Blackwork Embroidery

Blackwork Embroidery is a form of counted-thread embroidery that is usually stitched on even-weave fabric. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads give a better look than embroidery floss. Traditionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents.

Scarletwork is like blackwork, except it is sewn with red thread.

Technique

The stitches used are double running or holbein stitch, "backstitch", and sometimes "stem stitch". Since blackwork is a counted thread embroidery technique, it works on a base of even weave fabric.

Historically, there are three common styles of blackwork:

*In the earliest blackwork, counted stitches are worked to make a geometric or small floral pattern. Most modern blackwork is in this style, especially the commercially-produced patterns that are marketed for hobby stitchers.

*Later blackwork features large designs of flowers, fruit, and other patterns connected by curvilinear stems. These are outlined with stem stitch, and the outlined patterns are filled with geometric counted designs.

*In the third style of blackwork, the outlined patterns are "shaded" with random stitches called "seed stitches". This style of blackwork imitates etchings or woodcuts.

History

Historically, blackwork was used on shirts and chemises or smocks in England from the time of Henry VIII. The common name "Spanish work" was based on the belief that Catherine of Aragon brought many blackwork garments with her from Spain, and portraits of the later 15th and early 16th centuries show black embroidery or other trim on Spanish chemises. [A. J. B. Wace "debunked" the Spanish origin in the 1930s, but if the black trim on these describes the clothing of the miller's wife, Alison: "Of white, too, was the dainty smock she wore, embroidered at the collar all about with coal-black silk, alike within and out."

Blackwork in silk on linen was the most common domestic embroidery technique for clothing (shirts, smocks, sleeves, ruffs, and caps) and for household items such as cushion covers throughout the reign of Elizabeth I, but it lost its popularity by the 17th century. ("See also" 1550-1600 in fashion.)

Modern blackwork

Today, blackwork is popular. It has a modern feel due to its austere, formal quality. Much of the success of a blackwork design depends on how tone values are translated into stitches.

Amongst the motifs used, maps are parlicularly popular. So are chessboards and other designs which could be the subject of a pen and ink drawing.

Notes

References

*Arnold, Janet: "Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd", Leeds: W S Maney and Son Ltd, 1988. ISBN 0-901286-20-6
*Digby, George Wingfield. "Elizabethan Embroidery". New York: Thomas Yoseloff, 1964.
*Gostelow, Mary. "Blackwork", Batsford, 1976; Dover reprint, 1998, ISBN 0-486-40178-2
*Readers Digest "Complete Guide to Needlework", 1979, ISBN 0-89577-059-8.
*Wace, A.J.B.: "English Embroideries Belonging to Sir John Carew Pole, Bart", "Walpole Society Annual", 1932-33, Vol. XXI, p. 56, note 2.

External links

* [http://www.skinnersisters.com/stitch/issue1/index.html Blackwork Embroidery] (History, design sources, period patterns)
* [http://web.archive.org/web/20070112200353rn_1/cunnan.sca.org.au/wiki/Blackwork http://www.sca.org.au/cunnan/wiki/Blackwork (copy at archive.org)]
* [http://www.prettyimpressivestuff.com/blackwork.htm A Blackwork Embroidery Primer]
* [http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/blackwork.html Blackwork tips and techniques]
* [http://www.blackworkarchives.com/bw_cost.html Blackwork for Costume]
* [http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Crete/1581/bwgallery/ The Elizabethan Practical Companion's Blackwork Gallery] (links to portraits depicting blackwork)
* http://www.prettyimpressivestuff.com/stitches/holbein_files/holbein_frames.htm Holbein Stitch Diagram