Fuvammulah

Maldives Island
ImageExists=Yes
island

island=Fuvammulah
atoll=Gnaviyani Atoll
location= coord|0|16|45|S|73|24|30|E|region:MV_type:isle|display=inline,title
population=10506 (March 2007) [cite web | title=Fuvammulah | url=http://www.atolls.gov.mv/islands.asp?atoll_letter=R&islandcode=R1%20&atolldhiv=Gnaviyani ]
length=4500 m
width=1200 m
male-distance=494 km
island_chief= Ahmed Moosa
phone= [phone]
fax= [phone]

Fuvammulah or Fua Mulaku (Dhivehi: ފުވައްމުލައް) is a large single island in the Maldives. It is one of the administrative divisions of the Maldives under the name Gnaviyani Atoll or Nyaviyani Atoll. The inhabitants speak a distinctive form of the Dhivehi language, known as "Mulaku baha" which is somehow in between the forms of Dhivehi spoken in Huvadu and Addu.

The name of this island means "Island of the Areca nut", Fuvah (or "Fua") in the local language. Other places in the world like Penang in Malaysia and Guwahati in Assam, India, are also named after this nut.

Geography

The island is about 4.5 km by 1.2 km with a submerged reef (Rashikedefaro) extending for about three km in a SE direction. In the distant past Fua Mulaku was a small coral atoll whose southern end was open at a spot called Diyarehifaando and the inside of the island was a saltwater lagoon forming a natural harbour. There is a spot in the southern end known as a Kudhuheraivali (the forest of the small islet), which indicates that there was a separate little island in that area in ancient times.But long ago the channel connecting the lagoon with the ocean was closed by massive coral boulders. Thus the inside of the island is lower than its edges. In time the inner lagoon lost its saltiness and all that remains today are two small lakes, wetlands and marshy taro fields.Therefore Fua Mulaku is a small Atoll that closed and filled in with silt, like Nukutavake in the Central Pacific.

The northern lake of the island is known as "Dhadimagi-Kilhi" and the southern is known as "Bandaara-Kilhi" (lit. 'Harbour Lake' because formerly there was much talk among the locals about making a harbour by connecting it with the sea through a canal). Lacking a lagoon and being subject to violent ocean swells, Fua Mulaku island was often inaccessible to seafarers. Recently a harbor has been built at the SE tip of the island, but it is not easy to use in the often harsh weather conditions.

Fua Mulaku was traditionally divided into nine villages (clockwise from the Northern end): Dhadimago, Hōdhado, Mālegan, Dūndigan, Funādo, Miskimmago, Dhashokubai, Mādhado and Diguvāndo. Nowadays the number of villages has been reduced to eight, since the village of Dashokubai was merged with Miskimmago. Each district has a chief who is accountable to the island chief.

Dhadimago

This is the largest division of the island, located on the north-west of the island.Economically this district heavily depends upon agriculture. The adjacent fields to the Thoondu, are primarily used for agriculture and are the main agricultural fields of the island. These fields are the largest producers of watermelon in the island. Along with agriculture, white-collar workers are the primary source of income in the district, although some depend upon fishing as a source of income.Thoondu, Dhadimago Kilhi along with Gemmiskiy are few of the many places of interest, located within this district. Thoondu, a white sandy beach on the north of the island is by far the most well known feature of Dhadimago, and Fuvammulah. Hundreds of people visit this beach everyday, and this figure is much higher in special occasions like Maahefun. Dhadhimago kilhi, an enclosed fresh water lake is also found in the center of the district.

Diguvāndo

Located just after Dhadimago, this is one of the smallest districts in Fuvammulah, along with its neighbor Hōdhado. It also shares a border with Mādhado. Most residents of Diguvāndo rely heavily on white collar jobs for income. Apart from this, retail business is also a main source of income. Perhaps the most prominent feature of this district is the "Chas bin" (an area of wet land) associated with Dhadimago-Kilhi. The Wathaniya communications antenna located in the Aruffanno Mago and Mohammed Jamaaluddeen Naibu Thutthu Mago junction, is the tallest structure in the Maldives, along with the Dhiraagu Communications antenna in the island. Both structures stand 400 feet tall. Half of Madharusathu-Sheikh Mohammed Jamaludden (one of the two primary schools in the island) is located within Diguvāndo.

