to the very end of the defensive period.Tranter, Nigel (1965), "The Fortified House in Scotland. V. 3. South-West Scotland." Pub. Oliver & Boyd. P. 41.]

In 1912 the remains of an avenue opening on the Townend and leading circuitously to the old frontage could still be discerned in the field adjoining the main road. The entrance off the Mill Vennel by a bridge over the Carmel Water, is said to have been formed when the frontage was changed.McNaught, Duncan (1912). "Kilmaurs Parish and Burgh." Pub. A. Gardner, Paisley. P. 94.]

1912 Gallery

Kilmaurs Place gallery 2008

Kilmaurs Castle and fortalice

Adamson relates in 1875 that the ancient castle was in the vicinity of Jock's or Jack's Thorn farm, and indeed several old people from Kilmaurs in 1875 remembered playing amongst the ruined remnants of masonry which occupied the site of this old castle of the Cunninghames.Adamson, Archibald R. (1875), "Rambles Round Kilmarnock." Pub. T. Stevenson, Kilmarnock. P. 168.] Metal detectorists have found medieval coins in this area amongst old unhewn building or foundation stones.

Dobie in 1874 that the old baronial residence was about a mile South-East of Kilmaurs and ruins could still be pointed out on the farm of Jock's Thorn. He goes on to say that this could have been the Villam de Cunninghame, the original residence and first possession of this ancient family.Dobie, James (1876), "Cuninghame Topographized by Timothy Pont." Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. P. 289.] Lambroughton is another possible site.

Davis records that the local farmer has noted that pottery and stones are brought up by ploughing at an elevated spot (NS 417 411) off the old entrance to Jock's Thorn farm at a point East of both Tour and Jock's Thorn.Davis, Michael (1991) "The Castles and Mansions of Ayrshire". Pub. privately. P. 301.]

McNaught records that a charter of 1498 refers to "the Castle and Fortalice of the Braony and lands of Kilmaweris" (sic). The explanation for the Kilmaurs Place / Jock's Thorn locations of Kilmaurs Castle is that the prime location for a castle was on the eminence now occupied by Kilmaurs Place and this was the baronial residence, whilst Jock's Thorn was a separate defensive structure, a fortalice, usually more a place for the protection of the common people than a residence for the laird.Mackenzie, W. Mackay (1927). "The Mediaeval Castle in Scotland." Pub. Methuen & Co. Ltd., London.] Stewarton shows this situation with Corsehill Castle as the manorial residence and the Templehouse fortalice as the place for the protection of the tenantry.McNaught, Duncan (1912). "Kilmaurs Parish and Burgh". Pub. A. Gardner, Paisley. P. 104 - 105.]

The Barony of Kilmaurs

The Barony of Kilmaurs was composed of the lands of Buston (now Buiston), Fleuris (now Floors), Lambroughton, Whyrrig, now Wheatrig and previously QuhytrigeCommisariot of Glasgow Wills from the Commissariot of Glasgow 1547] , and Southwick or Southuck (now South Hook). South Hook (previously also Southeuck or Seurnbenck) is near Knockentiber and was part of the tenement of Lambroughton within the barony.

Kilmaurs Barony mill

The mill, demolished in the late 1980s, was early 19th century in date and was built by the Earl of Eglinton.Beattie, Robert (1993), "Kilmaurs Past and Present." Pub. Kilmaurs History Society. P. 101.] It was a large 3-storey and attic, 6-bay rubble building, on a T-plan, with a kiln with roof-ridge ventilator at one end. There was an internal overshot wheel. The mill worked until 1966.Hume, John R. (2004) "Vernacular Building in Ayrshire." Pub. Ayrshire Arch. & Nat. Hist. Soc. Ayrshire Monograohs 29. ISBN 0-9542253-2-5. P. 61. ] In 1985 it was regarded as being probably the last complete example of a lowland Scottish large estate mill. [http://www.rcahms.gov.uk/ RCAHMS Canmore Site with on line photographs] ] Every barony had a thirled mill held by the laird which his tenant farmers had to use, and the nearby Kilmaurs Mill on the Carmel Water dated back to at least the early 1600s as shown by old maps of the area. A mill on the site of old Kilmaurs Mill may therefore have been the one directly associated with the laird at the The Place. An unusual feature of this old mill was a carved stone showing a millstone drive spider or rind (often used on Miller's tombstones as a symbol of the milling trade) on which the upper grindstone rested, a ring of rope, a bill for dressing millstones, and a grain shovel. This stone still survives at the site of the old mill, built into a wall.

Local names such as 'Ladeside' recall the mill. The old lade, much of its course still evident, took its water from the Carmel Water close to the road junction onto the Old Stewarton Road. The remains of the old mill pond dam are still visible (2008), but the pond itself has long been filled in on the site that became a plant nursery at Millholm.

References

External links

* [http://www.197aerial.co.uk/kilmaurs_place.htm Aerial photograph of Kilmaurs Place.]