- Morphodynamics
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Beach morphodynamics refers to the study of the interaction and adjustment of the seafloor topography and fluid hydrodynamic processes, seafloor morphologies and sequences of change dynamics involving the motion of sediment. Hydrodynamic processes include those of waves, tides and wind-induced currents.
While hydrodynamic processes respond instantaneously to morphological change, morphological change requires the redistribution of sediment. As sediment takes a finite time to move, there is a lag in the morphological response to hydrodynamic forcing. Sediment can therefore be considered to be a time-dependent coupling mechanism. Since the boundary conditions of hydrodynamic forcing change regularly, this may mean that the beach never attains equilibrium.
This systems approach to the coast was developed by Wright and Thom in 1977.
Examples of beach morphodynamic processes include the formation of beach cusps (on a very small scale), intertidal bars and log-spiral (Yasso 1965)/crenulate (Silvester 1980) embayments. Morphodynamic processes exhibit positive and negative feedbacks (such that beaches can, over different timescales, be considered to be both self-forcing and self-organised systems), nonlinearities and threshold behaviour.
Morphodynamic processes are also associated with other coastal landforms, for example spur and groove topography on coral reefs and tidal flats in infilling estuaries.
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