Derby shoe

Men's derby style leather dress shoes

A Derby or Gibson (also called a Blücher or "bucks") is a style of shoe characterized by shoelace eyelet tabs that are sewn on top of the vamp, a construction method that is also sometimes referred to as "open lacing" where the tongue cut in one piece with the forepart. Oxfords (or bal-type), in contrast to blücher, are characterized by shoelace eyelet tabs that are stitched underneath the vamp. The Blucher design is named after Prussian general Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher, one of Napoleon's more formidable opponents who decided his troops needed better shoes and commissioned a boot with side pieces lapped over the front. This design was adopted by armies across Europe, became a trendy sporting and hunting shoe in the 1850s, and then became appropriate for town affairs in the turn of the century.^[1] The Blücher is a step down in dressiness from the oxford.

Detail of a man's derby style dress shoe showing lacing eyelet tabs sewn on top of the vamp

References

1. ^ Flusser, Alan. "Dressing the Man" Harper Collins, 2002, pg 195.

See also

• Oxford

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