- Plainweave
In
embroidery , plainweave is a technical category of woven base fabrics that are suitable for working certain varieties of embroidery. Plainweave fabrics have a tight weave and individual threads are not readily visible.Surface embroidery may be performed on plainweave, such as crewel work,goldwork ,stumpwork ,cutwork , andcandlewicking . [Reader's Digest, p. 10.]Embroideries that can be performed on plainweave do not require the crafter to perform stitches at a precise thread count. Most woven fabrics that were not specifically manufactured for the purpose of embroidery qualify as plainweave. [Ibid., p. 10.] Traditionally,
linen plainweave is the preferred fabric for crewel embroidery. Other plainweaves suitable for crewel includedenim ,sailcloth ,ticking , andorgandy when worked inwool . [Wilson, p. 15.]Plainweave uses
Historic eighteenth century crewel embroidery preferentially used a linen and
cotton twill plainweave because it wore well. The fabric's diagonal rib was regarded as an esthetically pleasing contrast to the embroidery, although sometimes it was brushed before working to create a smoother nap. This material, known as "fustian" originated inFustât in ancient times and was probably the forerunner ofvelvet . [Ibid., p. 15.]Almost any plainweave fabric can be made suitable for goldwork and other metal embroidery. Fine linen is among the easiest to work with. Silk has been the preferred fabric historically in clerical and royal garments to achieve a shiny and sumptuous effect. Lightweight or stretchy plainweaves may require stabilization to prevent puckering. Traditionally a backing of linen or
muslin would be used as a stabilizing element. [Ibid., pp. 188-189.] Dressmaker's interlining and water-soluble paper are contemporary alternatives. [Reader's Digest, p. 10.]Whitework may be worked on either plainweave or counted thread fabric. When worked on plainweave it is known as "fine white". Organdy, sheerDacron , lawn,batiste , muslin, net, and sheer muslin and wool are suitable plainweaves for this type of embroidery. [Wilson, pp. 258-259, 272-273.]Stumpwork embroidery can be done on nearly any fabric including silk, satin, felt, linen, cotton, and wool. [Ibid., p. 307.]Notes
References
*Erica Wilson, "Erica Wilson's Embroidery Book", New York:Scribner, 1973. SBN 684-10655-8
*The Reader's Digest Association, "Complete Guide to Embroidery Stitches", Pleasantville, New York: Marabout, 2004. ISBN 0-7621-0658-1
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