Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela (born April 9, 1957 in Genk, Belgium) is a Belgian fashion designer. He studied at Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts along with the legendary avantgarde fashion collective the Antwerp Six. Many^[who?] still consider him to be the "7th" member of the collective.

Life and work

After graduation in 1980 he worked as a freelance designer for five years. Between 1985 and 1987 he worked for Jean Paul Gaultier, before showing his first collection under his own label in 1989. Between 1997 to 2003 he became, despite his non-traditional design, the creative director of the Hermès women's line.

During the 1980s, the Japanese avantgardists, with Rei Kawakubo—creator of the label Comme des Garçons—had turned the fashion scene upside-down with their eccentric and ground-breaking designs. Martin Margiela and the Antwerp Six would carry on the work, revolting against the luxurious fashion world with garments of oversized proportions such as long arms, and with linings, seams and hems on the outside. The concept of deconstruction, also embraced by the aforementioned Rei Kawakubo, is important for the understanding of Martin Margiela's fashion statement. Margiela famously redesigns by hand objects such as old wigs, canvases and silk scarves into couture garments.

Throughout his career, Martin Margiela has maintained an extremely low profile. He has never had his picture taken and remains backstage after his shows. All media contact is dealt with via fax. Maison Martin Margiela’s ultradiscreet trademark consists of a piece of cloth with the numbers 0-23 (see table below). The badge is attached to the inside with its four little white pick stitches, exposed to the outside on unlined garments. For the 20'th anniversary the anonymous tag was replaced by a classic logotype.

Margiela's brand was acquired by the Diesel brand in 2002 and industry insiders quoted in the article suggested that Martin Margiela may desire to leave due to creative differences, or simply, "... a desire to enjoy his life outside the insistent glare of the fashion world."

An article in New York Times dated October 1, 2008, gave many in the fashion world their first glimpse of Margiela's face, as well as breaking the news that he allegedly offered to hand the reins of his company over to Raf Simons, who appears to have declined the offer. Haider Ackermann was later offered the position as creative director, but similarly turned it down.

In October, 2009, Margiela majority stakeholder Renzo Rosso finally made public: "Martin has not been there for a long time. He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015."

A press release announced in December, that Margiela "has left the business. No replacement creative director will be appointed. Maison Martin Margiela will continue trading but the company declined to comment on the reasons for Margiela’s exit."^[1]

Ranges

• 0 Garments redesigned by hand for women / Artisanal
• 0 +10. Garments redesigned by hand for men / Artisanal

Artisanal garments by Margiela have been part of his collection since the fall/winter 1989-90 collection. Made by hand at the firm's atelier in Paris out of vintage materials, the hi Artisanal collection is limited in quantity.

• 1. The collection for women

The original Margiela collection, which eschews the numbered tag for a blank, white label. This is Margiela's primary pret-a-porter line for women.

• 10. The collection for men

Introduced in 1999, 10 is made of disparate garments of equally high standards of material and construction, to be freely combined. A T-shirt, jeans, and suit jacket could be worn together.

• 4. A wardrobe for women

First shown for spring/summer 2004, 4 is a line of garments expressly meant for comfort and intimacy.

• 6. MM6 by Maison Margiela- Garment for Women
• 14. A wardrobe for men

Introduced in spring/summer 2005, 14 is meant to "evoke timelessness." To emphasize how 14 bridges the past and the present, each season Margiela produces a set of replica items. These resemble the original as closely as possible and are labeled with their origin and period.

• 11. A collection of accessories for women and men
• 22. A collection of shoes for women and men

MM6. Garments for women MM6 are more casual garments for women, generally less conceptual than the avant-garde 1 line.

• 8. Eyewear for men and women
• 13. Other objects and magazines

12. Fine jewellery collection.

3. Collection of fragrances. Début (Untitled) in 2010.

Stores

In his stores, salespeople wear white lab coats. Deconstructed store in unusual locations away from expensive fashion streets.

• 23, rue de Montpensier Paris 75001 France
• 114, rue de Flandre 1000 Bruxelles Belgium
• 2-8-13 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya Tokyo 150-0022 Japan
• 23-a Crocus City Mall, Krasnogosk, Moscow, Russia
• Bolshoi Prospekt, 287, St. Petersburg, Russia
• 803 Greenwich Street New York 10014 USA
• 9970 South Santa Monica Blvd Beverly Hills CA 90212
• 3F, N°300, Sec.3, Jhongsiao E road, Taipei Taiwan (formerly a Burger King)
• Via della Spiga, 46 20121 Milano Italy
• 34, Maximilian str 34 Munich, Germany
• 3930 NE 2nd Avenue, Suite 101, Miami FL, 33137

Trivia

Nicolas Ghesquiere, the designer of Balenciaga, has said on several occasions that he is a fan of Margiela and often wears Margiela's clothes.^{[citation needed]}

Maison Martin Margiela was invited to curate the first issue of A MAGAZINE curated by in 2004, and has since contributed to further issues.

In October 2008, Maison Martin Margiela celebrates its 20th anniversary. For this occasion, the Fashion Museum Antwerp presents the unique exhibition, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ( 20) The exhibition. Conceived in close collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela, this exhibition takes place at the Antwerp Fashion Museum from 12 September 2008 through 8 February 2009.^[2]

Hip Hop superstar Jay-Z cites his affinity for Margiela's work on his 2009 hit single "Run This Town."

Kanye West as part of his 2011 effort with Jay-Z called Watch the Throne asks rhetorically on "Niggas in Paris" the question "What's that jacket, Margiela?"

UK rap artist Bashy mentions the brand saying "Now I'm purchasin Maison Martin Margiela coats" in the Till I'm Gone remix.

Thom Yorke, frontman of the band Radiohead, is often seen wearing Margiela during live shows.

References

• Menkes, Suzy (6 September 1994). "Martin Margiela". The New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/1994/09/06/style/06iht-fmargiela.html. Retrieved 6 December 2009. ^{[dead link]}
• Wilson, Eric (1 October 2008). "Fashion’s Invisible Man". The New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/02/fashion/shows/02MARGIELA.html?fta=y&pagewanted=all. Retrieved 6 December 2009. 
• Walker, Harriet (6 December 2009). "Out of sight, not out of mind: Celebrating two decades of Martin Margiela magic". The Independent. http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/out-of-sight-not-out-of-mind-celebrating-two-decades-of-martin-margiela-magic-1832810.html. Retrieved 6 December 2009. 

1. ^ Oxberry, Eve, "Martin Margiela exits Margiela", DRAPERS / drapersonline.com, 9 December 2009
2. ^ MOMU - Antwerp Fashion Museum

External links

• Martin Margiela – designer profile at Fashion Model Directory
• A MAGAZINE curated by Maison Martin Margiela
• A BLOG curated by Maison Martin Margiela
• Biography from ArtandCulture.com
• Unfinished dress pattern by Martin Margiela

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Name	Margiela, Martin
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Date of birth	9 April 1957
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