Kirkwood (Atlanta)

Kirkwood is a neighborhood in eastern Atlanta, Georgia. It is situated entirely in the DeKalb County and near Lake Claire, East Lake, and Oakhurst. Kirkwood is bounded on the north by DeKalb Avenue and on the south by Memorial Drive. Kirkwood is situated just minutes from Downtown Atlanta and Decature work and entertainment centers and is conveniently served by the Eastlake MARTA Station.

History

Prior to the Civil War, much of the property that now comprises Kirkwood belonged to the Kirkpatrick family. Another portion belonged to the Dunwoody family. The name Kirkwood was derived from a blending of the two family names. [cite web | author=Leslie Everton Brice | title=Kirkwood Atlanta Community is Providing Niceties and Showing Evidence of Resurgence | publisher=Atlanta Journal-Constitution | year= 2002 | url=http://www.bobridgeport.com/Articles/AJCNeighborhoodofTheWeekKirkwoodAtlanta.aspx | accessdate=2007-04-06] During the early part of the last century, streetcars ferried Kirkwood commuters into Atlanta.

Kirkwood traces its beginnings to residential development begun as early as the 1870s. While no one would consider Kirkwood a suburb of Atlanta today, an early tour book described it as an “area of beautiful suburban villas.” Kirkwood was an early streetcar suburb to Atlanta. By 1910 streetcars provided express service to and from Atlanta three times daily, and street cars continued service along some streets including Kirkwood Road until the early 1950’s.

Kirkwood was incorporated as an independent municipality in 1899. Governed beginning in 1899 by its own city council and mayor, the town boasted its own water system, school systems and fire department. The former Kirkwood School is a handsome building from this period, located on Kirkwood Road just north of Bessie Branham Park. Individually nominated to the National Register of Historic Places, the primary building on the property’s south side was originally designed by John Francis Downing, the son of the noted Atlanta architect W. T. Downing. Both buildings now comprise the Kirkwood Lofts apartments as a result of a $1 million renovation in 1997.

In 1922, Kirkwood residents voted for annexation into the city of Atlanta.

Beginning in the late 1950s and continuing into the 1960s, Kirkwood experienced a transition from an almost all-white community to an almost all-black community. Up until 1965 as the racial composition of the community changed, black citizens made up an increasingly large percentage of the community’s populations. Unfortunately they were denied the opportunity to attend the white, segregated Kirkwood School; and as a result of community pressure the Atlanta School Board in 1965 abruptly integrated Kirkwood School. The school board declared the previous phased-in, grade-by-grade attempt at integration a failure.

Beginning in the 1980s, the neighborhood began to witness another influx of new residents interested in renovating the neighborhood’s stock of historic housing. Still underway, this influx of the middle-class brought with it a whole host of new issues related to gentrification and the clash of people with different social, racial, and economic histories living together in one community.

Kirkwood During the Civil War:

There are 5 Historic Markers placed by the Georgia Historic Commission detailing major events during the Battle of Atlanta during the Civil War and examining what a pivotal role the area played in the events that unfolded.

The Marker "Gresham's Division" is situated on the northern side of Memorial Drive between the intersections of Clay Street and Eastside Drive. The marker is incorrectly identified as being in the East Atlanta community which lies south of I-20. [http://www.georgiaplanning.com/hm/ViewMarker.aspx?DCA_ID=885 Click Here to View Marker]

The Marker "McPherson's Last Ride" is situated near "Gresham's Division" and details General McPhersons ride to what is currently the intersection of McPherson Ave. and Monument Dr. in East Atlanta where he was killed in action; shot while refusing to surrender in attempted escape. [http://www.georgiaplanning.com/hm/ViewMarker.aspx?DCA_ID=902 Click Here To View Marker]

The Marker "Unexpected Clash" at the intersection of Clifton Street and Memorial Drive, details a suprise encounter sparking some of the first shots fired in the battle of Atlanta. [http://www.georgiaplanning.com/hm/ViewMarker.aspx?DCA_ID=858 Click Here To View Marker]

The Marker "Battle of Atlanta Began Here" located near the intersection of Memorial Drive and Clay Streets marks the first two brigades of the North and South that would set off the battle that would leave countless soldiers and civilians dead and lead to the burning of Atlanta. [http://www.georgiaplanning.com/hm/ViewMarker.aspx?DCA_ID=861 Click Here to View Marker]

Downtown Kirkwood

While Kirkwood's residential community began to flourish by the late 1990's, the community's business district running along Hosea L. Williams Dr. (Then Boulevard Dr.) remained stagnant. A major problem with any planning efforts gaining traction to raise the quality of the downtown area was the fact that properties along the district had varying zoning designations governing their density and use. In 2001 the community obtained Nieghborhood Commercial (NC-3) Zoning that allowed for consistency in planning efforts.

