3B/RTR Spades

=History=

From [http://www.pagat.com/boston/spades.html the Card Games website] . Spades was invented in the United States of America in the 1930s and is played quite widely in North America. 3B/RTRSpades was invented at Bell Laboratories in Lisle Illinois in the 1980s.

Basic Game Play

Number of Players: Three to five; each game is slightly different and referred to as "the 3 handed game", "the 4 handed game" , and "the 5 handed game".

The Deck: Standard 52 card deck for three handed. Add a JOKER to make it 53 when playing 4 handed or 5 handed.

Rank of Suit: Spade always trump. Other suits have no intrinsic value.

Rank of cards:A (high), K, Q, J, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, A (low). Note: The Aces can be called high or low ONLY in the 4 and 5 handed game. With 17 cards the 3 handed game does not need the added complexity of the high/low Aces.When using the JOKER (4 and 5 handed version) it is alway the highest spade.

The Extra Card

#A special card (usually a JOKER) may be added to the 4H or 5H game to leave an extra card in the middle of the table after the deal.
#The special card is the highest spade.
#Also, the players may agree to allow aces be high or low.
##An ace should be called high or low when played.
##If not called the ace is usually considered HIGH unless it is unambiguous (i.e. zero person avoiding taking a trick or during a "LOW-BALL" and the person has already made their bid.

Object of the game:Not to lose and become the TRAY-PERSON. To accumulate the most points; points are accrued by winning at least the number of tricks bid in each hand. There is a variation where the object is not to lose - the loser having an amusing penalty.

Rules About Rules

#'Vision: In all cases the 3B/RTR Spades Rules evolved from traditional Spades in an effort to increase each players options and choices so they tend to increase the dynamics of play. This should be the guiding principal used to help determine the usefulness of rule changes.
#Rules may be changed by consensus of the players prior to play. Major changes should go through a test period.
#Some rules are unwritten and determined by convention and historical precedence. That is to say if something happens during a game and it appears to work then it is more likely to be "the rule" the next time a similar situation comes up.

Dealing

#Dealer may deal anyway he wants but should offer cut to person on the right if that person does not cut (perhaps that person is not there) after a moment the game must go on.
#Not offering does not result in a redeal.
#If there is an extra card the card can be designated at any time during the deal.
#If the extra card is picked up by accident and this is not detected until after everyone has organized their cards then a re-deal is required.
#If the missing extra card is detected just as the players are picking up their cards and have not looked at some then those cards (that have not been examined) can be mixed up and a new extra card chosen.
#No spitting permitted during the dealing of the cards.
#Cards must be shuffled in order around the table even if you sit out a hand ("5 handed game") you must shuffle and/deal your turn.
#If, by accident, someone else deals in your place the play continues as if you had dealt. The scorekeeper should keep track of who is supposed to deal.

BIDDING

#Player to the left of the dealer bids first, he may change his bid until the next player bids.
#The last bidder may change his bid until some tangible action has occurred like a card is played or the "extra" thrown back. Obviously one cannot change the bid to zero if the card has already been drawn.
#A low-ball is a total bid of less than 12 in 4 (or 5) handed and less than 15 in 3 handed.
#A Super-low-ball is a total bid of less than 11 in 4 (or 5) handed and less than 14 in 3 handed.
#When a zero is bid the "zero" gets counted as one for the purpose of designating an official low-ball zero.
#More than one person can bid ZERO so the extra card must be discarded before the next bidder bids.

PLAY A HAND

Player to the left of the dealer plays the first card of the first trick and play goes aroundclockwise. Everyone must follow suit (called the "trick-suit"). If a player cannot follow suit then they may play any other card of any other suit. After all players have played (3 or 4 cards are on the table) then the player that played the highest spade (being trump) or the highest valued card of the "trick-suit" wins the trick. The winner of the trick plays the first card in the next trick. When all the cards are gone the hand is over.