Hōdhado

Hōdhado is the smallest district in Fuvammulah. This district shares boarders with Dhadimago, Diguvāndo and Mādhado. Historically , many residents of Hōdhado depended on fishing as the primary source of income, although today retail business along with white collar jobs have diminished the dependency on fishing. The tradditional harbour "Bandahalu Fanno" is located within Hōdhado which explains its dependency on fishing.

Mādhado

Located in the center of the island, this district houses the strategically most important buildings in the island, including the Atoll Office, House of the Atoll Chief, Island Office, Fuvammulah Court, Hospital, Gn. Atoll Education Centre and other important government buildings. Other important buildings in this district include the MNDF establishment in Fuvammulah, Maldives Police Service building and the Dhiraagu Operations Center, Fuvammulah. The Dhiraagu communications antenna is located in Mādhado.

Mālegan

This village stretches along the island fringe facing the Northeast. Previously, the most famous anchorage of the island, Rasgefanno, is located on Mālegan's shore. One of the oldest and the biggest mosque known as Hukuru Miskih is located in this village.

Miskimmago

The former Dashokubai village was merged with Miskimmago. This village has the anchorage known as Mānere on its shores. This anchorage was used in the NE monsoon season (Iruvai).The transversal street known as Heraha Mago cuts across this village. On its southern end Miskimmago has merged with neighboring Funādo.

Funādo

This is the southernmost village of Fua Mulaku. It used to be limited by large taro marshes on its southeastern side. The origin of its name lies in some large groves of the tree known locally as "funa" (Calophyllum inophyllum) that were located on its southern end.

Dūndigan

This village lies in the Southeastern corner of the island. It has merged with Mālegan on its northern end. The newly-built harbor is located in Dūndigan.

Demography/Communication

The high rate of fertility has resulted in overpopulation. With more than 10,000 inhabitants, the availability of land for market gardening is steadily diminishing.The most updated population figure for the island is available on Ministry of Atolls Development website, which states that as of March 2007, the island had a population of 5117 women and 5389 men, giving a total of 10506. This gives a sex ratio of 0.95.

Dhiraagu is the only landline telephone communication service provider in the island, as well as in the entire country. However though, Wataniya along with Dhiraagu provides mobile communication services in the island. The Dhiraagu communications antenna, located in the premises of Dhiraagu Fuvammulah Operations Centre, is the tallest structure in the Maldives. [cite web | title=Dhiraagu history | url=http://www.dhiraagu.com.mv/about_us/history.php ] The antenna stands 400 feet (121 meters) tall. It connects Gaafu Alif Atoll, Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll and Fuvammulah to the rest of the nation.Apart from Dhiraagu, Focus Infocom Private Limited provides internet services in the island.

Transport

Formerly there were many bicycles in Fua Mulaku, an ideal mode of transportation in this flat, large island. But presently there is a great number of motorcycles. The construction of Fuvammulah Harbor has given way to a sudden boost in the number of vehicles - notably motor cycles - in the island. This, on the other hand has increased road accidents, many of them fatal. [cite news |url=http://www.aafathisnews.com.mv/di/stories/?section=6&story=4324| title=ފުވައްމުލަކުގައި ހިނގި އެކްސިޑެންޓެއްގައި ޒުވާނަކު މަރުވެއްޖެ | publisher= Aafathis New - Maldives ] . It is also to be noted that the poorly constructed roads, have indirectly contributed to road accidents. Finivaa Magu, the main road running from north to south of the island, along with other roads are not paved. The only paved road is the Mohamed Jamaaludeen Naibu Thutthu Magu. While this road is still under construction, part of it has been paved. When completed this road will be the longest road in the island running from the harbour, connecting all 8 districts.

