- François Pierre La Varenne
François Pierre de la Varenne (1618 –
Dijon 1678), Burgundian by birth, was the author of "Le cuisinier françois" (1651), the founding text of modernFrench cuisine . La Varenne broke with the Italian traditions that had revolutionized medieval French cookery in the 16th century. La Varenne was the foremost member of a group of French chefs, writing for a professional audience, who codifiedFrench cuisine for the age of Louis XIV. The others wereNicholas de Bonnefons , "Le jardinier François" (1651) and "Les Délices de la Campagne" (1654) andFrançois Massialot , "Le Cuisinier royal et bourgois", (1691), which was still being edited and modernized in the mid-18th century.The seventeenth century saw a culinary revolution which transported French gastromomy into the modern era. The heavily spiced flavours inherited from the cuisine of the
Middle Ages were abandoned in favour of the natural flavours of foods. Exoticspice s (saffron ,cinnamon ,cumin ,ginger ,nutmeg ,cardamom , nigella, seeds of paradise) were, with the exception of pepper, replaced by localherbs (parsley ,thyme , bayleaf,chervil ,sage ,tarragon ). New vegetables likecauliflower ,asparagus ,peas ,cucumber andartichoke were introduced. Special care was given to the cooking ofmeat in order to conserve maximum flavour.Vegetable s had to be fresh and tender.Fish , with the improvement of transportation, had to be impeccably fresh. Preparation had to respect the gustatory and visual integrity of the ingredients instead of masking them as had been the practice previously.La Varenne's work was the first to set down in writing the considerable culinary innovations achieved in
France in the seventeenth century, while codifying food preparation in a systematic manner, according to rules and principals. He introduced the firstbisque andBéchamel sauce . He replaced crumbled bread withroux as the base for sauces, andlard withbutter . Here one finds the first usage of the termsbouquet garni , "fonds de cuisine " (stocks) andreduction s, and the use of egg-whites for clarification. It also contains the earliest recipe in print formille-feuille . The cooking of vegetables is addressed, an unusual departure. In a fragrant sauce for asparagus there is evidence of an early form ofhollandaise sauce ::"make a sauce with good fresh butter, a little vinegar, salt, and nutmeg, and an egg yolk to bind the sauce; take care that it doesn't curdle..." [http://www.ochef.com/r244.htm]La Varenne preceded his book with a text on "confitures"—jams, jellies and preserves— that included recipes for syrups, compotes and a great variety of fruit drinks, as well as a section on salads (1650).
La Varenne followed his groundbreaking work with a third book, "Le pastissier françois" (Paris 1653), which is generally credited with being the first comprehensive French work on
pastry -making. In 1662 appeared the first of the combined editions that presented all three works together. All the early editions of La Varenne's works—"Le Cuisinier françois" ran through some thirty editions in seventy-five years—are extremely rare; like children's books, they too were worn to pieces, in the kitchen, and simply used up.Pirated editions of "Le Cuisinier françois" were printed in Amsterdam (1653) and The Hague (1654-56). Soon there were imitators: "Le cuisinier françois méthodique" was published anonymously in Paris, 1660. The English translation, "The French Cook" (London 1653) was the first French cookbook translated into English. It introduced professional terms like "à la mode", "au bleu" (very rare), and "au naturel" which are now standard culinary expressions. Its success can be gauged from the fact that over 250,000 copies were printed in about 250 editions and it remained in print until 1815.
It is said that La Varenne's first training was in the kitchens of
Marie de Medici . At the time his books were published, La Varenne had ten years' experience as "chef de cuisine" toNicolas Chalon du Blé, Marquis of Uxelles ("marquis d'Uxelles" in French), to whom he dedicated his publications and whom he immortalized in "duxelles ", finely-minced mushrooms seasoned with herbs and shallots, which is still a favourite flavouring for fish and vegetables. The Marquis of Uxelles was the royal governor ofChalon-sur-Saône , thought by some to be the birthplace of La Varenne."Le Cuisinier françois" was reprinted in 1983, [Three other French cookbooks are included: "Le pastissier françois", "Le confiturier françois" and "Le cuisinier friand", from a Rouen almanac of 1693.] published by Editions Montalba and edited by Jean-Marie Flandrin, Philip Hyman and Mary Hyman with a comprehensive introductory essay. [This venture, under the general direction of
Daniel Roche , is an attempt to bring those popular editions of French printed culture, sold in cheap blue paperback by traveling peddlers - the "bibliothèque bleue" - within reach of social historians.]Notes
External links
* [http://www.bib.ub.es/grewe/showbook.pl?gw023 Universitat de Barcelona: "Le Cuisinier françois"] (e-book)
* [http://www.foodreference.com/html/w-francois-pierre-de-la-varenn.html Brief "vita" of La Varenne]Further reading
*"The French Cook: Le Cuisinier françois" (London 1653)" Introduction by Philip and Mary Hyman, 1983 (Montalba: Bibliotheque Bleue)
*T. Sarah Peterson, 1994. "Acquired Taste : The French Origins of Modern Cooking" (Cornell University Press)
*"La Varenne's Cookery. The French Cook; The French Pastry Chef; The French Confectioner. A modern English translation and commentary by Terence Scully." (Prospect Books, 2006)
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