Mess jacket (civil)

Mess jacket (civil)

The civil mess jacket is a type of jacket that ends at the waist, has double breasting but doesn’t fasten. It was borrowed from the military mess dress during the 1930s as an alternative to the white dinner jacket in hot and tropical weather for black tie occasions. Just as fast as it rose in fame and started to be a common garment in the American gentlemen’s wardrobe, it fell out of fashion as soon as men realised the un-favouring look it gave to non-athletic bodies and the white dinner jacket became widely accepted.

History

The mess jacket was originally the top part of the formal military wear known as mess dress. The mess dress is the military formal eveningwear equivalent for the civilian white tie dress. Civilians first adopted the mess jacket in 1933 to wear in the hot and tropical weather of Palm Beach. But by 1936 the mess jacket had dissipated, allowing the white, off-white and Burma coloured dinner jackets to settle as the one appropriate black tie form for hot weather.

Style

In the beginning, the mess jackets were worn in the same style by everyone. According to the Esquire Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men’s Fashions,

“[the mess jackets were] made in white linen or cotton gabardine and worn with high-waisted lightweight black dress trousers, a stiff-bosom shirt, a narrow cummerbund in black, bright red, or dark blue, a wing collar, and a black butterfly bow tie.”

The jackets had shawl or peak lapels, the later being the most common form. The style in which they were worn didn’t undergo many variations during its existence: the dress trousers were occasionally in midnight blue, bowties were sometimes in bat wing style, the collar was usually turndown for a more informal look but not necessary, and patent leather oxford shoes were more common than opera pumps. The civil mess jackets were always white.

The mess jackets soon fell out of fashion. This is due to two main reasons. One is that while the jacket had an elegant appearance it barely looked elegant on men, for its cut at the waist caused its end to be cut inwards, but this only worked well with athletic and slim fit. If it wasn’t the case, the mess jacket could look ridiculously unfitting. The other reason is that the popularity of the mess jacket had gone on to be worn by bellhops and waiters, leading the scrupulous dandies of the era to abandon the garment.

References


Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.

Игры ⚽ Поможем написать курсовую

Look at other dictionaries:

  • Civil Air Patrol — Active 1 December 1941 Present Country …   Wikipedia

  • Army Service Uniform — The U.S. Army service uniform is the military uniform worn by personnel in situations in which non formal dress is called for. It is worn in most workday situations in which business dress would be called for. It can be worn at most public and… …   Wikipedia

  • Distinctive unit insignia — A soldier inventories distinctive unit insignia devices at the Charles C. Carson Center for Mortuary Affairs. A Distinctive Unit Insignia (DUI) is a metal heraldic device worn by soldiers in the United States Army. The DUI design is derived from… …   Wikipedia

  • Uniforms of the United States Marine Corps — The Uniforms of the United States Marine Corps serve to distinguish Marines from members of other services. Among current uniforms in the United States Armed Forces, the Marines uniforms have been in service the longest. The Marine Dress Blue… …   Wikipedia

  • Doublet (clothing) — For other uses, see Doublet (disambiguation). The unidentified tailor in Giovanni Battista Moroni s famous portrait of ca 1570 is in doublet and lined and stuffed ( bombasted ) hose. A doublet is a man s snug fitting buttoned jacket that is… …   Wikipedia

  • Victoria Cross — For the abbreviation, see VC. For other uses, see Victoria Cross (disambiguation). Victoria Cross …   Wikipedia

  • Royal Military College of Canada — Motto Truth, Duty, Valour Established 1876 Type …   Wikipedia

  • Royal Military College Saint-Jean — Coordinates: 45°17′50.30″N 73°16′0.12″W / 45.297306°N 73.2667°W / 45.297306; 73.2667 …   Wikipedia

  • Black tie — This article is about the dress code. For the country rock band, see Black Tie (band). Western dress codes Formal wear Formal Semi formal (including black tie) Informal Smart casual Business casual Casual Active attire …   Wikipedia

  • United States Coast Guard — portal Active 4 August 1790–present …   Wikipedia

Share the article and excerpts

Direct link
Do a right-click on the link above
and select “Copy Link”