The island currently does not have an air strip. However, under the government's program to build more airports in the country, the work is underway [cite news |url=http://www.kattelhi.com/index.php?page=article&action=readitem&item=113| title=ފަޅުން ބައެއް ނުހިއްކާ އެއާޕޯރޓްގެ ރަންވޭ ހެދޭގޮތަށް ރަންވޭގެ މިސްރާބު ބަދަލު ކުރުމަށް ކަމާބެހޭ ފަރާތްތަކާ ވާހަކަ ދައްކަން ފަށައިފި| publisher= Kattelhi ] [cite news |url=http://www.kattelhi.com/index.php?page=article&action=readitem&item=271| title=އަންނަ އަހަރުގެ ތެރޭގައި ފުވައްމުލަކު އެއާޕޯރޓް ބޭނުންކުރެވޭވަރު ކޮށްދެއްވާނެކަމަށް ފުވައްމުލަކު އެއާޕޯރޓް ޕްރޮޖެކްޓްގެ ޕްރޮޖެކްޓް މެނޭޖަރ ވިދާޅުވެއްޖެ| publisher= Kattelhi ] in Fuvammulah as well. The airport will be a domestic airport and would cost approximately US$10 Million [cite news |url=http://www.kattelhi.com/index.php?page=article&action=readitem&item=271| title=އަންނަ އަހަރުގެ ތެރޭގައި ފުވައްމުލަކު އެއާޕޯރޓް ބޭނުންކުރެވޭވަރު ކޮށްދެއްވާނެކަމަށް ފުވައްމުލަކު އެއާޕޯރޓް ޕްރޮޖެކްޓްގެ ޕްރޮޖެކްޓް މެނޭޖަރ ވިދާޅުވެއްޖެ| publisher= Kattelhi ] to complete the construction. The airport is expected to be ready for flights by the end of 2009 [cite news |url=http://www.kattelhi.com/index.php?page=article&action=readitem&item=271| title=އަންނަ އަހަރުގެ ތެރޭގައި ފުވައްމުލަކު އެއާޕޯރޓް ބޭނުންކުރެވޭވަރު ކޮށްދެއްވާނެކަމަށް ފުވައްމުލަކު އެއާޕޯރޓް ޕްރޮޖެކްޓްގެ ޕްރޮޖެކްޓް މެނޭޖަރ ވިދާޅުވެއްޖެ| publisher= Kattelhi ] .

Health Services

The first Health Centre officially started its services on May 12, 1973. Even though the centre was a fully owned by the government, it did not have its own building. Therefore the centre operated in a private house. A separate building for the Health Centre was constructed and the services began in the new building on March 24, 1988. President Maumoon Abdul Gayoom inaugurated the new building. As the population of the island increased significantly, and due to the isolation of the island, government upgraded the Health Centre to a Hospital on June 11, 2001.

Education

Fuvammulah is served by 10 schools. Consisting of 6 pre-schools, 3 primary schools and a secondary school. Gn. Atoll Education Centre, the only secondary school serving the island is the largest education centre in the island. Inaugurated on April 20, 1982, it currently serves more than 1000 students. Fuvammulaku School which was owned and operated by the citizens of the island, is one of the three primary schools in the island. Located in Dūndigan, it serves the south west part of the island. Government assumed full control over the school on March 1, 1992. Madharusaa Sheik Mohammed Jamaaluddeen, opened on November 3, 1992 serves north-west part of the island. This is also a primary school. The other primary school in the island is Hafiz Ahmed School (usually referred as Haze) opened on April 22, 2004, currently serves more than 500 students.

