Karen Hess

Karen Loft HessThough "New York Times", "Toronto Star", and "The Independent" give "Lost," the "Los Angeles Times" correctly gives "Loft." The New York Times noted her given name was pronounced "CAR-inn" per the Scandinavian manner.] (November 11 1918 – May 15 2007) was an American culinary historian. Her 1977 book "The Taste of America" co-authored with her late husband, John L. Hess, established them as anti-establishment members of the culinary world.

Life and career

Born in Blair, Nebraska, she attended Humboldt State University in Arcata, California, where she majored in music.Brock, Wendell. A Cook's Tour of History, "The Atlanta Journal-Constitution", Sunday, March 15, 1998, (Dixie Living section, page M1/M3)] Her husband was later a journalist (and for a short time in 1973-1974, food editor/critic) for the "New York Times". Among their targets were celebrity chefs Craig Claiborne, James Beard and Julia Child. Hess sought to bring a historic rigor to cooking. The "New York Times" said in her obituary: "Ms. Hess, known as a kind but combative personality, did not shrink from taking on the icons of American cookery, who she felt presented a false picture not only of the quality of American food and cooking but also of its history."Asimov, Eric (May 19, 2007). [http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/19/dining/19hess.html Karen Hess, 88, Dies; Culinary Historian Who Challenged Standards.] "New York Times"]

She encouraged the publication of—and wrote the introduction/historical notes for—a facsimile of the rare second edition of "American Cookery" (Applewood Books, 1996), the first known American cookbook, written by Amelia Simmons, and originally published in 1796.Publisher's acknowledgment on copyright page of "American Cookery" by Amelia Simmons [1796] . Applewood Books, 1996 ISBN 978-1557094391] She also annotated "What Mrs. Fisher Knows about Old Southern Cooking" (Applewood Books, 1995), one of the oldest known African-American cookbooks, originally published in 1881.Rourke, Mary (May 22, 2007). [http://www.latimes.com/news/printedition/california/la-me-hess22may22,1,4992562.story Karen Hess, 88; helped create field of food history.] "Los Angeles Times"]

In 1985, Hess became one of the founding members of The Culinary Historians of New York, an association of food professionals, historians, and others interested in studying and writing on the history of food. On October 19, 2004, The Culinary Historians of New York presented her with their first annual Amelia Award, an award which recognizes excellence in culinary history.Smith, Andrew F. (Spring 2005). [http://www.culinaryhistoriansny.org/newsletters/newsletters_web/Spring_2005.pdf A Tribute to Karen Hess.] "Culinary Historians of New York" Vol. 18, No. 2]

In 2006, she was listed in the eighth annual Saveur 100, from Saveur Magazine, in an article by Shane Mitchell entitled "The Grandest Dame of American Culinary History". Mitchell says that although Hess came from Nebraska, her "soul must be Southern." Hess's "The Carolina Rice Kitchen" is the story of how rice from Africa became a South Carolina Low Country staple, as well as how the African cooks shaped Southern cooking.cite journal |last=Mitchell |first=Shane |authorlink= |coauthors= |year=2006|month= |title=Grandest Dame of American Culinary History |journal=Saveur |volume= |issue=January/February 2006 Special Issue|pages=Page 80 |id= |url= |accessdate= |quote= ]

Hess died in New York City (in Manhattan) after suffering a stroke the week before.Staff report (May 21, 2007). [http://www.thestar.com/News/article/216043 Culinary historian insisted on accuracy in food writing.] "Toronto Star"]

Bibliography

As annotator/editor

*"English Bread & Yeast Cookery", by Elizabeth David. American Edition with notes by Karen Hess, New York: Viking Press, 1980, ISBN 978-0670296538
*"Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery". Columbia University Press, 1981, ISBN 978-0231049306
*"Mary Randolph’s 'Virginia Housewife"'. University of South Carolina Press, 1983, ISBN 978-0872494237
*"What Mrs. Fisher Knows about Old Southern Cooking" Applewood Books, 1995, ISBN 978-1557094032
*"American Cookery" by Amelia Simmons [1796] , Applewood Books, 1996, ISBN 978-1557094391
*"The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy" [1805] by Mrs. Hannah Glasse. Facsimile edition annotated by Karen Hess, Applewood Books (1998) ISBN 978-1557094629

As author

*"The Taste of America". University of Illinois Press, 1977, ISBN 978-0872496408 Co-authored with John L. Hess
*"The Carolina Rice Kitchen: The African Connection". University of South Carolina Press, 1992, ISBN 978-1570032080

References

External links

* [http://www.press.uillinois.edu/s00/hess.html The Taste of America] via University of Illinois Press
* [http://savannahnow.com/node/294956 Karen Hess: A culinary giant's legacy] Obituary by Damon Lee Fowler in the "Savannah Morning News", May 30, 2007 [Savannah, Georgia, USA]