Notes

# No forced trump like Pinochle.
# No forced leads (like 2 of clubs in Hearts).

KEEPING SCORE

#The scoring system is very simple and is as follows: All tricks you bid are worth 10 points each once you have made your bid, until then they are only worth one point each. Tricks you make after your bid has been made are worth -10 points. A "zero" bid is consider to have "made his bid" at the beginning and therefore gets -10 points for each trick taken.
#However, a zero is worth "the current value of a zero" which is determined prior to the bidding as follows. Current value = initial value + absolute value of all the negative points zero bids have collected since the last zero was successful, or the beginning of the game.
##The THREE-HANDED initial value = 150 for the 2nd millennia and for the 3rd millennia (2001) goes up to 200!.
##The FOUR/FIVE-HANDED initial value = 100.
#A person may bid "all the tricks" (13 or 17) before drawing the extra card. If successful the game is over and they WIN. No point total has been decided (tricks times 35 (13*35=455 and 17*35=595)???).
#IMPERFECT DAY: The score-keeper should keep track of how well players are doing at making their bids and not making their bids. After three hands those that are 0 off their bids are on track to have a PERFECT DAY while those with negative trick-off count are having an IMPERFECT DAY. Any bid which is made on the nose will ruin an imperfect day. Any bid off by a single trick will ruin a PERFECT DAY.
##After an IMPERFECT DAY the player owes us a new deck of cards or (if cards are not needed) a suitable replacement such as PEANUTS.
##An exception to this if the previous IMPERFECT DAY person has not brought in a deck of cards yet. In these circumstances the previous IMPERFECT DAY person will gladly get your deck while they are picking up their deck since he/she has obviously been checking around town for the best decks on then planet.
##After a PERFECT DAY the player may erase a hex-digit from their line on the scoreboard.
##After a PERFECT DAY the player is awarded a TRAY-CHIT.
#At the top of the scoresheet next to the players name a player should get a STAR for each win during the gaming session (such as an evening of play or week of lunch breaks). NOTES about STARS:
##If a person wins 3 games in one week then he gets an "outside star" which is a TRAY CHIT.
##If a person wins 4 games in a row then he gets a permanent GOLD "outside star" (for the year).
##If a person wins 5 games in a row then he gets a permanent RED "outside star" (and is record in these notes as longest winning streak or second longest etc.).
##If a person overbids (3 or more) in order to cause deception and then takes ZER0 tricks then for the purpose of the "tricks-off" statistic they will get counted for 0 tricks off. This will also be the case for an early dump (as long as they only take 0 tricks).

GAME LENGTH

The games are designed top last about an hour:
#The THREE HANDED game consists of 9 hands.
#The FOUR HANDED game consists of 8 hands.
#The FIVE HANDED game consists of 9 hands.
#There are no ties. Any tie for any place results in playing "sudden death OverTime"!
#SUSPENDED GAME: An interruption for any reason (usually an Outage Pager) can result in a suspended game. The game can be continued later.
#SHORT GAME: If prior to the game the players agree to a shorter game this if permitted.
#NO TIES: If at the end of regulation there is a tie for any position play continues until there is no tie.

TRAY PERSON

This game was invented and played in a cafeteria. The day's Game(s) trays (players of each game must bring their own tray) will be collected and carried down by the TRAY-PERSON. If forgotten they will accumulate until the VIOLATOR (PREVIOUS TRAY PERSON) decides to carry them down. ALL NEW TRAY-PERSONS (even if more than one game) will not have to carry the trays until the VIOLATOR (the one that forgot) has done their duty.

To improve games skills it is always recommended that the ""TRAY PERSON"" should have some penalty appropriate for the occasion. Modify the rules below appropriately.

