Ape index

Ape index

Ape index is an informal measure of one's armspan relative to height. Among some rock climbers it is seen as desirable to have an arm span that exceeds one's height. [http://www.cs.bris.ac.uk/~stefan/FGA.html#q23 USENET uk.rec.climbing FAQ] It is calculated either by subtraction (armspan − height) in which case the desired result is a positive ape index, or by division (armspan ÷ height) in which case one desires a ratio greater than 1.

Despite the assumed desirability of a larger value, several scientific studies failed to demonstrate a correlation between the ape index and rock climbing ability. [http://bjsm.bmj.com/cgi/content/full/37/5/420 Anthropometry of young competitive sport rock climbers] [http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/html2/research/martin2005.shtml An Evaluation of the Validity of Dyno Test in Climbers]

References


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