- Alexander Burgener
Alexander Burgener (1845,
Saas Fee –8 July 1910 , near the Berglihütte) was a Swiss mountain guide and thefirst ascent ionist of manymountains and new routes in the westernAlps in thesilver age of alpinism .Together with Albert Mummery, he made the first ascent of the Zmuttgrat on the
Matterhorn on3 September 1879 , and of the Grands Charmoz (1880) and the Aiguille du Grépon in theMont Blanc Massif (5 August 1881 ). With another British alpinist,Clinton Thomas Dent , he made the first ascent of theLenzspitze (August 1870) and the Grand Dru (12 September 1878 ),He was killed by an
avalanche on8 July 1910 near the Berglihütte in theBernese Alps .First ascents
*
Lenzspitze , 1870
*Portjengrat, 1871
*Grand Dru, 1878
*Zmutt ridge of theMatterhorn , 1879
*Traverse of the Col du Lion, 1880
*Grands Charmoz, 1880
*Charpoua face of theAiguille Verte , 1881
*Aiguille du Grépon, 1881
*Frontier ridge ofMont Maudit , 1887
*Teufelsgrat ofTäschhorn , 1887Bibliography
*Fux, A., "Alexander Burgener, König der Bergführer" Bern, Verlag Hallwag, 1961 [viz., "Alexander Burgener, King of the Mountain Guides"]
*Mummery, A. F., "My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus", Rockbuy Limited. ISBN 1-904466-09-5Notes
External links
*HDS|42257
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