Ittar

Ittar or Attar or itr is a natural perfumes extracted from the juices of flowers like the jasmine, rose or sandal, herbs, spices, barks in to base oil such as Sandalwood oil. Sandalwood oil is used as base in making Attar while western perfumes, are prepared in alcohol as solvent or base. Attars are natural perfumes for daily use, but its not injurious to health as alcohol and suitable for both man and women.

Since ancient times, Asian Middle Eastern peoples have used attars as a perfumes. If you require natural perfumes, attar is a as true natural perfumes. Owing to natural origin it is suitable for all types skin. It is also useful in curing various skin diseases, various cosmetics, as it helps in improving skin tone and texture.

It was popular with nobles of India. Jasmine ittar was the favourite perfume of the Nizams of Hyderabad state. The Maharjas of the erstwhile states of Gwalior, Patiala, Darbhanga, Mysore and even Maharaja Ranjit Singh are counted amongst the most famous patrons of ittars.

Its customary practice in nobility to offer "ittar" to their guests at the time of their departure. The ittars are in beautiful tiny crystal cut bottles called as "itardans", because of its concentrated form, Ittar is sold in tiny bottles.

Ittar figured in the romantic stories of the bygone era. Its patrons included great poets like the legendary Mirza Ghalib. Whenever Ghalib met his beloved in winters, he smeared his hands and face with "attar hina".

Uttar Pradesh in the north and Hyderabad in the south are the few regions in the country where it is still made.

Most of the ittars are alcohol-free and are used by devout Muslims as one of the most beloved of materialistic things of this world to Muhammad, salallahu 'alayhi wasallam, was ittar. They are also used by Hindu priests, which is offered as prasad and sprinkled on the devotees.

History

The word 'Attar', 'ittar' or 'othr' is basically an Arabic word which means 'scent'; this in turn is believed to have been derived from the Sanskrit word "Sugandha", meaning 'aromatic'. The earliest distillation of Attar was mentioned in the Ayurvedic text Charaka Samhita.

The story of Indian perfumes is as old as the civilization itself. Archaeological evidence shows the earliest inhabitants of the Indian subcontinent held plants in great reverence. With the passage of time, scented oils were extracted by pressing,pulverizing or distilling aromatic vegetal and animal produce. Such processes led to the development of the art of alchemy, the earliest indications of which are available from the perfume jars and terracotta containers of the Indus Valley civilization. That the art has survived for centuries speaks volumes for the Indian perfumes.

Integrated into India's daily life, scented plants are used to celebrate every aspect of Indian culture, from the ritual to the culinary, from the celibate to the erotic. Vedas mentioned a combination of numerous herbs, twigs, barks and flowers as offering to Gods in yagnas.

Archaeological excavations have revealed round copper stills, used for making attars, that are at least five-thousand years old. These stills are called "degs". Following the seasons of the flowers, traditional attar-makers, with their degs, traveled all over India to make their attars on-the-spot. Even now, rural areas often lack good roads to quickly transport the harvested flowers, and a few traditional attar-makers still travel with their degs to be close to the harvest. Their equipment has changed little, if at all, in the last five thousand years.

In Ain-e-Akbari, Abul Fazal, has mentioned that Akbar used ittar daily and burnt incense sticks in gold and silver censers. A princess’s toilette was incomplete without incense and attar. A very popular ittar with the Mughal princes was "ood", prepared in Assam.

Preparation

The Ittars are made traditionally by "Degs & Bhapka system", which is a hydro distillation process. The still is heated by lighting a fire with the help of wood or cow dung. The temperature and speed of the distillation is controlled by regulating the fire.

The distillation is managed by highly skilled workers called "Dighaa", who knows when the correct quantity of vapours have condensed inside the receiver by feeling the round part of the receiver under water. The water in the tank is changed continuously to prevent the temperature rising too high. Managing the still is highly skilled job, as the operator must keep the boiling at a level that matches the condensation in the receiver, so as to keep the pressure under control. When the desired quantity of vapour is condensed, the Dighaa rubs a wet cloth around the body of the still for a temporary pause in distillation and the filled receiver is replaced by another receiver. If necessary, the second may be replaced by a third receiver. The receiver is then allowed to cool and may remain idle for one or two days depending on the pressure of work.

The mixture of oil and water is then separated either directly form the receiver through a hole at the bottom or pouring the whole mixture in an open trough, after the separation, the water is removed from an opening at the bottom, and the same is cohobated. The base material remains in the receiver.