#This loser is designated the P-PERSON and after each hand the last place person is designated "in the tray" and recorded by the scorekeeper.
#If the person is in the tray the whole game then the person is a "wire-to-wire" TRAY-PERSON.
#If after a hand there is a tie in the tray than all the tied players are recorded. However, if one of the tied players is still in the tray after the next hand then the other players names are erased thus preserving the opportunity for a "wire-to-wire". Note, when a totally different person is the tray person after the next hand then all the old "tray people" do not get to erase their names.
#Tearing up the cards (or your lucky opponents) is not permitted, tears may be dripped on the playing surface however.
#When a tray person has a TRAY-CHIT it must be used that very day of their next loss.
#The TRAY-CHIT is used by designating an alternative tray person while in the place the game was played i.e. if the loser remembers his TRAY-CHIT on the way to the cafe he must return to the diagnostic-center (site of the game) with the trays to designate a tray person.
#Use it or lose it. The TRAY-CHIT must be used the next time the person is the TRAY-PERSON.
#If there are no trays the loser must find all the empty cans and put them in the proper recycle place and cleanup all the peanut shells.

DETAILED GAME PLAY

The game is played by hands. Each hand consists of a number of tricks(The 4 handed game contains 13 tricks i.e. 13x4=52). The player on the dealer's left makes the opening lead, and players must follow suit, if possible.If a player cannot follow suit, he may play any card.SPADES may be led at any time. You are "GACCING" if you lead spades immediately after you make your bid.The trick is won by the player who plays the highest trump, or, if no trump was played, by the player who played the highest card in the suit led. The player that wins the trick gathers the cards up into an easily identifiable pile.The number of tricks a player has won cannot be disguised, if asked each player must count out theirtricks until everyone has agreed on their "trick count".The player who wins the trick leads next. Play continues until none of the players have any cards left.

Notes:

#A card laid is a card played. This is true unless the play was an illegal play (renig) in which case they can replay. A legal play out of turn is still "a card laid".
#If two cards are played by accident the player gets to replay.
#Players should collect their tricks and keep them until they have agreed with everyone else on the number of tricks they made that hand. If you throw your tricks into the pile and there is a disagreement then you have no one to blame but yourself if you get miscounted.
#If a suspected renig has occurred the tricks may be examined.
#The very last trick pile may be examined. At the end of a trick the winner gathers the cards into a pile. When the pile is set aside it now becomes the "last pile".
#All players are required to let other players know (when asked) how many tricks that have made so far.
#Each player may claim that a play they made was really a BONEHEAD move and site themselves on the SCOREBOARD making such a BONE.
#ZERO BUDDY RULE Players that make very bad plays during a zero hunt can be credited by the rest of their team as "ZBs". The ZB evaluation should not be made during the game itself a play can be pointed out as having "ZB" potential. Later examination after the ZB has tried to defend themselves will determine whether the accusation was warranted.

TRATEGY and HINTs

Suggestions and strategy hints go here.

General

In this game the player who plays well probably will not lose despite being dealt bad cards.The key is to bid well, make your bid "on the nose" while causing other to take to many or to few tricks, and form loose partnerships with other players to gang up on the leader.

Bidding Well

* Position has a great effect on your ability to bid. When dealt a great hand and in last position it is easy to just bid your hand. However, in early position you must consider the chances of someone who will bid nil (ZERO) after you. It is better to lose a few points then to give up a ZERO.
* On a bad hand be careful if you are an early bidder that there might be a low-ball. For example in 4H or 5H analyze your hand carefully before bidding 1. In a low-ball (bid or 11 or less) you might end up with 2 or 3 or more! If you bid 2 and the bidding is up to 12 it still take 2 extra tricks to be set so there us usually no incentive for someone to try to set you.
* If you cannot fathom the correct bid and you are the last bidder you cannot be to far wrong by making the bids add up to 12 in 4H or 5H and 14 in 3H.
* If you have a strong 3 and in last or second to last position and no fours in front of you it is sometimes rewarding to bid 4 and get the extra card.

Going Zero (Nil)

3 Handed Zeros

Very rare indeed.

