Alex­ander Burgener

Alex­ander Burgener

Alex­ander Burgener (1845, Saas Fee – 8 July 1910, near the Berglihüt­te) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many mountains and new routes in the western Alps in the silver age of alpinism.

Together with Albert Mummery, he made the first ascent of the Zmuttgrat on the Matterhorn on 3 September 1879, and of the Grands Charmoz (1880) and the Aiguille du Grépon in the Mont Blanc Massif (5 August 1881). With another British alpinist, Clinton Thomas Dent, he made the first ascent of the Lenzspitze (August 1870) and the Grand Dru (12 September 1878),

He was killed by an avalanche on 8 July 1910 near the Berglihüt­te in the Bernese Alps.

First ascents

*Lenzspitze, 1870
*Portjengrat, 1871
*Grand Dru, 1878
*Zmutt ridge of the Matterhorn, 1879
*Traverse of the Col du Lion, 1880
*Grands Charmoz, 1880
*Charpoua face of the Aiguille Verte, 1881
*Aiguille du Grépon, 1881
*Frontier ridge of Mont Maudit, 1887
*Teufelsgrat of Täschhorn, 1887

Bibliography

*Fux, A., "Alexander Burgener, König der Bergführer" Bern, Verlag Hallwag, 1961 [viz., "Alexander Burgener, King of the Mountain Guides"]
*Mummery, A. F., "My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus", Rockbuy Limited. ISBN 1-904466-09-5

Notes

External links

*HDS|42257


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