Jamdani

The Jamdani is a fabric of fine cotton muslin of Bengali origin, with colored stripes and patterns. In the first half of the nineteenth century, James Taylor described the figured or flowered jandani. In the late nineteenth century, T. N. Mukharji referred to this fabric as the jamdani muslin. Whether figured or flowered, the jamdani was a woven fabric in cotton, and it was undoubtedly one of the varieties of the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weaver. Traditionally woven around Dhaka and created on the loom brocade, the jamdani is fabulously rich in motifs.

The word 'Jamdani'

The word Jamdani is of Persian origin from 'Jam' meaning flower nad 'Dani' meaning a vase or a cotainer. The earliest mention of the orign of Jamdani and its developemnt as na indsutry is found in Kautikaya's (about 3rd century BC), where it is stated that thsi fine cloth was used in Bengla and Pundra.

Varities of Jamdani Work

The Moghul Era

We do not know exactly when it came to be adorned with floral patterns of the loom. It is, however, certain that in the Mughal period, most likely during the reign of either Emperor Akbar (1556-1605) or Emperor Jahangir (1605-1627), the figured or flowered muslin came to be known as the jamdani. Forbes Watson in his most valuable work titled Textile Manufactures and Costumes of the people of India holds that the figured muslins, because of their complicated designs, were always condidered the most expensive productions of the Dhaka looms. [Glassie, Henry and Mahmud, Feroz.2008.Living Traditions. Cultural Survey of Bangladesh Series-II. Asiatic Society of Bangladesh. Dhaka. pp.351 ] During the Moghul era the fame of Jmadani reached well beyond the boundaries of the subcontinent. From the 16 th century, it became the most prized item in the overland caravan trade from Dhaka through to Agra, Bokhara, Samarkand, and further West in Asia.

Origin of the Jamdani

Conclusion

Though mostly used for saris, Jamdani is also used for scarves and handkerchiefs. Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth-making techniques of Bengal (perhaps 2,000 years old) with the muslins produced by Bengali Muslims since the 14th century. Jamdani is the most expensive product of Dhaka looms since it requires the most lengthy and dedicated labor of the highest quality.

Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric, plants, and floral designs and are said to originate due to Persian and Mughal fusion thousands of years ago. Due to the exquisite pain-staking methodology required, only aristocrats and royal families were able to afford such luxuries.

Jamdani, one of the oldest forms of cottage industry in Bangladesh, was once was a dying trade. It was successfully revived due to the pioneering work of entrepreneurs such as Monira Emdad. Tangail Saree Kutir along with other sari stores on Baily Road, strive to support the thousands of weavers of Bangladesh who have struggled to keep this age old tradition and fashion alive.

External links

* [http://www.thedailystar.net/magazine/2005/10/04/cover.htm Jamdani's Struggle to Survive ]
* [http://banglapedia.search.com.bd/HT/J_0049.htm Jamdani on Banglapedia]

*Tangail Saree Kutir, Baily Road - External Source - 1 [http://www.craftrevival.org/detailsNgos.asp?CountryCode=BANGLADESH&NgosCode=002165] , 2 [http://sos-arsenic.net/lovingbengal/womens-culture.html] , 3 [http://www.bangladesh-web.com/view.php?hidDate=2004-11-17&hidType=FEA&hidRecord=0000000000000000026974]

References