El Ballestero

El Ballestero is a municipality in Albacete, Castile-La Mancha, Spain 68km to the west of Albacete.

It is a little town in the middle of La Mancha which grew up around a crossroads on the main road between Munera and Robledo.

The population census shows the town to have just over 560 inhabitants, but the actual permanent population is closer to 300 during the week since many people work away from home. In common with many of the small towns in La Mancha, El Ballestero suffered a large population drain in the middle of the last century. In the 1949 population census, El Ballestero had 1,858 inhabitants but for the next 30 years the population shrank - the peak emigration year being 1964 when over 500 left. The emigrants largely went to the big cities and to the Costas where opportunities for work had sprung up as a result of the beginning of the tourist industry. Over recent years, many of these abandoned homes have been sold to people from Madrid, Valencia and other large cities who have refurbished them as second homes.

The town boasts an attractive 18th century church built in the Renaissance style, 2 bars serving food, a supermarket, a pharmacy, a bread shop, a hair dresser, a public library, a bank, a school and a public Olympic sized swimming pool which is open to the public in July and August. At weekends, a music bar (Spins) opens for those who like dancing. There is a small market on Thursdays.

The main industry is farming (largely lamb, wheat and barley), but there is also a sausage factory producing high quality “embutidos” and hams.

The country round El Ballestero has large numbers of wind turbines, but in spite of this, the rolling hills are really beautiful in May when the whole countryside is covered in wild flowers, In June, the grain is harvested and the countryside takes on the appearance of a prairie. La Mancha is home to the very slow growing Juniperus sabina which is now fully protected and is beginning to make a come back. The hills are gentle and highly suitable for touring by bicycle. The roads are well maintained and provide excellent opportunities for motorcyclists. There are also many kilometres of unsurfaced public roads which are suitable for off road vehicles.

The town is on the “Ruta de Don Quijote” and nearby tourist attractions include Libisosa (the remains of a Roman Town near Lezuza), Alcaraz which is an attractive medieval town, Las Lagunas de Ruidera and the Sierra de Alcaraz in which are to be found Eagles, Vultures, Great Bustard, Wild Boar and Lynx. El Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Cortes is also worth a visit.

In addition to the fictional hero Don Quixote, Hannibal the Carthaginian general who nearly conquered Rome in the 3rd century bc also passed close to the town along a prehistoric trackway that crosses the Iberian Peninsula running from Gibraltar to France. His army which incorporated large numbers of elephants must have been quite a sight! This ancient roadway was resurfaced by the Romans; some 800metres remain in good condition to the north of the town. The "Cañada Real de Los Serranos" which forms part of the medieval network of cattle tracks across Spain and runs between Cordoba and Teruel is also to be found slightly further north and makes an attractive route for long distance walkers, since it is well maintained.

In summer, the temperature during the day is significantly hotter than that to be found in coastal towns such as Benidorm, but it is a dry heat, so that one perspires very little. Even in midsummer, however, being over 3,000 feet (1045 metres) above sea level, the nights are cool making it very attractive to people from places like the Costa Blanca and Murcia during August when the heat on the coast becomes very oppressive. During July and August, the town fills with people from the Coast and Madrid, many of whom have secondary homes here.

In the autumn, the town is also popular with those who enjoy shooting the abundant hares, rabbits and partridges that are to be found in the countryside.

In winter, the temperature can fall well below zero and it snows several times a year, although it tends to melt after a few days.

The main local fiestas are San Lorenzo (Lawrence of Rome) 10th August and San Miguel ( Michael (archangel) ) 29th September.

The nearest hotels are in El Bonillo and El Cubillo, but bed and breakfast is available. Ask in the bars!

La Virgin de la Encarnación

There is a charming tradition that takes place on Whitsunday and again on the 29th September (La Fiesta de San Miguel). Apparently in the 17th Century, a severe outbreak of plague occurred in a small village some 14km to the South of El Ballestero called Villalgordal. This epidemic caused the deaths of the majority of the population; this was possibly the Great Plague of Seville which raged between 1646 and 1652. Once it was over, the survivors decided to burn down the village on health grounds and moved to the surrounding towns. The majority came to El Ballestero and bought with them their "Virgin de la Encarnación", which is a statue of the Virgin Mary slightly smaller than life size, and placed her in the local church. Each Whitsunday, the villagers come together and carry her in triumph over the old track to the site of Villalgordal which is now merely a stony field with a small refurbished chapel in the middle of it overlooking a river. Once they get to Villalgordal, the Virgin is returned to her original home in the chapel and a mass is celebrated. The town then provides a meal for all the participants and spectators. Once this is over, the chapel is locked up and the townsfolk return home.

On the 29th September, during the Fiesta de San Miguel, there is another Mass at Villalgordal and, after another meal, she is carried back to El Ballestero being met at the entrance to the town by floats depicting local life. She is escorted back to the church whilst bonfires are lit in celebration of her return. This is followed by a firework display.

The Virgin spends the winter in the church and returns to her summer Chapel the following year and has done this for around 400 years. Other than the fingers of her right hand, which along with the hem of her dress are touched by believers to bring good luck, she is remarkably well preserved. However, she has had several changes of clothes since she first came to El Ballestero!