Beta (climbing)

Beta is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb. In rock climbing this may include information about a climb's difficulty, crux, , length, quality of rock, ease to protect, required equipment, and specific information about hand or foot holds. For alpine climbs, beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.

The original use of the term "Beta" in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber, Jack Mileski. "Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format. This was actually a play on words, as Jack would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?"

Etiquette

It is considered proper etiquette in climbing not to give a climber beta unless they ask for it. Many climbers find it distracting if people shout at them while they are climbing. Also, a climber can only onsight a route if he or she has received no beta. If the climber has received beta from someone else before sending a route it is called a flash.

References

* [http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/other.htm Tradgirl Climbing FAQ]
* [http://www.climbing.com/news/mileskikiller/index.html Climbing.com]