Siula Grande

Infobox Mountain
Name = Siula Grande (Siulá grande, in Spanish)
Photo = Siula grande.jpg
Caption =
Elevation = 6,344 m (20,814 ft)
Location = Peru
Range = Cordillera Huayhuash
Prominence =
Coordinates = coord|10|17|S|76|53|W|type:mountain|display=inline,title
Topographic

Type =
Age =
Last eruption =
First ascent = 1936
Easiest route = glacier/snow/ice climb

Siula Grande is a mountain in the Cordillera Huayhuash, in the Peruvian Andes. It is 6344 m high and has a subpeak Siula Chico 6260 m high.Lambert]

It was made famous by the book "Touching the Void" by Joe Simpson, about an ascent and subsequent harrowing descent of the mountain by him and Simon Yates in 1985. The book was made into a film of the same title in 2003. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose the North Ridge (first descended in 1936 by a German team) for their descent, which was made almost impossible by horrible weather. All subsequent climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled back down the face. As of 2002 the south face has been unconquered.

This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made.
* 1936 July 28 "North Ridge" by Arnold Awerzger and Erwin Schneider from Germany. [Sturm page 322] American Alpine Journal 2002 page 305]
* 1966 June 21 fourth ascent by Obster, Schulz and M. Sturm via the North ridge enroute to Siula Chico [Sturm page 325]
* 1985 "West Face" by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates
* 1999 "Peru West Face Touching The Void" (new route) by Carlos Buhler. (Buhler's route followed the Yates/Simpson route for much of the ascent, and Buhler christened it "Avoiding The Touch")
* 2001 July 17 "Noches de "Juerga", west face
* 2002 July 3 "Northeast Face, Los Rapidos" by Slovenes Marjan Kovač and Pavle Kozjek [cite web |url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP01/climbing-note-kojzek |title=Siula Grande |author=Pavle Kojzek |publisher=alpinist.com |date=2002-12-01 |accessdate=2007-12-01] cite web |url=http://www.vertimania.com.mx/noticias/nueva_ruta_en_la_pared_noreste_del_Siula.htm |title=Nueva ruta en la pared noreste del Siula Grande |publisher=Vertimania |date=2002 |language=Spanish |accessdate=2007-12-01]
* 2002 August "Mammut Tracks", west face, by Rogier van Rijn and Eva Oomen

iula Chico

Siula Chico is a subpeak about 6260 metre high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately 6000 metre col. Mountaineers considered the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so conquered by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition. [Sturm page 324] Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in 2007 May.

ee also

*Touching the Void
*List of Mountains in Peru

References

*cite web |url=http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1967/Sturm_SiulaChi1967_322-325.pdf |title=The Road to Siula Chico |author=Manfred Sturm |coauthor=Translator: H. Adams Carter |publisher=Deutscher Alpenverein |accessdate=2007-12-01
*cite web |url=http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/2002/294_peru_aaj2002.pdf |title=Peru |date=2002 |publisher=American Alpine Journal |accessdate=2007-12-01
*cite web |url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-peru-siula-chico-west |title=FIRST ASCENT OF SIULA CHICO'S WEST FACE |date=2007-07-11 |author=Erik Lambert |publisher=alpinist.com |accessdate=2007-12-01

Notes

External links

* - photos