- Klemheist knot
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Klemheist knot 
Names Klemheist knot, Machard knot Category Hitch Related Prusik knot, Bachmann knot, Blake's hitch Typical use Rock climbing ABoK #1762 The Klemheist knot (or Machard knot) is a type of friction hitch, used as part of a system to ascend or descend a climbing rope. As with other friction knots, it grips the rope when weight is applied and is free to move when the weight is released. It is similar in function to the Prusik knot and the Bachmann knot but has the advantage over the Prusik that a loop of webbing can be used as an alternative to cord. The Klemheist tends to be easier to slide up than a Prusik, which does not work well with webbing. The Klemheist can also be used to attach a snubber to the anchor rode of a yacht or similar small craft: here the advantage is that it is easy to undo.
Sometimes the knot name is misspelled Kleimheist, with an extra i. Klem means clamp in Dutch.
Technique
A Prusik loop is wrapped round the climbing rope two or three times. The loop is then threaded through itself and carefully tightened to wrap the climbing rope neatly. In use strain must only be taken on the hanging loop. Never grip and pull on the knot itself—a rapid descent can occur! If the knot slips when load is placed on the hanging loop, wrap the loop around the climbing rope another time or two as necessary until there is no slippage.
See also
External links
Categories:- Hitch knots
- Climbing knots
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