In late 2003, work began on Phase I of a $1.5M streetscape project in the district that, coupled with earlier zoning changes, served to create an environment that would attract small business and private commercial development to the area. The streetscape project increased pedestrian access by narrowing street crossings, slowing traffic, installing protected crosswalks and building wider decorative sidewalks. The visual element of the project added historic street lighting, removal of several power poles, decoritive brick pavers, trash cans and bike racks.

Today, Downtown Kirkwood has become what neighbors call "the small town in the big city", hosting its own post office, newly constructed fire station, police precinct and public library. Residents and visitors also have a host of shopping and dinging options at their disposal including, day spaas, furniture gallery, gift shop, restaurants, bars, coffee shops real estate offices, professional/creative spaces and more!

The Kirkwood Business Owners' Association (KBOA) represents the voice of local business and recently installed new gateway signage and landscaping at the main traffic island on Hosea Williams Drive. The KBOA also promots and markets Kirkwood Events and businesses.

Kirkwood Events

Kirkwood Spring Fling: Each year the KNO ushers in the warm weather with its annual Spring Fling Festival and Tour of Homes. Local residents can sample music, artist market, food, beer and childrens area at Bessie Brahnam Park. Proceeds from the event are committed to local community improvment projects. Vist [http://www.kirkwoodfling.com Kirkwood Spring Fling] for details.

Kirkwood Wine Stroll: Summer means wine in downtown Kirkwood! The Kirkwood Business Owners Association hosts their annual Wine Stroll each year where attendees can sample wines from around the world at local businesses. Visit [http://www.kirkwoodbiz.com Kirkwood Wine Stroll]

B*ATL Event:: Held each July in commemoration of the area's geographical role as the starting point of the Battle of Atlanta during the civil war, Kirkwood and East Atlanta host the B*ATL celebration across their communities. Events include a Gala Dinner and House Tour, a 5K run, van and walking tours, a re-creation of the Frontlines with Re-enactment Soldiers and artillery, a Civil War Village with civilian re-enactors, historic music concerts and dramatic performances, story telling and more. Visit the [http://www.batlevent.org B*ATL Website] for more information.

Architecture

Historic Kirkwood hosts a large stock of Victorian and Craftsman style homes along with new homes in traditional styles. In 2007 The Kirkwood Neighbors’ Organization in conjunction with faculty and students of the Georgia Tech Department of Historic preservation obtained final approval to establish the Kirkwood Historic District from the Board of the National Register of Historic Places. With nearly 3000 contributing properties, the Kirkwood Historic District will be the largest of its kind in the State of Georgia, is among the largest urban districts in the country and will build awareness of the area’s unique history, people, events and architecture.

Kirkwood School Lofts: Listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2002, the Kirkwood School was originally constructed in 1910 with additional buildings added in the following decades. The school was converted to loft apartments and serve as an excellent example of preservation methods and adaptive re-use. In 2005 the 24 apartment units were sold as loft condominiums.

The Craftsman Influence: The Craftsman Bungalow, the most prominent architectural home style in Kirkwood reflects the areas growth throughout the community’s early twentieth century as a streetcar suburb of bustling Atlanta.

The style was renown for its simple lines and down-to-earth functionality, a clear departure from the grandeur of earlier Victorian homes of the late 1800’s. Urban pioneers revered the essence of these simpler times and today the community's craftsman homes are highly sought after, fetching a premium on resale.

Local Architect Frank Ruggles, a Boston-born transplant to turn of the century Kirkwood exercised the craftsman influence in many of his unique designs throughout the neighborhood. Many of the Ruggles-designed homes can still be seen along Warlick Avenue and along much of Howard Street NE.

New Homes, Old Style: In addition to the large stock of historic homes, one of Kirkwood’s greatest attributes is its capacity for new homes that meet the needs of modern living while maintaining the traditional fabric of the surrounding community.

Since the mid 1990’s Kirkwood has experienced a surge of new single family homes through infill development on existing lots and the construction of small enclaves such as Hawthorn Park.

Additional projects on the horizon include three new subdivisions totaling approximately 50 homes with continued infill development.