Law Enforcement and Security

Historically the island was and still is, considered as a peaceful island with low crime rates. However crime rate has gone up especially with regards to drugs and gang fights. A regional branch of the Maldives Police Service was established in the island on October 07, 1996 [cite web | title=Fuvahmulaku Police Station | url=http://police.gov.mv/departments.php?page=FuPStation ] . Back then the Police and the Armed Forces of the Maldives were the same, known as National Security Service. The main objective of Fuahmulaku Police Station is to maintain peace, stability and harmony across the atoll and carryout investigations into crimes and public complaints in a fair and friendly manner to deliver justice to the locals of the atoll. The station also helps other government authorities in fighting and preventing crime. The station is commanded by Station Inspector Abdulla Naseer.

The establishment of an NSS (National Security Service) also means that the armed forces of the Maldives established themselves in the island. However the police was separated from the armed forces (MNDF) in 2006. MNDF still operates in the island, but separated from police. They are mostly active in the area of Fire and Rescue, along with military duties. The Defense Institute for Training and Education, a part of MNDF occasionally conducts training programs for new recruits in the island.

Notable Events

On February 04, 2007 a fire at the Community Center burnt down the whole building. The fire started around 3:00 AM local time. The Regional Fire Services, Maldives Police Services along with locals contained the fire, almost 2 hours after the fire started. Although investigation was carried out by the Police, no reports were published. Police said that the most possible cause of the fire was an electrical short. However most locals believe that the fire was intentionally started given that President Gayyoom was scheduled to visit the island just two days after the fire.

On February 23, 2007 a fire started at the boat yard near the harbour. [cite news |url=http://www.haveeru.com.mv/beta/?page=details&id=49215&cat=search| title=Haveeru News ] The fire completely burnt 6 fiber glass dhows. 4 of these dhows were 100 feet and the remaining 2 were 40 feet long. This fire also started around 03:40 AM local time. Fire was first spotted, instantly after the fire started by a local fisherman. The Fire Service was called immediately. But since fiber glass resin is highly flammable, and there was no sprinkler system, the fire spread to the 6 dhows and the fiber glass resin barrels in the yard. It took the fire personnel, Maldives National Defence Force and local 2 hours to contain the fire. A forensics team of the Maldive Police Service did the investigation. All the dhows were insured. In an interview with media, the atoll chief said the loss is estimated to be around MRF 20 Million, although insurance companies never publicly disclosed the figures. This fire is said to be the worst fire in the history of the island.

History

Little is known about the history of Fua Mulaku. All that remains are some landmarks of the historical past. These include a much damaged Buddhist stupa known locally as "Havitta". Its actual shape has been lost because of the damage done by careless diggings to find valuable artifacts or for bungled research purposes. The ruin is about 40 feet in height and it looks like a small hill. A smaller mound, about 15 feet in height, is located near the Havitta.

An ancient local poem says: "Havitta uhe haudahau, Redin taneke hedi ihau". This poem gives us the clue about the name "Redin". Thor Heyerdahl erroneously claimed that "Redin" were people coming from somewhere else, but according to "Magieduruge" Ibrahim Didi, a learned man from this island, it was the name which the converted Maldivians called their infidel ("ghairu dīn") ancestors after the general conversion to Islam. (Thor Heyerdahl visited this island and wrote a book which is named 'Fua Mulaku' in its German edition.)

There is also the "Vasho-Veyo", an ancient circular bath with stone steps. This stone pool reveals great craftsmanship in the cutting of Porites coral stone (hirigal) by the locals.

Among the monuments of the Islamic period, the most important is "Gemmiskki", a neat compound including a coral stone mosque, an ancient graveyard and a well. It is located in the northern end of the island. "Gemmiskki" is said to be the oldest mosque in Fuvammulah.

This island is known by geographers as Fua Mulaku. This name is more widely known internationally. The origin of this name is in the ancient local poem "Rashoveshi" where the name of the island in the first line is in the vocative: "Fua Mulaku nan ivē medu adi fen heu rashē..."

The island was depopulated and resettled twice in the last thousand years owing to lethal epidemics. The last time the survivors of the epidemic went to Addu Atoll and stayed there for a few years.