After desired concentration of the ittar is reached, then it is poured into leather bottles for sedimentation and removal of moisture. Sometimes liquid paraffin is used for making cheaper attars. The mouth of the receiver is sealed by wrapping coarse cloth around the bamboo pipe and pushing it inside the condenser. The receiver may contain up to 5-10 kilos of base materials and is kept in a small water tank.

Types of Attars

The attars may be broadly categorized into following types on flvaour or ingredients used.

Floral Attars – Attars manufactured from single species of flower are coming under this category. These are :-

* Gulab ex Rosa damascena or Rosa Edword

* Kewra ex Pandanus odoratissimus

* Motia ex Jasminum sambac

* Gulhina ex lawsonia inermis

* Chameli ex Jasminum grandiflorum

* Kadam ex Anthoephalus cadamba

Herbal and Spicy Attar is manufactured from combination of floral, herbal & spices come under this category. Hina and its various forms viz., Shamama, Shamam –tul – Amber, Musk Amber and Musk Hina.

The some attars which are neither floral nor herbal also come under this category.

Attar Mitti falls under this category and is produced by distillation of baked earth over base material.

Uses

The Indian attars in the past was used by the elite, particularly kings and queens. But, attars industry got a new dimension form the field of fragrance to flavour and today it is used as;

1. Pan Masala and Gutka is the largest consumer of Indian attars. The reason for using it is its extraordinary tenacity along with characteristic to withstand with tobacco note. The attars used are rose, Kewra, Mehndi, Hina, Shamama, Mitti, Marigold etc.

2. Tobacco is relatively smaller segment for attar consumption as compared to above industry. The attars used are mainly kewra & Rose. Along with Pan masala & Gutkha it contributes to more the 75% of attar consumption.

3. betel nut is relatively smaller segment for attar consumption as compared to above two industry. The attars used are mainly Kewra & Rose.

4. It is used by people as a personal perfume, particularly by Muslims due to absence of alcohol.

5. Attars does have the application in pharmaceutical industry too.

6. Attars of Rose & Kewra are used in traditional Indian sweets, for imparting flavour.

Safety & Application of Attar

The most common method of applying Attar practised by them was to rub a small amount of oil over the extended right hand palm down. This is also the etiquettes of receiving Ittar offered by someone. The Ittar oil is then rubbed over the beard, forehead etc. The second method is used when a physical or emotional condition is being treated. Put one or two drops of Ittar oil on a small piece of cotton (about the size of the end of a cotton bud or swab) then insert the cotton piece in the ridge like edge of the ear known as the crest of helix, (please note DO NOT insert inside the ear hole. This is done only in the right ear, where at this point of placement is five cranial nerves come together and form a nerve mass or ganglia (a nerve centre) this is an important point and used in many alternative medicines such as Chinese acupuncture.

A major difference between synthetic perfumes and attar is that the oil-based attar is worn directly on your body. The inside of the wrist, behind the ears, the inside of elbow joints, back of the neck and a few other imaginative parts of your anatomy are directly dabbed with itr.

Experts say that the smell of the attar is likely to stay the longest on cottons rather than synthetic cloth. And some attars will evaporate in the heat of summer if not carefully applied. Which is why it is advisable to place a swab of cotton inside the ear. The fragrance will linger on the clothes even after a wash.

A small drop is enough to be used as a fragrance on the body. A few drops can be added to water and used with aromatic vapour lamps. A few drops of some Attars are used with cold drinks to give fragrance and quality to cold milk. The warm notes of the spicy hina prepared from musk and saffron have the greatness of smelling different on every skin.

Although Attars are made from natural substances it has been found that some Attars have allergic reactions to skins of few people. Hence before application of Attars it is advised to test the Attar on skin for allergy, rash development. Owing to its high concentration form it isnot recommended for childrens. Do not take Attar oils internally. Do not use Attars directly on the skin. Dilute with a carrier medium. Keep Attar oils away from the eyes and mucous membranes. Please keep all Attar oils out of reach of children and pets. Always check with specific safety data before using a new attar oil, especially with regard to toxicity levels, phototoxicity, dermal irritation and sensitization.

torage & Shelf life

The Attar has a permanent shelf life and some of the Attars become stronger and smell better when they are older.

