- Shield budding
Shield budding is a frequent technique for
fruit tree s (seefruit tree propagation ), but can also be used for many other kinds of nursery stock. An extremely sharp knife is necessary; specialty "budding knives" are on the market. The rootstock or stock plant may be cut off above the bud at budding, or one may wait until it is certain that the bud is growing.Fruit tree budding is done when the bark "slips," i.e. the cambium is moist and actively growing, which is usually August in the US. Rootstocks are young trees, either seedlings as Mazzard cherries for many
cherry varieties, or clonal rootstocks (usually propagated by layering) when one wants highly consistent plants with well defined characteristics. The popular Malling-Merton series of rootstocks forapple s was developed inEngland , and are used today for the majority of the commercial apple orchard trees.T-budding is the most common style, whereby a T-shaped slit is made in the stock plant, and the knife flexed from side to side in the lower slit to loosen up the bark.
Scion wood is selected from the chosen variety, as young, actively growing shoots. Usually buds at the tip, or at the older parts of the shoot are discarded, and only 2-4 buds are taken for use. The buds are in theleaf axils. They may be so tiny as to be almost unnoticeable.Holding the petiole of the leaf as a handle, an oval of the main stem is sliced off, including the petiole and the bud. This is immediately slid into the T on the rootstock, before it can dry out. The joined bud and rootstock are held by a winding of rubber band, which will hold it until sealed, yet the band will deteriorate in the sunlight so that soon breaks and does not pinch new growth, girdling the shoot.
The percentage of "take" of the buds depends on the natural compatibility of the stock and scion, the sharpness of the knife, and the skill of the budder. Even the experts will have some buds die.
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