Simone Moro

Simone Moro (born October 26, 1967) is one of the major and unconventional alpinists. He has climbed several 8000m peaks without oxygen but it is not following the goal to climb all the 8000s. Simone is looking for unclimbed peaks of 7000 meter or more, or for first winter climbs of Pakistan 8000s (so far never summited in winter), or other uncommon achievements.

Early life

Born in Bergamo (Italy) from a middle-class family, he grew up in the bourgh of Valtesse, he was strongly supported by his father in his passion for the mountains. His father was a climber and biker at a high level and not only introduced him to the extreme alpinism but also created a lively and international environment around him ^[1] . His life before his active involvement with the mountains is quite short since he started climbing the Presanella and other massifs of the Alpi Bergamasche at 13. However, thanks to his father he continued his studies until graduating cum laude at the University.

Mountain climbing career

Simone Moro began his climbing activity in the Grigne, near his home city, and in the Dolomites. His father was his first Mentor followed by Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi ^[2] . In this period he was primarily involved in rock climbing, an activity that has never left him even in the days of his Himalayan successes. In 1992 he participated to his first Himalayan expedition to Mount Everest. One year later Simone climbed the Aconcagua achieving the first winter summit of that peak. During his career he has attempted and sometime summited a number of mountains including Cerro Mirador and Makalu in 93; Shisha Pangma and Lhotse in 94, Kangchenjunga in 95; Fitz Roy, Dhaulagiri and Shisha Pangma in 96; Lhoste in 97; Annapurna in the winter 97; Everest again in 98; Pik Lenin (7134), Pik Korjenevska (7105), Pik Kommunism (7495), Pik Khan Tengri (7010) and Everest in 2000; Marble Wall in winter 2001; Everest-Lhoste in 2001; Cho Oyu and Everest in 2002; Mount Vinson, Kilimanjaro, Broad Peak e Elbrus 2003, Baruntse 2004; Batura and Batokshi Peak in 2005, Broad Peak in winter 2006. He believes that it is important to get the summit as much as it is important to attempt it. In 2005 he achieved the first winter summit of Shisha Pangma. In 2006 he completed the solo, south-north traverse of Everest.

Simone in 1996 climbed the west wall of Fitz Roy (3341m in Patagonia) in 25 hours from the base to the summit and back to the base. Also in 1996 he climbed Shisha Pangma South (8008m) without oxygen in 27 hours using skis in the descent from 7100 meters. In Winter 1997 he attempted the South face of Annapurna. During this attempt his climbing companions Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev died. In 2008 he achieved (with Herve Barmasse) the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6950 m Karakorum). The climbing was performed in pure alpine-style and in mere 43 hours.

During an attempt to the impressive wall of Lhotse at 8000 he abandoned the climb to search, rescue and save English alpinist Tom Moores. Simone is recipient of the Fair Play Pierre de Cubertin trophy from UNESCO, the Civilian Gold Medal from Italian president Ciampi and the David Sowles Memorial Award from the American Alpine Club.

Bibliography

Simone Moro, "Cometa sull'Annapurna", Corbaccio Editore

References

# Interview, L’Eco di Bergamo, January 23, 2003
# Interview, Simone Moro dalle falesie agli 8000, PlanetMountain

External links

[http://www.simonemoro.com Simone Moro homepage]
[http://www.planetmountain.com PlanetMountain]