4 or 5 Handed Zeros

In the 4-handed or 5-handed game a player will get a hand good enough or bad enough to "bid zero" on the average once every ten hands. Some players enjoy going ZERO more often. Often, late in the game, players uncomfortably close to losing will be more aggressive towards biding zero. Anyone that attempts a ZERO on the last hand is said to be trying for a "desperation zero". In games with skilled "ZERO hunters" the success rate is under 40%.
# ZEROs with more than 4 spades are rare. A perfect split of the remaining 9 spades is 3-3-3. Even with 10 spades (with the JOKER) a player long in spades will be short in something and have the opportunity to trump.
# Watch out for being too clever by saving your Ace or 2. If someone leads a 3x into your Yx, Zx ,4x,2x and you play the 4 hoping to draw the Ace - what if the other player is VOID!
# Some terrible hands like 10♦,9♦,7♦,4♦ are also TERRIBLE ZERO HANDS!
# If you are last to bid and your have a nice ZERO EXCEPT you must discard a definite winner (like a high spade or short suited King or Queen then consider the middle card. What is the bid up to this point? Is it low or high? Does it indicate the middle card is a gift or another TRICK? For example if you have 2 Aces plus another sure winner (if you go ZERO) but the bid is only 8 or 9 maybe the hold card is another big card. On the other hand if the bid is already 11 the extra card is not as likely to hurt your chances.
# If someone bids very high (>5) in front of you then that hand is likely long in spades which means they could be "trump tight" sooner. This makes a ZERO hand out of some long suits that otherwise could not fight off a determined hunt. Still if they go after your weak suit first you could be in trouble.
# If you are not sure about your ZERO you can still bid low to force a low-ball which could be less costly.

Zero Hunting

In almost all circumstances it is best to go after the ZERO. So you might as well know what you are doing, here is some advice:
# Save the lowest card in a suit (Aces and dueces) for later to allow the short suited hunters time to become void.
# Anyone with the lead and a singleton big card should lead it unless they think they have a good chance of dumping it. This is because otherwise someone else might waste a good low card hunting the zero only to see it snatched up by the big card.
# The best ZERO hands have few spades. This has the advantage of shortening the hunt because once a player is trump tight the hunt is over. Therefore it is best to assume initially the ZERO has very few spades but might be hoping to sneak by with a single medium spade (example the 6 or even an 8) or a High/Low combination (like a Jack/Three). Because of this it is good strategy NOT to lead a high spade early.
# The SPONGE is the player to the LEFT of the person going ZERO.
## The SPONGE should save his/her low cards.
## The SPONGE should lead short suits.
# The ANTI-SPONGE is the player to the RIGHT of the person going ZERO.
## The ANTI-SPONGE should lead low into the ZERO. This causes the ZERO to cough up a low card while the other zero hunter can use up big cards.
## The ANTI-SPONGE should lead a LOW SPADE early. If the ANTI-SPONGE has lots of spades they should lead their lowest SPADE.
# If a hunter has 4 spades or more than they consider using trump to force the ZERO, if they are also long in trump, to be stuck with trump at the end.

Low Ball

When playing a LOW BALL remember usually the person stuck with the lead at the end takes the remaining tricks, thus the saying "IN and OUT, that's the best strategy". This means get in control of the hand, take your tricks, then get out of the lead and STAY OUT. However, this strategy is not always possible.
# Lead your short suit to try to get void in a suit. If the suit is led again you can discard unwanted winners!
# If you notice someone is trying the "IN and OUT" you may want to grab their last trick to force them to get back IN.
# Save your little precious cards for the last few tricks.
# For low bidders (especially a one bid) in a LOW-BALL don't even worry about taking your trick as you may be better off getting set then taking the extra.
# Lead middle cards first not your big ones. If you lead the Q you may see the 9,10,J thus making your 8 A WINNER. But by leading the 8 someone may not want to use up there little cards and may decide to take their chances with the 9,10,J.
# Once a person takes an extra trick the LOW BALL is really over. If this happens early in the hand be careful that you don't get set.
# If a high bidder takes some cheap tricks early it may indicate the LOW BALL is over (meaning the extra tricks are already accounted for).

Other

ee also

*Ace of Spades
*Spades
*Trick-taking game