Massaya

Massaya, is the name given to the Winery and Arak Distillery owned and operated by Ghosn brothers Sami and Ramzi. Situated in North of the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon near Chtaura and Zahle and 38km from Baalbek, the winery and distillery are located on the Tanaïl property which is also home to vineyards and a restaurant. The Northern Bekaa has traditionally been the favoured terroir for viticulture ^[1] and its recent history dates back to the beginning of the last century ^[2]. The introuduction of vines to the Southern Bekaa is a product of the recent surge in the number of wineries established in Lebanon ^[3]. Lebanese wines are categorised under the title 'Ancient World' because of the extensive history of viticulture in the Bekaa valley which dates back over 5000 years to the Phonecians ^[4].

The history of the estate

Tanaïl property was brought by Michel and Amal Ghosn in the early 1970s and it was used by the family as a countryside retreat from their primary residence in Beirut. In line with tradition it was planted with table grapes (of the indigenous varieties beitamouni and obeidi) used to produce home-made arak and also had a kitchen garden (with mekti, an indigenous drought resistant cucumber) and orchards (the Bekaa is renowned for its pears and jujube or Chinese dates ^[5].

Michel and Amal Ghosn with Ghada, Sami and Ramzi at Tanaïl in 1971

The outbreak of the Lebanese conflict in 1975 forced the family to leave the estate and both Sami and Ramzi Ghosn left Lebanon to study abroad. In the early 1990s Sami and Ramzi returned to Lebanon and decided to work on the revitalisation of the war-ravaged estate.

The Vineyard Philosophy ^[6]

Massaya states that in the absence of regulation and infrastructure in Lebanon it is reliant on integrity, industriousness and transparency to ensure trust and enforce a message of Lebanese tolerance, civilisation and coexistence. It is also committed to environmental repair, self sufficiency and the continuation of the legacy of the ancient wine makers ^[7]. Transparency is enforced by an open door policy ^[8].

The renaissance of the traditional arak

Initially the brothers focused on the revival of traditional home-made arak, the Lebanese spirit made from wine and aniseed and often likened to Italian Sambuca, Turkish Ouzo and French Pastis.

Only traditional methods were used; the burning of vine wood to heat the copper alembics used for distillation and the use of traditional clay jars for ageing the arak. The Clay jars are produced for Massaya by specialised potters from the village of Beit Chabab. The arak is triple distilled and aged for 18 months. Drunk diluted with water or ice arak is considered by many the drink of choice alongside Lebanese mezze ^[9]; Massaya now produces 40,000 litres per anum which is sold in distinctive blue bottles and has had notable success ^[10].

Traditional still at El Massaya-Lebanon

At the end of the civil war in 1991 there were five wineries in Lebanon – Château Musar, Ksara, Kefraya, Domaine des Tourelles and Nakad ^[11] but that number has now increased to over 30. At the forefront of this renaissance ^[12] was the establishment of the Massaya winery in 1998. Citing the historical potential of the Lebanese terroir and a desire to revitalise both a traditional industry and an area which suffered hugely during the civil war ^[13] the Ghosn brothers initiative was aided by the expertise of two french partners.

The French partners

Both partners provided technical expertise and are shareholders in Massaya.

1- The Brunier family of Châteauneuf du Pape. Hippolyte Brunier planted his first wine stocks on Plateau de la Crau, where grapes had been grown since the 14th century and where, in 1972, Claude Chappe, the inventor of the optical telegraph, built one of his signal towers. Hippolyte’s son,Jules, extended the estate to 42 acres and gave it its name " Vieux Télégraphe. ^[14] At the end of the Second World War, Henri, the third generation, enlarged the Domain to a single expanse of 136 acres and gave the classic appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape its full dimension, creating a “Vieux Télégraphe “style. The family business has been run by Frédéric and Daniel since the early 1980s both of whom are partners in Massaya.

Massaya coowners

2- The Hebrard family formerly of Chateau Cheval Blanc in Saint Emilion, Bordeaux. After the sale of the family enterprise Dominic Hebrard established la Maison Hebrard, a new Chateau in Saint Emilion, Chateau Trianon and came into partnership with Massaya. ^[15].

Massaya- the wine

The grapes are harvested in September and October from Massaya's vineyards on the Tanaïl property as well as other areas of Massaya land around the Bekaa valley. Massaya bottles 5 wines per vintage; one white, one rosé and three reds- Classic, Silver Selection and Gold Reserve (made from varying blends of Grenache noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mouvédre, Syrah and Cinsault). Both the Gold reserve and Silver selection are aged in oak before release.

Massaya Gold Reserve label

The wines have won several awards ^{[16] [17]} and have been widely recommended ^[18] The number of Lebanese wineries is increasing every year with newcomers such as Chateau Marsyas, Exsir... testament to the potential of the area despite sometimes dangerous political instability as shown by the 2006 Lebanon War which resulted in a significant decrease in production for that year due to the danger of harvesting. ^[19] The winery produces 300,000 bottles per anum, 80% of which are exported while the restaurant and tasting facilities are frequented by resident Lebanese and tourists alike.

References

1. ^ Karam, Michael (2005) "The Wines of Lebanon" Saqi Books
2. ^ McGovern, Patrick.E. "Uncorking the Past". University of California Press, 2009, Pg. 7.
3. ^ http://www.lebanonwines.com/terroir.html
4. ^ McGovern, Patrick.E. "Uncorking the Past". University of California Press, 2009, Pg. 7.
5. ^ http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/jujube.html.
6. ^ http://www.massaya.com/Broadcast.aspx?ID=79
7. ^ http://www.lebanonwines.com/wine_heritage.html
8. ^ www.massaya.com
9. ^ http://www.economist.com/node/2281757
10. ^ http://www.economist.com/node/2281757
11. ^ http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine/8243878/Lebanese-wine-Edgy-exhilarating-and-drinkable.html
12. ^ New York Times, Where Conflict Raged, Lebanon Now Tends Its Vineyards, October 2005
13. ^ http://www.oxfordwine.co.uk/features/winter_06/massaya.html
14. ^ “Vieux Télégraphe”Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe
15. ^ http://www.wine-pages.com/resources/lebanon.htm by Tom Cannavan and Michael Karam
16. ^ http://www.decanter.com/dwwa/2010/wine/massaya-silver-selection-red-2005/4743
17. ^ http://www.decanter.com/dwwa/2010/wine/massaya-gold-reserve-red-2005/4744
18. ^ http://www.massaya.com/media-gallery.aspx?CatID=28&AID=m10s1&DID=sub10
19. ^ http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine/8243878/Lebanese-wine-Edgy-exhilarating-and-drinkable.html

External links

• Massaya official site