Medicinal Uses

Lemon oil taken internally or sniffed, is good for diabetes, asthma, boils and varicose veins. Three drops of sweet marjoram taken with a little jaggery cures migraine and hangovers. Nausea and vomiting are immediately controlled by petitgren oil. The simplest example of aromatherapy is attar Gill or Itr-e-khaki, (sondhi mitti) drawn from mud, which has the aroma of the first monsoon showers and can cure blood pressure and the flow of blood through nose owing to intense heat.

Indian itr is increasingly being used for aromatherapy these days. The floral extracts with oil base can be extensively marketed for aromatherapy. Jasmine extract is useful in cases of stress, hypertension and treating skin ailments. Inhaling sandalwood oil lessens stress and can stop vomiting. Applying it on the chest and throat cures dry cough. Its curative properties extend to skin ailments as well. Marigold extract is an old medicine meant to heal stubborn wounds. It has excellent antiseptic properties. Heena is known for its heat inducing qualities and if used on quilts during winters, it is known to provide extra warmth. If inhaled during summer it can lead to nasal bleeding as well.

Rose Attar

Rose (Gulab) ittar's aroma wards off depressions and brings vibrancy to the user. This ittar is widely used in puja of Lord Ganesha. It also ignites a desire for romance and love. People unable to come to terms with loss of a loved one may carry sadness in their heart for years. When the body (heart or mind) are out of balance, we become more vulnerable to illness. Gulab ittar may help gently dissolve blockages and feelings of disappointment and pain.

Pink Rose – ‘Eternal Love’: Queen of the essential oils; a soft fragrance, opens the heart centre, gives a sense of security and spiritual unison. Reduces anger. Balances all Doshas.

* Simultaneous on the physical, emotional and spiritual realms-uplifting, Cleansing and purifying liver · It helps to ease depression, frigidity, nervous tension, Headache, Relieves shock, Palpitations, Poor circulation, Nausea, Mildly sedative, Antidepressant, Anti inflammatory remedy, Enhances immunity, Helping to restrain the development of infections through their cleansing action, Runny nose and blocked bronchial tubes, restoring effect on the nervous system, Relieur insomnie, de fatigue, soothe irritability.

Heena Attar

Amber Heena – ‘Dynamic’: For ceremonies, prayers, clairvoyance and protection from disturbing influences. Promotes the energy of the 3rd Chakra.

* It is known to provide extra heating.
* It provides relive to the user when one suffers with insomnia

Musk Attar

In Hindi it is known as Musk-a-amber. It is derived from the juice of mixture of flowers. It is used mostly in tantrik rites. Diyas containing this ittar mixed in oil are lit to attract goddess Laxmi.This ittar is also used successfully by males who want to woo the opposite sex. This is said to give an unfair advance to a male

Champa Attar

‘Romance’: A romantic, sweet-smelling and aphrodisiac fragrance. Promotes the energy of the 1st & 4th Chakras.

* Dyspepsia, Nausea, Fever, Liquid elixirs useful in treating gonorrhea, Renal diseases, Diseases of the head, Attar is helpful in treating sub-acute rheumatism, Vertigo, Gout, Relieving common headache.

andalwood

Chandan – ‘Worship’: For Tantra and worship. A relaxing essence that removes fear and evokes an attitude of surrender. Promotes the energy of the 6th & 7th Chakras.

Its aroma is considered auspicious in all religious ceremonies.

It should be used while performing the rites in daily puja. Its fragrance brings peace and tranquility to mind and soul. Beneficial for people suffering from hypertension. Sandalwood oil lessens stress, can stop vomiting, Applying it on the chest and throat cures dry cough, curative properties extend to skin ailments, Helps to relieve depression, Stress, Anxiety, Travel sickness, Heals inflamed dry, Excites the senses

Kewda Attar

‘Creative Mind’: A cooling essence that cultivates creativity. Promotes the energy of the 1st & 2nd Chakras.

* It provides relive to the user when one suffers with insomnia

Khus Attar

Khus (Ushir) – ‘Cool Breeze’: A cooling and relaxing fragrance for establishing harmony between body and mind. Balances Kapha and Pitta.

Mitti Attar

‘Grounding’: An earthy fragrance that gives a sense of strength and support. Cultivates stability and a quiet mind.

Mix Flowers Attar

‘Valley of Flowers’: A wonderfully fresh, inspiring and attractive floral scent. Promotes the energy of the 4th & 5th Chakras.

