Amauti

The amauti (also "amaut" or "amautik", [ [http://www.livingdictionary.com/term/viewTerm.jsp?term=70346463693 Asuilaak Living Dictionary] ] plural "amautiit") is the traditional eastern Arctic Inuit parka designed to carry a child in the same garment as the parent so that the child is warm and safe from frostbite, wind and cold. The amauti can be made from a variety of materials including sealskin, caribou skin or duffle (a thick woollen cloth) with a windproof outer shell. Children continue to be commonly carried in this way in the eastern Arctic communities of Nunavut and Nunavik, but the garment is sometimes seen in the Northwest Territories, Greenland, Labrador and Alaska. Traditionally the mother or female care-giver wears an amauti, but the garment may also be worn by fathers or male care-givers. A male who wears an amauti is said, in the south Baffin tradition, to be probably more successful when next hunting for certain species of animals.

Many external viewers think that the child is carried in the hood of the amauti, and this erroneous depiction can be seen in many works of art. [ [http://cybermuse.gallery.ca/cybermuse/search/artwork_zoom_e.jsp?mkey=5270 Frances Loring, National Gallery of Canada] ] This is not the case. The hood is enlarged in an amauti to permit both child and mother to be covered together, while the child is actually carried in the enlarged and extended back of the garment. The child rides with his or her belly against the mother's back and with knees bent. The garment is secured at the waist with a tie or belt which prevents the child from slipping down from the pouch. The weight of the child is carried across the shoulders of the garment although this weight is typically re-distributed by two more ties which form a "v" from the collar bone, with the base secured by the tie at the waist. A final tie attaches to the front edge of the hood, permitting the mother to either open the hood for a curious child to emerge and take in the surroundings, or to pull the hood across closing the child away from the wind and elements.

There are usually two styles of amauti: angajuqtaujaq, like a dress (shown on the right, with the 2 women); and akulik, a longer back with a stylized tail-like hem at the back (shown on the left picture-white). Hood shape, decoration and tail shape all speak to the region of origin of an amauti. The sleeves and hem on a winter amauti are trimmed with solid colour stipes which emphasize the feminine/maternal cut, and the swing of the "tail". The winter amauti is classically seen with a white cotton cover (silapak), but also in other solid colours, with an inner duffle inner layer, also trimmed, in a darker solid colour.

In the past, the longer amauti tails were decorated with talismans such as beads, shells and pierced coins, although dispproval of these talismans as "heathen" by the church reduced the frequency within which they were used. The talismans were said to attract spirits to the swinging tail and thus protect the ovaries (and fertility), located at the front, from attracting spirit attentions.

Not shown are the more modern summer amauti which have no sleeves, less insulation, and permit a child to be carried while berry picking or in other summer occupations. The summer amauti is typically made from quilted cloth in any number of patterns.

Recently an amauti beaded by Ooloosie Ashevak, the daughter-in-law of well-known Inuit artist, Kenojuak Ashevak, sold at auction for $19,200 at Waddington's after being estimated at $4,000 to $6,000. [ [http://www.waddingtons.ca/auctions/view.php?id=23april2007i&sub=session1&o=60&lot=0066 Waddington's Auction House] ]

The garment is unique in being clothing, art, childrearing tool and living tradition.

References

External links

* [http://www.wipo.int/tk/en/igc/ngo/amauti_report.pdf Inuit Women’s Traditional Knowledge Workshop on the Amauti and Intellectual Property Rights (PDF)]
* [http://www.atanarjuat.com/art/amauti.php Amauti used in the film "Atanarjuat"]
* [http://www.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M5836?Lang=1&accessnumber=M5836 Amauti from the mid-19th century at the McCord Museum]