Although there are not currently any historic protections in place for the community at large, The Kirkwood Neighbors’ Organization and Neighborhood Planning Unit-O work closely with developers, builders and the City of Atlanta to ensure that new development is sensitive to a variety of needs throughout the community.

Education

Residents are zoned to campuses in the Atlanta Public Schools district [http://ivic02.residentinteractive.com/programs/web.show_html2?xwebsite=&xinput=3445869&parentid=9604] .
* Fred A. Toomer Elementary School
* Coan Middle School
* Henry W. Grady High School

Kirkwood's Parks & Greenspace

Kirkwood is home to three of Atlanta's Public Parks that are situated throughout the neighborhood. Additinally, Kirkwood is working to establish the Eastside Greenway; a series of linear parks, greenspace and urban trail network traversing the neighborhood. The "Trolley Line" of the PATH network also crosses the community along much of Hosea Williams Drive and Woodbine Avenue.

Gillem Park:: Jesse Clay, the first owner of the land, is thought to have emigrated from Bradford County, Virginia and first settled in Jasper County, Georgia, where he shows on the Federal Census of 1820 along with his wife, children, and six slaves. He purchased Land Lots 206 and 207 of the 15th District, DeKalb County, from Taylor & Watts of Jasper County in 1826. He made the final payment on the land after traveling to South Carolina and back by horseback. He initially lived on the property in a tent and drew water from a spring at Wade’s Place Hollow (now Gilliam Park).

He cleared and farmed approximately 850 acres that ranged from the curve of Gilliam Park south to Memorial Drive until his death in 1871. His son Cleveland, a Confederate veteran of the Civil War, inherited the land. The majority of the land was first subdivided and sold to the Atlanta Suburban Land Company in 1892 with the family retaining the Clay home at Boulevard Dekalb (now Hosea Williams Drive) between Clay and Wyman Streets, the family burial grounds nearby, and other parcels.

The sale was prompted by increased Kirkwood development following installation of one of Atlanta’s first trolley lines in the early 1870’s. That line’s right of way bordered soon to be Gilliam Park and explains the curved shape of the park’s border. In the late 1910’s consolidation of the many electric trolley companies in Atlanta led to the founding of today’s Georgia Power Company. The Atlanta Suburban Land Company held the park parcel until approximately 1922, when they collapsed during a land fraud scandal.

Between 1922 and 1924 the City of Kirkwood (incorporated in1892) was annexed in a long and at times contentious political and legislative process. General practice lawyer Rufus F. Gilliam, a former mayor of Kirkwood, was an active proponent of annexation. He lived on nearby Rogers Street with his wife Elsa and son Edwin.

The annexation agreement between the two cities included a commitment by Atlanta to create city parks in Kirkwood. Today’s park was acquired from the many parcels available after failure of the Atlanta Suburban Land Company and named after Mr. Gilliam. It has remained in Atlanta’s park inventory since.

Coan Park:: Also situated along the old trolley line, Coan Park features an accessible playground allowing disabled children use of play equipnent. The park is also home to a recreation center, ball field, tennis courts and entertainment gazebo.

Bessie Branham Park::Bessie Branham and her husband were leading citizens of Kirkwood in the early 1900’s. Mr. Branham was in the publishing business. Mrs. Branham was a civic leader involved in women’s and children’s activities.

In the 1920’s Mrs. Branham purchased the land that is now Bessie Branham Park and gave it to the city of Atlanta with the understanding that it would be developed as a public park. The City of Atlanta developed the park and named it after Mrs. Branham.

In 1998, Bessie Branham Park was renovated with new tennis/basketball courts, a ball field, and playground as well as a $2 million recreational center. The recreation center has a gym, workout equipment, and a state-of-the-art computer center with classes that are free to Atlanta residents. The park also features Atlanta's only Urban Treehouse that was constucted under a US Forest Service program to increase the awareness of inner-city youth to nature.

In 2002, the city of Atlanta removed a majority of the existing play structures at Bessie Branham Park without any budget or intent to replace it. The KNO, in conjunction with KABOOM!, and with the assistance of over 700 volunteers from corporate sponsors completed the design, funding and build of a new playground in 2003. The playground is now the centerpiece of the park and serves as a hub for neighborhood parents to let the kids blow of some steam!

See also

* Ann's Snack Bar

References

External links

* [http://www.historic-kirkwood.com/ Kirkwood Neighbors' Organization]
* [http://www.kirkwoodbiz.com/ Kirkwood Business Owners Association]
* [http://www.rediscoveredatlanta.org/kirkwood.html Kirkwood Atlanta Neighborhood Information]