Mogra/Jasmine/Motia Attar

‘Divine’: A vibrant fragrance, developing a sense of balance, confidence, attractiveness and mental stimulation. Promotes the energy of the 5th & 6th Chakras.‘Peace’: A calming fragrance that increases intimacy and friendship. Promotes the energy of the 4th & 5th Chakras.Ittar of (Motia)(Mogra) (Jasmine) is used during the worship of Lord Shiva. It is considered to be connected with the aroma of deep forests of lower Himalaya region where Lord Shiva used to move with his followers.

Its smell helps in reaching the inner self and is thus used during meditation to get deeper within fast and for lasting peace with one’s own self. People suffering from sleeplessness use it to get rid of their problem and are able to sleep fast. Men are automatically attracted towards women who use this ittar.

* Uplift moods, Treating skin ailments, Hypertension, Stress, Lessen depression

Chameli Attar

‘Protection’: Increases vitality and creates a strong protective energy against disturbing influences. For Tantra. Promotes the energy of the 2nd, 5th & 6th Chakras.This ittar is used in headaches and for getting relief from a heavy head feeling which result from excessive noise and general botheration. This ittar is also used in the worship of Lord Krishna. It is used for giving fragrance to the water with which Lord Krishna is given bath with. In all the rituals connected with Lord Krishna this is extensively used.

Patchouli Attar

‘Walk in the Woods’: A warm aphrodisiac fragrance that invokes friendship and love. Promotes the energy of the 3rd & 5th Chakras.

Attar of Roses

"Main Article": Rose oil
Attar of roses is essentially an oil extracted from the petals of various types of rose.

Manufacturers

These are some of the major Ittar/Attar manufacturers website in India:

* [http://www.indianincense.in Indian Incense]

Trivia

Amongst the Indian dignitaries is former President Shanker Dayal Sharma, who is a connoisseur of ittar, Chameli. Another President, Dr S Radhakrishnan, was fond of the light fragrance of Majuma. Indira Gandhi used attar Heena in winters. Sonia Gandhi likes Attar Jasmine. Andhra Pradesh Ex-Chief Minister Chandrababu Naidu has a weakness for attar khus. Naomi Campbell, Celebrity model, was seen trying out mehndi and attar.

References

*Studies in Indian Cultural History, by "P.K.Gode", Vol. I, Year 1961, Hoshiarpur.
*Attars of India - A Unique Aroma by "J. N. Kapoor" Perfumer & Flavorist Jan/Feb 1991, Pages 21-24.
*Indian attars by "Christopher Mcmohan" International Journal of Aromatherapy, Volume 7, Issue 4, 1996, Pages 10-13.
* India Where Attars Originated by "Omprakash Yemul" India Perspectives, March 2004 Page 40.
* Traditional system for the production of kewda essential oil and attar by "D K Mohapatra & S Sahoo" Indian Journal of traditional Knowledge, Vol 6(3), July 2007 Pages 399 - 402.
*Traditional method of Chuli oil extraction in Ladakh by "Deepa H Dwivedi & Sanjai K Dwivedi" Indian Journal of traditional Knowledge, Vol 6(3), July 2007, Pages 403 - 405.
*Ecology and traditional technology of screw pine perfume industry in coastal Orissa by "Deenabandhu Sahu & Malaya Kumar Misra" Indian Journal of traditional Knowledge, Vol 6(3), July 2007.
*Kewda Perfume Industry in India 1 by P. K. Dutta, H. O. Saxena and M. Brahmam Economic Botany, Vol 41(3), July 1987, Pages 403 - 410.
*Rose cultivation for Attar production in Bulgaria [manufacturing of Scent] by Rai B. Indian Horticulture (India) Vol 29(4), Mar 1985, Pages 13- 18.

ee also

Fragrance and Flavour Development Centre Kannuj UP India [http://www.ffdcindia.org/default.htm] Central Institute of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants Lucknow India [http://www.cimap.res.in/] Essential Oil Association of India [http://eoai.in/] Flavours & Fragrence Association of India [http://www.fafai.org/] Natural Attar Industries Association of India

External links

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Attar_of_roses] Rose Oil
* [http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/articleshow/1390546859.cms+ittar&hl=en] Scent of a woman
* [http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/articleshow/743181.cms] An indigenous fragrance you want to linger on

* [http://www.the-south-asian.com/May-June2003/Ittar_shop.htm] The Oldest 'Ittar' Shop by Sanjay Austa