- Paul Güssfeldt
Dr Paul Güssfeldt (
14 October 1840 –18 January 1920 ) was a German geologist, mountaineer and explorer.Biography
Güssfeldt was born in
Berlin After attending the Collège Français in his home city, he studied natural sciences and mathematics inHeidelberg (where he joined the Vandalia student corps), from 1859 to 1865, and then in Berlin,Gießen andBonn .He made several
first ascents in theAlps , includingPiz Scerscen with Hans Grass and Caspar Capat on13 September 1877 via the north-west spur (the "Eisnase" route). He made winter ascents of theGrandes Jorasses and theGran Paradiso , as well as putting up several new routes onMont Blanc , including the Peuterey ridge on 15–19 August 1893 (with Emile Rey,Christian Klucker and César Ollier). "Pointe Güssfeldt" (4,112 m), the highest summit on theAiguille Blanche de Peuterey is named after him, as is the "Güssfeldtsattel", the col between Piz Scerscen andPiz Roseg also known as the "Porta da Roseg". This steep ice slope was first climbed by Güssfeldt with guides Hans Grass, Peter Jenny and Caspar Capat on13 September 1872 .In 1883 Güssfeldt made the first attempt on
Aconcagua by a European. Bribing porters with the story that there was treasure on the mountain, he approached Aconcagua via the Rio Volcan, making two attempts on the peak by the north-west ridge and reaching an altitude of 6,500 metres. The route that he prospected is now the normal route up the mountain.
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