One historical characteristic of this island is that only members of the Maldive Royal family or belonging to the very high nobility were exiled to Fua Mulaku. During long exiles, some nobles married local ladies. This accounts for the many families in Fua Mulaku that claim noble descent by having the title 'Dīdī' appended to their names.

During the secession of the Southern Atolls from the North (1959-1963), Fua Mulaku was part of the Suvadive Islands. Nothing eventful happened during those years except that once a boat (Elizabeth Boyer) with soldiers from Male' sent by the central government tried to disembark unsuccessfully at Rasgefanno. The island people gathered at the beach and threw stones to the soldiers. The latter fired and one man of the island died instantly. The bullet hit him in the head and his skull burst open. Two islanders who were seriously wounded by gun shots were ferried by dōni the same day, to Gan, in Addu Atoll. The British, who were stationed in Gan sent them by air to Ceylon for treatment.

Natural Phenomena

There is a beautiful broad sandy beach at the northernmost point of Fua Mulaku. It is locally known as "Thūndu" (In official Dhivehi "thundi"). Its sands are formed by white small round pebbles, which are unusually smooth and shiny.It used to be common for an annual phenomenon called "Bissaaveli" to form at the Thūndu. The Bissaaveli forms when part of the sand of the beach moves away from the shore towards the edge of the reef, thus creating a lagoon, enclosed by sand and the shore of the island. This natural event attracts hundreds - possibly thousands - of locals who love to go to watch it. When it is well-formed, the "Bissaveli" is enclosed from all sides, creating a natural shallow swimming pool where locals like to swim. However, since the construction of the Fuvammulah harbor began in 2000, this phenomenon has not occurred. It is believed that the construction of harbor somehow affected the current patterns around the island which previously caused this natural phenomenon.

Another natural phenomenon called "Kalho-Akiri" (meaning "Black Pebbles") occurs in the south-east shore of the island. This area only has black pebbles, quite unusual to the normal white coral sand beaches of the Maldives. However, the construction of a harbor has adversely affected this phenomenon as well.

Every year, towards the end of the SW monsoon season, flying fish (Hulammaha) come to the southwestern shore of "Fua Mulaku". Confused by the number of voracious tuna shoals in the water and by aggressive frigate birds hunting them from the air, the flying fish would end up flying close to the beach between a spot called Hanji Elhe and Mānere. Men, women and children like to go down to the reef to catch the flying fishes by hand in the midst of a joyful atmosphere. During that season Fua Mulaku people living away from the island would ask their relatives in the island the following question: "Hulammaha lā"?"

Notables

Many figures from Fuvammulah have had been leaders in politics, religion and in business since early times. One of the most notable figures is the all-time famous Dhivehi poet Mohammad Jamaaluddeen, also know as Naibu-Thutthu. He wrote several raivaru (Maldive couplets) books. These raivarus are still taught and examined in schools, as part of Dhivehi language module. Not only was he good at literature, but also was appointed as chief justice. The current chief justice Ustaz Mohamed Rasheed Ibrahim is also from Fuvammulah. He is also the president of Supreme Council for Islamic Affairs. Dr.Mohamed Zahir Hussain, President of College Council (a ministerial level post)and founder of the most popular daily newspaper Haveeru is also a native Fuvammulah citizen. Among other notables from the island includes the current Minister of Housing and Urban Development Mr. Ibrahim Rafeeq and the former Minister of Justice Dr Mohamed Jameel.

References

H.C.P. Bell, The Maldive Islands, An account of the physical features, History, Inhabitants, Productions and Trade. Colombo 1883, ISBN 81 206 1222 1

Xavier Romero-Frias, The Maldive Islanders, A Study of the Popular Culture of an Ancient Ocean Kingdom. Barcelona 1999, ISBN 84 7254 801 5

* [http://www.planning.gov.mv Ministry of planning and national development]
* [http://www.fuvahmulah.gov.mv Fuvahmulah Official website]